Changed both front bearings.
I did read Ford focus II Haynes manual, but it was not very usefull on front wheel bearing change. Good thing is that it has bolt/nut torgue table in it, that came handy.
1: I jacked upt he car, clogged rear wheels and put extra pair of stands under front end, therefore I could work both sides at the same time.
2: After removing the wheel, first priority is drive shaft bolt 13 mm AF, but impact driver opened it nicely.
3: Then I swapped AF socet and opened schock (strut?) clamp bolt, steering ball joint nut and lasttly brake support bolts fron the frame, I went this route, because I changed the barake calibres and rotor last autum, I knew it could come of as a pacage. Older rotors have grooves and you need to open sliding bolts frist and takae the brake pads away.
Front calibers are heavy it's important to support them. Brake discs come out easy. Then removing the ABS-sensor connector is easy, you have to know where to press, someone had been too eager wiht the other side and it has very little "keep" left.
4: Ball joints came out easy, and drive shaft came out easy too. But then I found that the gas strut clamp was tight. Gas struts were changed this spring, it's just a nature of it. Manuals suggests punding it (ABS sensor is near it) ot prying it with a screw driver...jikes. I scoured M12 hex bolt and 5 mm flat steel piece to use the screw on the split mout to open it.
ABS-sensor dit not move, I doused the mount on rust removal oil and let it sit all night. Next day it still did not move. I called and he told that it is very common. and his kit has a reliev for the sensor.
5: Took the asyy to shop and he had all the tools to change and two bearigs took almost half a hour to change, most of the time spent me making guestions and him answering to them. Operation itself was more intricate that normal press work, all clamshells and other parts had to be just goldilocks size for this bearing and mounted on right places.
Other bearing - righ side was perceptively rough, I could hear typical bearing noise when I was turnig left. The other was better, but normally they have pretty much same MTBF.
6: Assembly was easy, most time was spent on torquing the stuff and drinking watter, it was hotter day than normal. Only sligh inconvenice was to torque the drive shaf. I was told NOT to lover the car down before torquing, because that would seriously harm the bearing (probably rolling elemets dislocating, rear sleeve seems to be clamped by drive shaft).
Test drive showed that the bearing noise is gone, now there is tyre noise and nothing extra. I hope I'm not getting paranoid of listening all annomalities. Let's see how long they will last. I got FAG bearings, made in Slovenia.