Author Topic: rotary table D1-4 reciever (Read 29379 times)

DeereGuy · « **on:** June 20, 2009, 02:45:41 PM »

My shop is a mess finally and I have swarf all over the mill and the lathe

My goal is to turn this chuck of 5.25 x 2 of aluminum:

into something like this that will be mounted to my rotary table:

I have wanted to do this for a while now and all the postings that have been going on about rotary table adapters have spurred on my want to do one.

Currently I am at this point.

Once I get everything sorted out and proper dimensions figured out I will post the complete build with the plans as best as I can come up with them. So far I have had a few minor screw ups but nothing I wasn't able to over come. I won't be back in the shop today anymore because SWMBO has other more pressing things for me to do

Tomorrow however is fathers day and I have been notified that it is mine to do as I see fit.

Cheers all and I will keep you posted as I make progress

Bob

Note edited to modify the title to reflect it is for the rotary table.

Bernd · « **Reply #1 on:** June 20, 2009, 03:10:05 PM »

Bob,

Interesting project.

Aluminum?

Aren't you afraid of putting bumbs and dings in it when changing chucks or is it going to be protected from such abuse?

Bernd

sbwhart · « **Reply #2 on:** June 20, 2009, 04:58:23 PM »

Hi Bob

I've found my RT/chuck mounting invaluable, for quick sets, you'll find it well worth the effort, look forward to seeing your set up develop.

Stew

DeereGuy · « **Reply #3 on:** June 21, 2009, 02:33:26 PM »

Quote from: Bernd on June 20, 2009, 03:10:05 PM

Bob,

Interesting project.

Aluminum?

Aren't you afraid of putting bumbs and dings in it when changing chucks or is it going to be protected from such abuse?

Bernb

Bernd, yes aluminum, I had this on hand from a real deal I got on 4 - 8" pieces I picked up a couple of years ago. Money's tight as it is for most of us so this is what I chose, right now I am calling it a prototype but it may very well come out totally usable if I don't cock it up some how. Plus it is light and makes moving the rotary table with it mounted and the 5C collet chuck possible for me w/o a crane of some type. The Bison 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck's that I have will be another story. I have already dropped it and have taken care of the first ding anxiety

DeereGuy · « **Reply #4 on:** June 21, 2009, 02:44:34 PM »

Quote from: sbwhart on June 20, 2009, 04:58:23 PM

Hi Bob

I've found my RT/chuck mounting invaluable, for quick sets, you'll find it well worth the effort, look forward to seeing your set up develop.

Stew

Hi Stew, I have some minor tweaking going on today to make the pieces fit together nicely. At this point I don't see it being done today because as soon as the sun passes far enough to move it off the south side of the house I will be doing some sanding on the south side of the cabin to prepare it for another coat of maintenance stain.

It may not appear that bad in the picture but after 4 years of southern exposure I am getting some failure of the original stain. It's not to bad of a job really this time around. The original coat took me almost two summers to do the whole house.

Bernd · « **Reply #5 on:** June 21, 2009, 02:46:41 PM »

Sounds like a plan then Bob. I can understand the finances being tight.

Ya, why didn't think of that, "prototype". Have to see if it'll work or not so why use expensive material the first time.

Bernd

sbwhart · « **Reply #6 on:** June 21, 2009, 03:15:30 PM »

Wow Bob

That looks like a lot wood to stain, don't let Bogs see it, as it'll give him nightmares you know what he thinks of wood
£$%^&*.

Nice looking house by the way.

Stew

DeereGuy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 28, 2009, 10:20:45 PM »

Well I had a few hours in the shop today and got 1 pin fitted so I have a few more pics for everyone. I decided I would make a hex head and use a socket to tighten the pins.

Here is a shot of the pin inserted into the reciever and turned so that the chuck can be mounted

Here is a shot of the pin rotated 90 degrees.

Once I get all thee pins finished I will tighten my 5c chuck down and measure the run out. I am a little worried that the 90 degrees will not be enough to lock it and may have to reduce the dia of the pin where the interferance fit is.

I will keep you all posted on my progress as I get time. The logs are now ready to stain but we have 3 days of rain coming so I may get a few hours over the next 3 evenings to work on it a bit more.

sbwhart · « **Reply #8 on:** June 29, 2009, 01:04:20 AM »

Progressing well Bob

Stew

DeereGuy · « **Reply #9 on:** July 03, 2009, 05:11:22 PM »

Tomorrow is a holiday here in the States and the company I work for gives this off to us. Since it fell on a weekend day they gave us today off.

Since it is my birthday and we have a threat of rain I didn't do any staining on the cabin today....instead I made some great progress in the shop on the reciever.

I was having some trouble getting things concentric. After bluing up the register I found that when I tightened up the receiver pins the chuck would be pulled slightly off center and would not let the chuck sit tightly on the face.

Ok...so back to the mill, find center again on open up the holes about .010. PERFECT!!!!.... Before doing this I noticed that my 5C collet chuck was the only chuck that would fit fairly well in the holes. The rest would not drop down low enough because of binding. What I found after checking the bores for the pins on the lathe reciever that they were made for a very sloppy fit. Now I have just slightly over .001 TIR with it mounted in the 4 jaw and when I finally fitted it to the rotary table I have the same results with a .75 dia rod held in the 5C collet chuck. I am more than pleased with this as I was shooting for no more than .003.

Here is the 5C collet chuck mounted to the reciever. It measured .001 + TIR here.

Here it is mounted on the rotary table with the same TIR.

Here are the other D1-4 chucks and face plate mounted on the reciever:

Obviously the height will be a problem for some, luckily I still have plenty of room left and now I can mount any size d1-4 chuck to the rotary table.

I still need to make the detents for the pins so that it is easier to locate where the pins are set to remove the chuck, I have been kicking around the design of the pins quit a bit with circlip via skype and I will be cutting a grove all the way around the pins. Spot drill where I want the detent, then use a metal ball and spring with a grub screw to push the ball into the detent.

Crap-O-Cad drawings to follow.

Darren · « **Reply #10 on:** July 03, 2009, 05:22:37 PM »

I can see that little lot becoming very useful...nicely done.....

sbwhart · « **Reply #11 on:** July 04, 2009, 01:03:39 AM »

Nice Job Bob

Thats given you plenty of options for mounting work on the RT

Stew

bogstandard · « **Reply #12 on:** July 04, 2009, 02:57:27 AM »

A very nice conclusion to your project Bob.

As you most probably know, I am a great believer in adaptable tooling, especially if it extends your repertoire by being able to mount it between machines.

A real nice job.

John

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #13 on:** July 04, 2009, 03:39:38 AM »

VERY nicely done Bob!

David D

Brass_Machine · « **Reply #14 on:** July 20, 2009, 11:51:48 AM »

Dunno how I missed this one. I have to do something similar... Lots of good ideas here.

Eric

DeereGuy · « **Reply #15 on:** July 20, 2009, 12:04:36 PM »

Thanks Eric a lot of R&D went into this one figuring out all of the dimensions.

NickG · « **Reply #16 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:29:34 AM »

Bob,

That is really good, be it's dead useful.

If I get a rotary table I would need a threaded adaptor for my lathe chuck, not sure how i'd go about making that.

Stew, how does yours mount?

Cheers,

Nick

sbwhart · « **Reply #17 on:** July 21, 2009, 04:55:34 AM »

Nick

Its held on witha 74mm register and four bolts through the back same as my lathe, the adaptor plate is held to the RT with a M2 taper with a cap screw up the back.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1330.0

Hope this helps

Stew

DeereGuy · « **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2010, 09:48:42 AM »

All,

I have the plans I am giving out to the forum members. Just PM me and I will send you the set. All I ask is that you use them for personal use only.

DeereGuy · « **Reply #19 on:** January 08, 2011, 10:20:10 AM »

Quote from: Bernd on June 20, 2009, 03:10:05 PM

Bob,

Interesting project.

Aluminum?

Aren't you afraid of putting bumbs and dings in it when changing chucks or is it going to be protected from such abuse?

Bernb

I know this is an old post but I thought I would show what this part would look like after being in continual use for the last year and a half. Weston Bye anodized this for me in August of 2009 and this is what it looks like today. Surprising what protection a good anodizing will give.

This was the first version and below is what I have just finished. This one takes the OEM camlock pins that can be ordered from various suppliers when the campin wears.

Bernd · « **Reply #20 on:** January 09, 2011, 11:44:26 AM »

Ok, I'm convinced. (I don't think you've done any work with them

) They still look great.

Bernd

ieezitin · « **Reply #21 on:** January 09, 2011, 12:50:29 PM »

What a great mod.

Great looking piece of equipment and shows quite nicely the benefits of anodizing. And by what I have read here it’s not that unachievable for most of us in our hobby shops.

Bob thank you for showing us. Anthony.

DeereGuy · « **Reply #22 on:** January 09, 2011, 03:07:54 PM »

Bernd thanks!

Anthony,
I have changed a lot of things since I first tried this myself last June. I am now using a CC powersupply, commercial black dye, and nickle acetate for sealing. The black part was anodized at 12 ASF and the tank temp was 75 - 78 degrees. My tank mix is 1:1 Napa Battery acid to distilled water (5 gallons total).

NickG · « **Reply #23 on:** January 09, 2011, 04:29:37 PM »

Bob, quite right anodising is a great surface protection. We use it at work for components that have to be stored / used in extreme conditions. We put stuff through salt spray tests and it holds up really well.
Nice work there, Nick

DeereGuy · « **Reply #24 on:** January 09, 2011, 04:45:29 PM »

Thanks Nick,
It's been a real learning experience. I am thinking about adding a small chiller for the 5 gallon tank. Now that I am shooting for 12 to 15 ASF it will be harder to keep the tank cool this summer.

RotarySMP · « **Reply #25 on:** August 26, 2015, 03:03:32 PM »

Bit of thread necrophilia here, but there are not many on the Internet who have actually made a Camlock nose.

The ISO Standards tolerances on the taper are increadibly tight, as the chucks should touch on the taper and the flange. Did you do anything special like grinding, to hit those tolerance? How did you measure the taper? Did you just set the compound with the sine bar, and turn till you had a good fit on an existing chuck?

I am told that the only way to accurately measure that tolerance would be with an air gauge, but that just causes a new chicken egg problem.

Regards
Mark

philf · « **Reply #26 on:** August 26, 2015, 04:10:38 PM »

Hi Mark,

I needed to regrind the taper on my Boxford 1130 which has a D1-3 camlock nose.

After much thought I came up with this gauge to get it right.

The gauge is a lump of steel with a plain hole bored to about the mean diameter of the taper of the nose. There are three micrometer heads at 120 degrees which read zero when the spindle faces are level with surface of the gauge. I measured the bore diameter accurately and then calculated how much the three micrometer spindles should project such that when the bore was pushed on the taper the faces of the spindles would touch the flat surface of the nose.

I then tried it on a CVA toolroom lathe with the same taper and, much to my surprise, it worked perfectly and the calculated projections were perfect.

On my own lathe I set the topslide to the taper with a 1 micron dial gauge and cleaned up the taper. (The taper was really OK but the flat face had damage and you have to remove a tiny amount from the taper which equates to quite a bit off the flat surface.) I then ground just enough to clean up the flat surface with a flared cup wheel and tried the gauge and adjusted the micrometers until all three gave the same reading whilst the bore was in contact with the taper. (This takes quite a bit of trial and error but doesn't take that long.) This told me how much more to take off the flat surface.

It's certainly good enough for my purposes now.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers.

Phil.

RotarySMP · « **Reply #27 on:** August 27, 2015, 06:13:59 AM »

The taper is so short, how did you dial it in? Was it enough to run the DTI up taper?

I have a Boley 4L, and am not a fan of the threaded nose. I was thinking of making a D1-3 adaptor (hopefully with a taper lock Fitting to clam it on the spindle alignment feature, for turning in reverse). I will get a couple of Commercial D1-3 flanges.

Mark

philf · « **Reply #28 on:** August 27, 2015, 07:05:41 AM »

Hi Mark,

I can't remember if I used a 1 micron or 0.5 micron dial gauge and set the top slide such that I got zero movement on the gauge.

You could of course use a sine bar.

Phil

RotarySMP · « **Reply #29 on:** August 27, 2015, 12:50:26 PM »

Thanks for the info Phil. I Need to get a few other Projects moving alon before I do this one, but will surely get back to you with questions once I start.

Mark

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Author Topic: rotary table D1-4 reciever (Read 29379 times)

bogstandard