Author Topic: 626 mill riser block  (Read 3860 times)

Offline seadog

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #25 on: November 15, 2016, 04:21:28 PM »
I'd echo the concerns about overhang. However, going back to your centreing problem, you should centre at the chuck then move to the far end and adjust with a copper mallet until it runs true there, then back the chuck and adjust  etc. etc., until it is running true along its length.

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #26 on: November 18, 2016, 09:50:54 AM »
Well after the first cut across the free face, I took the block out of the lathe and put it on a flat face....
The mill table....I ran a clock across the face and theres was less than 2 thou across in various directions, so I guess thats flat enough for re chucking in the lathe....
I also put my 6" square across each face to see how tapered the block was along its length...sure enough the taper was as much as it was running out at the opposite end of the chuck...
So back in the chuck, faced end first, reclocked it to within 2 thou at the chuck end and proceeded to turn to diameter, enough just to true it up, faced the other end and its looking good   :thumbup:

Need to think about what the next step is.... :coffee:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #27 on: November 18, 2016, 09:57:54 AM »
So the drawing calls for some holes to be drilled tapped or clear holes...at either end of the block
I'm thinking it best to remove the workpiece from the chuck and mark out where the holes need to be before moving on to boring the recess and forming the spigot at the other end...
Does this approach make sense?
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #28 on: November 19, 2016, 10:04:32 AM »
Well no advice offered so I went alone as opposed to going it alone...... :)

As the lump was now well centred in the lathe, I decided to plod on with the spigot....
Now a well known machinist of these parts and film producer of Sunday Night Cap said to me to check the diameters as the drawing may be incorrect.....

So following the venerable sages's advice, I took to removing the topworks off the mill.....sure enough, the spigot on my machine was bigger....cut once measure twice eh? You cant stick it back on....( unless you can weld like Rob or DB....     :bow: :bow: ... Mine looks like pigeon ****...)
Anyway after several measurements, I settled on 3.307 or 84 mm thereabouts....Imperial is a bit more precise...

After a swarf making session this morning and over lunch I got this far......
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #29 on: November 19, 2016, 10:14:30 AM »
Trouble is if I remove it from the lathe and it doesn't fit because its too tight, I'll have it to cock I mean clock up again..... :Doh:
Measure, measure, measure.....I convinced myself that the diameter was going to be ok.....I measured with my trusty caliper, 3.307 inches, measured the spigot on the mill head again, yep 3.307 inches....its got to be right....?  Ok, checked with some outside calipers, hmmm...feels good....

So on removing from the chuck, I inched up the mill head, moved it aside and offered up the block....
Oohhh....its gonna be tight...

Well it fit like a glove, if anything its a tad tight, I think there may be some high spots inside the socket,where the spigot fits...well, its in now. I'm happy with the result. All the measuring and careful machining paid off....
I just need to remove it now to tidy up the chucked end, machine a socket in it and add all the tapped or clear holes and the nut pockets.....
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #30 on: November 19, 2016, 12:03:27 PM »
 :clap: Looking good John  :thumbup:

Will you be able to reach the top of the draw bar with the riser block in place ?

Rob

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #31 on: November 19, 2016, 01:10:31 PM »
Dunno Rob....might need a step up.....
.....and the other thing I forgot about......can I open the lid to change the belts around?...... :Doh:

I may have to relocate the mill to gain access....but all is not lost... :scratch:

I know the orig plan called for a block of steel 5-3/4 long....I bought a 5" piece, so I've only lost 3/4" no big deal really.

Hopefully do some more tomorrow..l :dremel:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #32 on: November 20, 2016, 10:21:52 AM »
Well the lump came out off the mill relatively easier than anticipated.....of course I was ably assisted by the delectable "Er-indoors" .....so a big thank you for lending a hand... :thumbup:

So, 4 jaw or 3 jaw....thinking I could just relocate the block in the jaws, I was hoping to grip it on its outside diameter, but neither chuck was having it....the freshly machined spigot was fouling the jaws further in the check centre. This meant gripping the od with very litle...Not enough..not good, bad things might happen... :Doh:

So I stuck with the 4 jaw, turned the jaws around and gripped on the spigot.....some strips from a Strongbow can provided the softness to prevent marking rhe surface, and the liquid contents provided much needed refrehment....( suffice to say, I do not use machinery under the influence!
Now with block in chuck, time to redial it.....my clock gauge has divisions at 0.0001 so it is quite accurate, but within a thou is near enough for farmwork.....ready for skimming off the previously chucked end....
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2016, 10:24:16 AM »
And after a few minutes of turning and polishing we have this.....ready for boring the socket for the mill head to locate into.....

Now, do I machine the socket in situ held in the 4 jaw or use a boring head in the mill?

Answers on the back of a fag packet please or alternative suggestions.....,
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #34 on: November 21, 2016, 01:47:24 PM »
More done tonight....
Got the socket end machined and without issue.....  :clap:

Bored out to 3.310 -ish to give a bit of clearance for the matching spigot on the mill head so I'm not wrestling with it on re-assembly....
So far so good.....
Just have to mark out the holes and the nut pockets need machining..... :dremel:
« Last Edit: November 21, 2016, 05:12:17 PM by John Rudd »
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #35 on: November 21, 2016, 04:02:03 PM »
Looking good John  :thumbup:

Just dont drop it on your foot  :lol:

Rob 

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #36 on: November 22, 2016, 10:26:41 AM »
After cleaning down the lathe ans bagging up all the swarf....("Er-indoors " complains if I just sweep and put it all in the bin..... :Doh: ) time to turn attention to marking out for the 3 new bolt holes in the top.....

Now for anyone contemplating making one of these, dont use the dimensions on the drawing from the Yahoo groups website....they are not suited to the Chester 626 mill...

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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #37 on: November 22, 2016, 10:32:38 AM »
 :update:

In order to make the 3 bolt holes on a pcd, I measured many times......the drawing said 112 mm....but as I said previously, dont take the drawing as gospel.....

I ended up making a cardboard donut to slip over the spigot on the mill head to determine the approx location and then used some male intuition.....( we are allowed aren't we.....)

I reckoned on a pcd of 116mm and thats what I went with....

Spent the rest of the morning laboriously marking out, drilling, tapping and cutting.....I bought some 70mm ht bolts for the top end, even they were too long....Nonetheless better than being too short!

Here's the latest shots....
« Last Edit: November 22, 2016, 11:04:12 AM by John Rudd »
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #38 on: November 22, 2016, 10:36:58 AM »
So next task is to mill the nut pockets and drill the clearance holes on a 116mm pcd in the base and that should be about it.....

Oh, for Rob's benefit, here's me posing to show I can still reach the drawbar...... :lol: :lol:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #39 on: November 22, 2016, 11:03:42 AM »
The nut pockets look quite deep....if I mill them with an end mill, there's quite a bit of metal to remove... :dremel:

They really only need to be deep enough un the middle to accomodate the nut and slip a spanner on....So I'm thinking of a radiussed pocket.....dont think a boring bar or head will do it, if I still had my Ajax mill I could have done it with a side and face mill.... :Doh:


Thoughts are using a side and face mill on an arbor or a thick slit saw...... :scratch: I could mill out most using a ripper end mill first and clean up with a slit saw?

What do you guys think?
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Offline RobWilson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #40 on: November 22, 2016, 11:54:04 AM »


Oh, for Rob's benefit, here's me posing to show I can still reach the drawbar...... :lol: :lol:

 :lol: :lol: :lol: nice  one John  :clap: :clap:


Rob

Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #41 on: November 22, 2016, 12:19:38 PM »
Nice job  :thumbup:

I suspect that it's quite a relief to get that big chunk machined and back in place  :clap:
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #42 on: November 22, 2016, 12:25:12 PM »
Thanks Andrew...... :beer:
But its not over yet.....

I'll be a happy camper when all the machining is done....well, I have 3 more holes to drill...what could go wrong?

Onwards and upwards.... :dremel:
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Offline bertie_bassett

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #43 on: November 22, 2016, 01:06:41 PM »
looks good to me!

i should really do ne for my 626 at some point. (got to find it under the pile of junk first)
a competent engineer uses the tools and knowledge available, to get a challenging job done.

 An incompetent "engineer" tells his boss that the existing equipment "can't do the job" and to get another machine

Offline Spurry

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #44 on: November 22, 2016, 01:46:44 PM »
John
When I machined mine, I used a rotary table for the pockets...the trickiest part of the whole job. The pockets have to be quite tall, relatively speaking, so the nut will go onto the stud.
Seem to recollect that I used a 13mm ball ended slot drill to finish the pocket.
Pete

Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #45 on: November 23, 2016, 07:20:35 AM »
So got the block mounted on the mill, easier than I thought! The bolt holes were in the perfect place for bolting to my angle plate......
All line up ready for first cuttings....
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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #46 on: November 23, 2016, 07:23:10 AM »
Feckin'idjit...

I've milled the first pocket all wrong!!, :Doh: :Doh: :Doh: and  :Doh:

A weeks work ruined.....

I'm going to take up knitting or summat else......


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Offline John Rudd

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #47 on: November 23, 2016, 07:25:56 AM »
I've ordered another billet....72 worth.....

I guess I can take some comfort from the fact that I've machined it so far and it fits and I have the correct dimensions and have a planned machining sequence.....


Off for a very large drink lie down in a darkened room..... :doh:
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Offline awemawson

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #48 on: November 23, 2016, 07:41:25 AM »
Bad luck John, put it down to experience, and add the original one to the 'come in handy' pile
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 08:19:56 AM by awemawson »
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Offline mattinker

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Re: 626 mill riser block
« Reply #49 on: November 23, 2016, 07:51:09 AM »
Having got that far, I'd be very inclined to have a go at welding it up and re-machining it!

Regards, Matthew.l