Wilson's Workshop Waffle

[John Rudd]

Nicly done Rob... Neat and tidy...and no mess....'Er-indoors'  would  be impressed.....

Merry xmas by the way...

[RobWilson]

Nicly done Rob... Neat and tidy...and no mess....'Er-indoors'  would  be impressed.....

Merry xmas by the way...

Aye all the best John   


Rob.

[Spurry]

Rob
Neat job you've done there. What's the secret to not breaking any of the brick teeth remaining in the wall? Did you have to cut the mortar away with disc/drill?
Looks like the original brickie made a half decent job of the bonding too. 
Pete

[RobWilson]

Hi Pete 

Apologies for the slow reply, I missed your post,     I used a 4lb club hammer, and a combination of plugging chisel and bolster chisel to remove the brickwork, I also took my time.

I decided against using an angle grinder due to the dust it would have created, it was dusty enough using a hammer and chisel.

Well, I got the brickwork and bricks cleaned up today, so hopefully,  I can get things bricked up tomorrow.   


Rob

[howsitwork?]

Rob 

that spray foam is great as an insulating layer so give yourself a bit of space to spray it in

Very impressive set up. I shall have to show SWMBO - someone has more g clamps as me 
 Not sure about the chains though, looks a bit kinky

Is that  braising hearth and extractor on the far wall? Or just highly decorative storage space ?
Have a Happy New Year mate.

Ian

[micktoon]

Hi Rob , looks like nice neat job there  .Like you say should make life a lot easier rather than walking in and out all the time. Are you planning on fitting frame and door or just having the two shos connected with the opening? I was just wondering about one half being the grinding , forging area and the other cleaner machining area.
  Your making good progress overall though 

 Cheers Mick

[Brass_Machine]

Looking good Rob! 

You have given me something else to aspire to!

Eric

[RobWilson]

Cheers Lads 

Hi Ian, aye the workshop is a bit of a **** tip at the moment    with gear stacked everywhere but needs must.

Well, that's the walls built.




Just need some sticky stuff to fill the gap between wall and concrete panel.



The floor has been made good.



And I whacked in a new power cable to the workshop, it now comes into the rear of an isolator switch then from that to a junction box where the supply gets split.



Now I can isolate the workshop from within the shop instead of having to turn the power off in the house. 


Cheers Rob. 

[krv3000]

brill

[SwarfnStuff]

Great modification Rob.
   What about expanding foam goo for the gaps? Can be trimmed flush with a knife?
Or as I have seen industrially, stuff foam rubber / plastic into the gap depressed about 12mm or so then plonking mastic on the surface. Either would seem to work from sitting here in front of my PC in OZ.

John B

[RobWilson]

Cheers Bob 


Hi John, 

  For some reason, I never get good results with expanding foam. I like your idea of stuffing some foam rubber into the gap first,     I have had to order mastic as all the local big box stores just sell silicon sealant.


Rob.

[doubleboost]

You can not beat the old methods
Proper mastic sealer
Shop is really taking shape now
John

[Manxmodder]

Cheers Bob 


Hi John, 

  For some reason, I never get good results with expanding foam. I like your idea of stuffing some foam rubber into the gap first,     I have had to order mastic as all the local big box stores just sell silicon sealant.


Rob.

Trick with successful foam application is to use a proper foam gun and not the crap that's sold with a plastic nozzle on the can.

The guns have a finely adjustable needle valve making it easy to get exactly the right delivery flow rate for the task in hand.

Like this one,but may be cheaper alternatives on ebay....OZ.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-foam-applicator-gun/28483?kpid=28483&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=Cj0KEQiAy53DBRCo4en29Zvcla0BEiQAVIDcc9jKTbttFbn9zMQHz5BoGdO5cWatwPbwy4Nr6HwY7J0aAiB38P8HAQ

[Spurry]

I think the trick with the foam, is not to try and fill a large empty void, like a gap between two walls.
If you can only leave one side open and form a back to the gap (getting poetic now) for example, by closing off with some polystyrene sheet, the foam has three sides to stick to, and it seems to work so much better.
Pete

[Manxmodder]

Agree,Pete. That is definitely the way to go with any gap wider than 25mm,narrower gaps can easily be bridged by using a side to side arc movement very much like welding a stack of dimes pattern.

I should also mention that excess foam that expands outside the edge of the workpiece can be pressed back into the void if you judge the setting point just right. Just takes a bit of practice and a disposable rubber glove.

OZ.

[howsitwork?]

Rob

I'd follow the crowd and use expanding foam with a decent foam gun. The metal ones ( about 10 ) are worth the money as you can clean out with solvent and re use. I have no regrets about buying one. WEAR GLOVES though or else write off the sweatshirt and jeans by wiping hands on them ( or is that just me??? )

Really like the idea of power isolation in shop for the big stuff. I assume that's to cut off the 3 phase?

Coming along really well.

Happy New Year.

Ian

[Manxmodder]

Tell you a funny tale that happened to me earlier this year when using foam.

In an old lighthouse generator room and there I am using expanding fire grade foam to fill a breakthrough void in the partition wall, between engine room and store room next door, where cables had been run through.

Anyway,I've spent a couple of minutes slowly filling the void and stood back to let it expand and set.

Next thing a workmate opens the door leading to outside,in rushes a gust of wind,pressurises the room and ball of unset sticky foam is blasted out of the hole and across the storeroom next door and right into my mates open toolbox.

He laughed at me only until he realised where it had landed.

OZ.

[micktoon]

Made me laugh Oz, I can just picture the scene, could have been worse if it landed in his hair 
cheers Mick 👍

[krv3000]

ar the method for the cheep stuff use bin bags put the bag in the cavity put the nozzle in the top of the bag then fill   

[RobWilson]

Rob
Really like the idea of power isolation in shop for the big stuff. I assume that's to cut off the 3 phase?


Ian

Hi Ian,  The Isolator cuts the 240v supply from the house, the phase converter will take a supply from that. 



Cheers for all the gap filling advice chaps  , I will call into screwfix later in the week and grab one of those guns and a tin of foam, in the past, I just used the cans with the straw attached .


All the best Lads 


Rob


PS if it all goes tits up I will be blaming OZ 

[RobWilson]

Evening Chaps, 


I nipped out to Screwfix this morning and picked up some spray foam.



And it works a charm, allot better, just as you lads said it would. 



Very controllable and allot less mess, actually no mess at all, I also picked up a can of cleaner, it was only a couple of quid.



Do any of you lads have any good tips for trimming back the foam? 


I also made good above the doorway, new socket, airline that sort of thing.



And the milling cutter cabinet has a new home, across the old doorway.




Cheers, Rob.

[awemawson]

Trim foam back with an angle grinder with a thin cutting disk.

[philf]

Do any of you lads have any good tips for trimming back the foam? 

Hi Rob,

Looking good! 

I use a snap-off knife with the blade fully extended.

By the way - I've just made some space to get the CNC Hobbymat I got from you out of the garage and into the workshop! It might still be a long time before it's cutting metal though!

Cheers.

Phil.

[chipenter]

A hacksaw blade works well just be gentle .

[doubleboost]

A Kitchen "bread Knife" is perfect
Just dont get caught
How did you seal the 2 roofs
John