Author Topic: 626 mill riser block  (Read 9005 times)

Offline John Rudd

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626 mill riser block
« on: November 10, 2016, 11:49:16 AM »
The 6" round bar arrived today for the riser upgrade on my mill...... :dremel:

It is some weight I can tell you!

Hopefully I can fit it in the lathe but how I'm going to hold it is yet to be decided.....! :coffee:

Meanwhile here's a picture of the lump! :clap:

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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2016, 11:51:35 AM »
The sawn face looks a good starting point for a datum....I s'pose I could put it on the mill table and fly cut the other side to ensure that is parallel, or I could drill and tap it and mount it on a face plate in the lathe......

If you were doing this what would your choice be?
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2016, 11:53:30 AM »
 :clap: :clap:  Thats a canny wee project John  :dremel: 


Quote
If you were doing this what would your choice be?

I would true it up in the 4 jaw  :dremel:


Rob

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2016, 10:31:04 AM »
Well had to go to Gateshead this weekend to help out with the granbairns.....so no further forward...

However it has given me some thinking time about how I should machine the block.... :scratch:

Looking at my 4j chuck, its max reach is around 6"....so the bar will probably just fit....so I'm thnking of buying a bigger chuck ....this one.. 282230982967 But I'll also need a backplate to match...

Onwards and upwards.... :dremel:
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2016, 11:43:58 AM »
John as you say they are big lumps and in a chuck, not holding on by much.

First one I did I did it in a big 3 jaw but still had it come loose, loose, not fly out, a couple of times.
Did all the machining and then drilled the 3 holes and the penny dropped.

Next one I did I faced both ends carefully then marked out and drilled from both ends 3 holes in each at 8.5mm and tapped them M10.

Fastened it on the face plate by the M10 screws with 4 dogs on the outside to act as "jaws" Never moved and then did all the machining at a far higher speed than the first one.
The M10's get opened out to M12 clearance or tapped M12 depending on your design.
John Stevenson

Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2016, 12:30:17 PM »
 :scratch:  just use the tail stock centre and centre drill each end of the work  ! it cant come loose or out with a centre holding the un-chucked  end .  :thumbup:


Rob




 

Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2016, 01:23:33 PM »
:scratch:  just use the tail stock centre and centre drill each end of the work  ! it cant come loose or out with a centre holding the un-chucked  end .  :thumbup:


Rob

Hard to bore a hole down the centre with the tailstock in the way.  :scratch:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2016, 01:54:09 PM »
I was thinking of facing both ends, centre drilling and then centre on the mill and doing any boring in there....ah, but there's a spigot to machine. That can be machined in the lathe with tailstock support....

So thats my plan, unless anyone has any better ideas/suggestions?

 
Oooops, just read John's previous post re faceplate mounting....yup that was summat else to consider...thanks for the idea. :thumbup: That sounds like a better way and cheaper than having to buy another chuck/backplate...
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2016, 03:04:01 PM »
Why would a 626 mill require a bored out riser, is that not just creating  un-necessary work   :scratch: 


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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2016, 03:08:39 PM »
Thick walled tube is better than solid any day of the week, Young's modulus and at only 6" diameter it helps to have all the stiffness you can get when you are sticking it another 6" into fresh air.
John Stevenson

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #10 on: November 12, 2016, 03:12:04 PM »
From the drawing I've seen on the yahoo groups website, it looks like it just has a recess and spigot...so looks like its fabbed from solid, ergo I'd see no reason to poke a hole in the middle unnecessarily....besides, I dont have a drill long enough to go right through... :Doh:
Ahem,
John posted while I was typing....
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #11 on: November 12, 2016, 03:59:37 PM »
I have probably done about 6 of these now from various suppliers and I don't think any two have had the same spigot diameters as each other.
Now some were very early, possibly Taiwanese machines but a big difference on some. might pay you to take a quick measure first.

Just for interest, the Bridgy which is a far heaver built machine, [ did I post that ? ] is able to lift itself and fit the riser block.



This is a machine that has the slotting head on the back as well, my idea was to try it and if it was struggling, to ease the rear with a porta power ram and extension byt just raising the bed by hand , it managed fine.

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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #12 on: November 12, 2016, 04:01:09 PM »
Damn, wondered what had happened to that red shirt, no wonder I couldn't find it...........................
John Stevenson

Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #13 on: November 12, 2016, 07:26:17 PM »
Nice riser John - WHERE did that come from  :lol:
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Offline malbenbut

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #14 on: November 13, 2016, 06:38:13 AM »
I have about 10ft off 5.5/8"x 3/8" wall thickness tubing  that may be suitable for riser block.
I was going to use for a chimney for my stove.
Open to offers.
In Northumberland

MBB

Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2016, 08:40:16 AM »
And I've got an 'offcut' 5.5 metres long of 5.5" x 5 mm wall tube left over from making the new roller for my flail mower that might perform service as a riser if anyone 'down south' needs a slice cutting off.
Andrew Mawson
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #16 on: November 15, 2016, 11:03:24 AM »
So now back home and in the shop.....

I swapped out the 3 jaw for the 4 jaw indi chuck on my lathe....

The 160 mm chuck is more than man enough for holding this big piece of round bar... :thumbup:

So tried clocking it up, the outer surface is a bit rough, I managed to get it within 5 thou at the free end.....but the  chuck end....ooh man its well out of true....

So do I leave as is and true up the diameter as far as I can get to the chuck end or should I clock it at the chuck end and then machine the diameter?

Never done this before so any advice appreciated.... :bow: :bow:
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Offline philf

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #17 on: November 15, 2016, 11:28:11 AM »
So now back home and in the shop.....

I swapped out the 3 jaw for the 4 jaw indi chuck on my lathe....

The 160 mm chuck is more than man enough for holding this big piece of round bar... :thumbup:

So tried clocking it up, the outer surface is a bit rough, I managed to get it within 5 thou at the free end.....but the  chuck end....ooh man its well out of true....

So do I leave as is and true up the diameter as far as I can get to the chuck end or should I clock it at the chuck end and then machine the diameter?

Never done this before so any advice appreciated.... :bow: :bow:

John,

Unless you've lots of material to spare on the diameter I'd get the bar fairly parallel to the axis of your lathe and then carefully face  off and take a minimal skim off the od just enough to clean up and clear the depth of the chuck jaws. I'd then turn it end over end so the nicely faced off end fits snugly against the chuck and the chuck jaws will have a nice perpendicular surface to clamp on. If your piece of bar is sawn it's quite possible the ends may be quite a bit off-square.

Phil.
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Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #18 on: November 15, 2016, 12:13:02 PM »
John, I know that you say your chuck is more than man enough to hold it, but I'd be nervous with that amount of overhang with such a weight  :bugeye:

I reckon your earlier idea of tapping and bolting from the rear of a face plate would be safer - it only needs a tiny dig in with your boring operation to totally spoil your day  :scratch:
Andrew Mawson
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Offline Pete W.

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #19 on: November 15, 2016, 12:37:59 PM »
If it was me, I'd choose the squarest end and carefully explore for the centre, say with a centre square.  Having centre-popped it, I'd chock the piece on the table of the drill-press so that the flanks were at right angles to the table surface.  If you've got a big enough angle-plate, stand it on end on the drill-press table and clamp the piece into its 'vee' with a big G-clamp.  Centre drill to enlarge the centre-pop.  Then I'd transfer the piece to the lathe with the other end in the chuck and the tail-stock supporting the centred end, using a half-centre if you have one.  Hopefully, the end in the chuck will be square enough for the chuck jaws to get a good grip - even if the piece only touches the face of the chuck in one place.  Face off, leaving the smallest possible spigot in the middle, hopefully small enough to go through the hole in the chuck or face-plate.  Marking-blue the end and mark out the holes to attach to the face-plate, remove from the lathe and drill and tap the holes.  (If you're feeling really fussy, file off the spigot first.)  Transfer to the face-plate and proceed according to John S' method.  Having got the piece securely mounted on the face-plate, there might be some merit in facing off the now outer end and putting in a set of tapped holes in that end too.
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #20 on: November 15, 2016, 12:39:23 PM »
Andrew,
I share your concerns too....its a bit daunting with around 20kg of metal spinning around even at 100rpm.....
The backplate idea is a non-starter.... The holes in my backplate are such that it wont accomodate bolts 120 degrees apart.....

So further thinking required in an approach.....
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Offline Pete W.

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #21 on: November 15, 2016, 12:42:50 PM »
Andrew,
I share your concerns too....its a bit daunting with around 20kg of metal spinning around even at 100rpm.....
The backplate idea is a non-starter.... The holes in my backplate are such that it wont accomodate bolts 120 degrees apart.....

So further thinking required in an approach.....

Couldn't you make an adaptor plate? 
Best regards,

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Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #22 on: November 15, 2016, 12:56:13 PM »
Dare I suggest that you drill your face plate  :scratch:
Andrew Mawson
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #23 on: November 15, 2016, 01:13:06 PM »
Food for thought guys....thanks... :thumbup:
I've knocked off for the nite...back to work  tomorrow..so more shop time over the coming days.. :lol:
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Offline Spurry

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #24 on: November 15, 2016, 02:36:50 PM »
John
Of all things you have to do with that chunk, the o/d is the least important. When I made one for my little machine, I just got it running sort-of true by eye, then centre drilled the outer end. Held it in place with a running centre, then faced off the outer end as much as possible, with a little skim up the outside to sit in the jaws.
Flip it over in the chuck, and repeat.
On the second facing op, the piece should hopefully be sitting at the rear of the jaws, so depending how much out, the second facing cut is, depends whether you risk removing the supporting centre.
Stick it in the mill, drill/tap to correct pcd.
As you cannot fit it on the faceplate directly, go with the adapter plate suggestion.
This should get you in the ball-park of two parallel faces.....the world is then your oyster.  :wave:
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Offline seadog

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2016, 04:21:28 PM »
I'd echo the concerns about overhang. However, going back to your centreing problem, you should centre at the chuck then move to the far end and adjust with a copper mallet until it runs true there, then back the chuck and adjust  etc. etc., until it is running true along its length.

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #26 on: November 18, 2016, 09:50:54 AM »
Well after the first cut across the free face, I took the block out of the lathe and put it on a flat face....
The mill table....I ran a clock across the face and theres was less than 2 thou across in various directions, so I guess thats flat enough for re chucking in the lathe....
I also put my 6" square across each face to see how tapered the block was along its length...sure enough the taper was as much as it was running out at the opposite end of the chuck...
So back in the chuck, faced end first, reclocked it to within 2 thou at the chuck end and proceeded to turn to diameter, enough just to true it up, faced the other end and its looking good   :thumbup:

Need to think about what the next step is.... :coffee:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #27 on: November 18, 2016, 09:57:54 AM »
So the drawing calls for some holes to be drilled tapped or clear holes...at either end of the block
I'm thinking it best to remove the workpiece from the chuck and mark out where the holes need to be before moving on to boring the recess and forming the spigot at the other end...
Does this approach make sense?
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2016, 10:04:32 AM »
Well no advice offered so I went alone as opposed to going it alone...... :)

As the lump was now well centred in the lathe, I decided to plod on with the spigot....
Now a well known machinist of these parts and film producer of Sunday Night Cap said to me to check the diameters as the drawing may be incorrect.....

So following the venerable sages's advice, I took to removing the topworks off the mill.....sure enough, the spigot on my machine was bigger....cut once measure twice eh? You cant stick it back on....( unless you can weld like Rob or DB....     :bow: :bow: ... Mine looks like pigeon ****...)
Anyway after several measurements, I settled on 3.307 or 84 mm thereabouts....Imperial is a bit more precise...

After a swarf making session this morning and over lunch I got this far......
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #29 on: November 19, 2016, 10:14:30 AM »
Trouble is if I remove it from the lathe and it doesn't fit because its too tight, I'll have it to cock I mean clock up again..... :Doh:
Measure, measure, measure.....I convinced myself that the diameter was going to be ok.....I measured with my trusty caliper, 3.307 inches, measured the spigot on the mill head again, yep 3.307 inches....its got to be right....?  Ok, checked with some outside calipers, hmmm...feels good....

So on removing from the chuck, I inched up the mill head, moved it aside and offered up the block....
Oohhh....its gonna be tight...

Well it fit like a glove, if anything its a tad tight, I think there may be some high spots inside the socket,where the spigot fits...well, its in now. I'm happy with the result. All the measuring and careful machining paid off....
I just need to remove it now to tidy up the chucked end, machine a socket in it and add all the tapped or clear holes and the nut pockets.....
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #30 on: November 19, 2016, 12:03:27 PM »
 :clap: Looking good John  :thumbup:

Will you be able to reach the top of the draw bar with the riser block in place ?

Rob

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #31 on: November 19, 2016, 01:10:31 PM »
Dunno Rob....might need a step up.....
.....and the other thing I forgot about......can I open the lid to change the belts around?...... :Doh:

I may have to relocate the mill to gain access....but all is not lost... :scratch:

I know the orig plan called for a block of steel 5-3/4 long....I bought a 5" piece, so I've only lost 3/4" no big deal really.

Hopefully do some more tomorrow..l :dremel:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #32 on: November 20, 2016, 10:21:52 AM »
Well the lump came out off the mill relatively easier than anticipated.....of course I was ably assisted by the delectable "Er-indoors" .....so a big thank you for lending a hand... :thumbup:

So, 4 jaw or 3 jaw....thinking I could just relocate the block in the jaws, I was hoping to grip it on its outside diameter, but neither chuck was having it....the freshly machined spigot was fouling the jaws further in the check centre. This meant gripping the od with very litle...Not enough..not good, bad things might happen... :Doh:

So I stuck with the 4 jaw, turned the jaws around and gripped on the spigot.....some strips from a Strongbow can provided the softness to prevent marking rhe surface, and the liquid contents provided much needed refrehment....( suffice to say, I do not use machinery under the influence!
Now with block in chuck, time to redial it.....my clock gauge has divisions at 0.0001 so it is quite accurate, but within a thou is near enough for farmwork.....ready for skimming off the previously chucked end....
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2016, 10:24:16 AM »
And after a few minutes of turning and polishing we have this.....ready for boring the socket for the mill head to locate into.....

Now, do I machine the socket in situ held in the 4 jaw or use a boring head in the mill?

Answers on the back of a fag packet please or alternative suggestions.....,
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #34 on: November 21, 2016, 01:47:24 PM »
More done tonight....
Got the socket end machined and without issue.....  :clap:

Bored out to 3.310 -ish to give a bit of clearance for the matching spigot on the mill head so I'm not wrestling with it on re-assembly....
So far so good.....
Just have to mark out the holes and the nut pockets need machining..... :dremel:
« Last Edit: November 21, 2016, 05:12:17 PM by John Rudd »
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #35 on: November 21, 2016, 04:02:03 PM »
Looking good John  :thumbup:

Just dont drop it on your foot  :lol:

Rob 

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #36 on: November 22, 2016, 10:26:41 AM »
After cleaning down the lathe ans bagging up all the swarf....("Er-indoors " complains if I just sweep and put it all in the bin..... :Doh: ) time to turn attention to marking out for the 3 new bolt holes in the top.....

Now for anyone contemplating making one of these, dont use the dimensions on the drawing from the Yahoo groups website....they are not suited to the Chester 626 mill...

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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #37 on: November 22, 2016, 10:32:38 AM »
 :update:

In order to make the 3 bolt holes on a pcd, I measured many times......the drawing said 112 mm....but as I said previously, dont take the drawing as gospel.....

I ended up making a cardboard donut to slip over the spigot on the mill head to determine the approx location and then used some male intuition.....( we are allowed aren't we.....)

I reckoned on a pcd of 116mm and thats what I went with....

Spent the rest of the morning laboriously marking out, drilling, tapping and cutting.....I bought some 70mm ht bolts for the top end, even they were too long....Nonetheless better than being too short!

Here's the latest shots....
« Last Edit: November 22, 2016, 11:04:12 AM by John Rudd »
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #38 on: November 22, 2016, 10:36:58 AM »
So next task is to mill the nut pockets and drill the clearance holes on a 116mm pcd in the base and that should be about it.....

Oh, for Rob's benefit, here's me posing to show I can still reach the drawbar...... :lol: :lol:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #39 on: November 22, 2016, 11:03:42 AM »
The nut pockets look quite deep....if I mill them with an end mill, there's quite a bit of metal to remove... :dremel:

They really only need to be deep enough un the middle to accomodate the nut and slip a spanner on....So I'm thinking of a radiussed pocket.....dont think a boring bar or head will do it, if I still had my Ajax mill I could have done it with a side and face mill.... :Doh:


Thoughts are using a side and face mill on an arbor or a thick slit saw...... :scratch: I could mill out most using a ripper end mill first and clean up with a slit saw?

What do you guys think?
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #40 on: November 22, 2016, 11:54:04 AM »


Oh, for Rob's benefit, here's me posing to show I can still reach the drawbar...... :lol: :lol:

 :lol: :lol: :lol: nice  one John  :clap: :clap:


Rob

Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #41 on: November 22, 2016, 12:19:38 PM »
Nice job  :thumbup:

I suspect that it's quite a relief to get that big chunk machined and back in place  :clap:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #42 on: November 22, 2016, 12:25:12 PM »
Thanks Andrew...... :beer:
But its not over yet.....

I'll be a happy camper when all the machining is done....well, I have 3 more holes to drill...what could go wrong?

Onwards and upwards.... :dremel:
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Offline bertie_bassett

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #43 on: November 22, 2016, 01:06:41 PM »
looks good to me!

i should really do ne for my 626 at some point. (got to find it under the pile of junk first)
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Offline Spurry

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #44 on: November 22, 2016, 01:46:44 PM »
John
When I machined mine, I used a rotary table for the pockets...the trickiest part of the whole job. The pockets have to be quite tall, relatively speaking, so the nut will go onto the stud.
Seem to recollect that I used a 13mm ball ended slot drill to finish the pocket.
Pete

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #45 on: November 23, 2016, 07:20:35 AM »
So got the block mounted on the mill, easier than I thought! The bolt holes were in the perfect place for bolting to my angle plate......
All line up ready for first cuttings....
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #46 on: November 23, 2016, 07:23:10 AM »
Feckin'idjit...

I've milled the first pocket all wrong!!, :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: and  :Doh:

A weeks work ruined.....

I'm going to take up knitting or summat else......


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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #47 on: November 23, 2016, 07:25:56 AM »
I've ordered another billet....72 worth.....

I guess I can take some comfort from the fact that I've machined it so far and it fits and I have the correct dimensions and have a planned machining sequence.....


Off for a very large drink lie down in a darkened room..... :doh:
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Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #48 on: November 23, 2016, 07:41:25 AM »
Bad luck John, put it down to experience, and add the original one to the 'come in handy' pile
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 08:19:56 AM by awemawson »
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Offline mattinker

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #49 on: November 23, 2016, 07:51:09 AM »
Having got that far, I'd be very inclined to have a go at welding it up and re-machining it!

Regards, Matthew.l

Offline Spurry

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #50 on: November 23, 2016, 07:52:06 AM »
John
If it was me, I'd just turn the end off and start again, putting up with the smaller height you would end up with, unless of course you really, really need the extra inch.
Pete

Offline dawesy

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #51 on: November 23, 2016, 07:53:00 AM »
Damn. That's bad news. Was all going so well too
Still he has made no mistakes has never made anything.
Are you going to mark the centre line on the riser so that you can used the angle measure on the side of the head


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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #52 on: November 23, 2016, 07:54:07 AM »
Sorry, what is wrong with it ?
John Stevenson

Offline dawesy

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #53 on: November 23, 2016, 07:58:07 AM »
Damn. That's bad news. Was all going so well too
Still he has made no mistakes has never made anything.
Are you going to mark the centre line on the riser so that you can used the angle measure on the side of the head


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Offline paulmo101

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #54 on: November 23, 2016, 08:24:25 AM »
It was all going so well and looked great.  Better luck next time.  What was the problem? Thanks for the posts as it is a project I have considered for my 626 but chickened out of for now, my excuse is I think I would need a step for belt changes LOL

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #55 on: November 23, 2016, 09:15:19 AM »
Sorry, what is wrong with it ?

John,
In stead of making a pocket for the nut recess, I machine a slot right across..... :Doh:


Fortunately it isnt too deep....I pressed on realising the error. I'll use some metal filler to give the efect of a pocket...( I'll bodge with some stuff to make it look good.... :lol:)...

I s'pose it could be welded and I remachine it but there's nowhere round here that could do it... :dremel:

Anyways when its all painted nice who will know??

Just completed the second pocket and its looking pretty good.... Coffee time.. :coffee:
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #56 on: November 23, 2016, 09:21:01 AM »
Sorry, what is wrong with it ?

John,
In stead of making a pocket for the nut recess, I machine a slot right across..... :Doh:



Looks OK to me and it's a solid block so you wont break thru.

Go for it.

If you were closer I'd weld it for you.
Anyone else having a go at one of these I have about 8' of 6" bar and 12' of 5" bar I'll sell cheap but don't ask me to pack and ship it.

Collection only.
John Stevenson

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #57 on: November 23, 2016, 11:56:48 AM »
John,
If I were closer I'd be asking a favour....being the gent you  are, thanks any way... :beer:

So I pressed on with the job regardless of my major faux pas....( I think thats french for fook up.. Or summat like ) any way it all ended good....apart from adding a bit of cosmetic repair( filling up where I made the error..) its good to go....
I'm glad this isnt a paying job because of the length of time its taken....I think I underestimated just how much time it had taken....
Well here's some more photos, hope you like... :D
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #58 on: November 23, 2016, 03:44:15 PM »
 :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Nice one John  :thumbup:



Rob

Offline tom osselton

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #59 on: November 23, 2016, 04:12:52 PM »
No use beating yourself up you have still done good!
Why not make a little shelf or holder that bolts in your faux pas? Just might work!

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #60 on: November 23, 2016, 05:57:17 PM »
Hi John,

1st... We all make mistakes. I have made quite a few on the snowblower engine swap, so don't sweet it.

2nd, it looks primarily cosmetic to me. IF I was in your shoes... Yes, being a perfectionist might make it hard to let it go... What I would do. Machine up a couple of plugs that would fit inside that would sit a bit proud. JB weld em in (I can't weld!!) then take some light cuts on the lathe to true them up. A fresh coat of paint... no one will know the difference!

Eric
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #61 on: November 24, 2016, 06:10:25 AM »
 :update:  Its done!   :update:

I found a tin of that Isopon Metallic filler on a shelf....(forgot I had, it was disguised by some blue paint on its exterior...)
So after some rubbing,filling some more filling and rubbing I ended up with this.......
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #62 on: November 24, 2016, 06:12:05 AM »
A quick rub down with some thinners and we are ready for paint.....

Primer coat applied and now waiting for it to harden off....

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Offline appletree

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #63 on: November 24, 2016, 07:35:32 AM »
Looking good! All that fuss about nothing, well done. Are you able to cancel the order for the new piece of metal?

Phil

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #64 on: November 24, 2016, 08:05:17 AM »
Phil,
Thanks for the comments....I feel better already.....
Replacement billet was cancelled without issue thankfully....saved me another 72...
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Offline Spurry

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #65 on: November 24, 2016, 08:24:21 AM »
Looking good John. Well done.  :thumbup:
Pete

Offline Pete W.

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #66 on: November 24, 2016, 08:54:20 AM »
Hi there, John,

I'm pleased you were able to find a salvage scheme. :clap:   :clap:   :clap: 
Best regards,

Pete W.

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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #67 on: November 24, 2016, 10:36:47 AM »
 :proj:

After another full days graft at it....here it is all finished with a coat of paint....

I couldn't get an exact match....so went for what I thought was closest...

Doesnt look too bad, better than leaving it 'naked' to have the elements attack it....

Overall I have around 420mm (16") between spindle and table with Z wound down....
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Offline John Stevenson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #68 on: November 24, 2016, 10:41:24 AM »
John,
Out of interest what was the spigot dimension on yours, read back thru but didn't spot it.
John Stevenson

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #69 on: November 24, 2016, 10:46:21 AM »
John,
Out of interest what was the spigot dimension on yours, read back thru but didn't spot it.

John,
I made it 3.307 inches, or probably 84mm. i think there may be room for skimming another couple of thou off...now its all mounted it feels a bit tight...

The pcd for the bolts is 116 mm....I determined that from various measurments but to confirm it, made a cardboard template to fit over the machines spigot after adding a film of grease and pressing against the face....if you know what I mean....
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Offline bertie_bassett

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #70 on: November 26, 2016, 02:24:54 PM »
looks like it came out well in the end. :thumbup:

i guess the next project will be a longer screw for the knee??
a competent engineer uses the tools and knowledge available, to get a challenging job done.

 An incompetent "engineer" tells his boss that the existing equipment "can't do the job" and to get another machine

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #71 on: November 26, 2016, 05:05:35 PM »
Looks good John. Job well done!

Eric
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Offline ieezitin

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #72 on: November 26, 2016, 06:15:20 PM »
All that now you have to raise all your work up... nice work mate.

Anthony.
If you cant fix it, get another hobby.