I believe nothing sticks to HDPE (?) aka trash bags and or "elmukelmu" kitchen plastic wrap.
Aka plastic builders tarp also, I think.
The thin wrap would probably stick to crevices and chemical/mechanical means would be needed to take it off, if you need t.
I made some concrete bits 10 years back.
The 7x minilathe lathe bed was a huge technical success. 9.5/10.
70x12x90 cm, 15 mm rebar, preloaded, 12 mm thick mild steel torsion box in permanent heavy tension.
I made the mild steel box, flats are on side, 120 mm tall/thick, 900 mm long, 700 mm deep.
2 sets of 3 rebar, inside, crossed, welded onto one side only of box, at end and at front, wleded at center onto heat other.
Box is finish welded. Cool.
Then heat rebar with propane torch for 10 mins or so. Now weld last 2 ends of rebar, back side on x axis and left side on z axis.
Leave propane torch on, in middle, 3 mins == till welds cool.
Take off torch.
Leave to cool.
The cooling rebar is an enormous spring, and the hole box is really tight, with very heavy (== 5-10 metric tons, by my estimate) preload.
Flip on old tabletop, with flat plastic melamine (does not stick to concrete).
Leave granite 40x40 flooplate at bottom, to be catch pan, dropped == 20 mm from center to collect swarf.
I made a hole in middle, and left a plastic tube through box, to allow liquids aka coolant/oil to leak out, == 15 mm.
Filled with concrete, vibrated with chicom hammer drill.
Turn out really well.
Lathe == 45 kg.
Box == 200 kg.
70-80% less noise, 300% more rigid.
Lathe was flat mounted, very rigidly, onto the steel box, before concrete.
I used 2 sets of flat legs, in x axis, ie 2 flats at HS, 2 at TS.
120x70x12 mm, one on top of the the other. Bolted SHCS, 6 mm.
How to get lathe to be flat.
When the lathe was flat, mounted to top legs rigidly (bolted), but top legs are floating, ie not mounted to anything.
The legs align the top plate, HS end, since its not fixed at all.
The bottom flat plate, same 120x70x12 mm (xyz) is now bolted onto the top flat (previously drill &t through both at same time).
Now, the bottom plate is bolted, perfectly flat, onto top plate.
As the 2 legs together are far apart, ie contact points are 700 mm between front end x++ and back end x--, now spot weld bottom plate only, onto frame, ie the steel box. From below, only.
Onto bottom flat, only.
The spot welding is really small, and the thermal mass is so large of legs and frame, it cannot move or twist anything.
Then add a few more spots, and unbolt top plate, and lathe.
The two flats will always get maybe 0.01 mm or better registration, one on top of another.
6 mm shcs == 240 kgf (2400 N) x 4 and easily bends the 12 mm thick plates flat one onto the other, in step one.
Spot welds cannot distort the frame, of maybe 100 metric tons breaking strength, or load carrying ability in the middle.
Finish weld bottom piece onto frame.
Then do the concrete.
Involved, some work, lots of plan.
Not hard to do.
The lathe and legs will now always bolt flat onto the legs.