'Dickson ' type toolholders

[Spurry]

I have recently completed 5 of these additional toolholders, but drew the line at trying to case-harden them. Another one is earmarked for a threading-tool holder as shown by the Bog Master.

Pete

[Bernd]

Very nice machining job. Very clean and crisp looking.

Bernd

[Brass_Machine]

Yup. That is some mighty fine looking work!

Eric

[doubleboost]

Really nice clean looking job

[SemiSkilled]

Spurry, have you got any set up pictures? I have a T2 post  ( on a Colchester master)  and would like to make some holders.

Thanks

Lee.

[Spurry]

Thanks for the kind comments, but I do feel like an amateur having seen some of the magnificent threads on this forum.

Lee
When I started making the holders, (some time ago) I did not bother too much with pictures. Sorry. As the two angled cuts were the most critical I decided to start with those, but had to rough out the rear central slot first. The main toolblock holder was stripped of its cam mechanism - this helped enormously. The angles could then be checked for fit as machining progressed.

The toolholder blocks were just rested in a small V block in the vice.

The toolholders are unhardened, as I could not find anywhere local to do it, so it remains to be seen how long they last.....I wish I had a surface grinder too.

Pete

[SemiSkilled]

Thanks for those, I'll pull my finger out and make a start.

I was thinking of hardening these ( case hardening ) I dropped on an electric muffle furnace at a car boot for £25  nowt wrong with it just a red label that read, "mains lead damaged" (bit of a gloat, sorry)

I have a little tool & cutter grinder which will do a bit of surface grinding but its not really a S/G

Lee.

[Davo J]

Spurry, have you got any set up pictures? I have a T2 post  ( on a Colchester master)  and would like to make some holders.

Thanks

Lee.

Hi Lee,
Dave (not me)has had this up for a few years now and should give you some ideas.
Like Pete, he set it up at 45 deg but he cut both of his at the same time.
One day I will get around to making mine.
http://www.rulezman.com/workshop/ws/algra.htm
http://www.rulezman.com/workshop/ws/parting%20off%20holder.htm

Dave

[Jonny]

Lovely work from both of you, i need about twenty of them T2 for Dickson and dont have the time to make.

One thing i cant recall seeing any one do is make an integral threaded handle to replace the top nut and separate spanner.
First thing i did on buying a chinese plus converting and making two T slot tool post to save unthreading changing fixed toolposts over.
Only got these
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/14577361.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/56398906.jpg
Chinese 250-200 series http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/311844089.jpg

[Spurry]

Jonny

I clock my toolpost block square and only move this block as a very last resort, so think a large handle would be in the way, especially as I always leave the toolholder locking 'spanner' in place.

Of the main tools used, I carefully adjust those for depth so the cross-slide readings are the same. It saves a lot of time when near-enough is good-enough.

Pete

[ven]

I made a set of 8 from mild steel many years ago, and I can't imagine going back to the old methods.  I never thought of hardening them but, if you wipe the mating surfaces every time before fitting them, they should last for ever.  One word of advice: removing the outer skin from the lump of bright drawn mild steel, then cutting a large slot across it for the tool to fit into, will cause it to distort slightly, so rough them out all over before finally finishing to size.  This doesn't matter too much, of course, except for the two angled surfaces.
If I had the larger machinery to made another dozen, I would.

[Davo J]

Lovely work from both of you, i need about twenty of them T2 for Dickson and dont have the time to make.

One thing i cant recall seeing any one do is make an integral threaded handle to replace the top nut and separate spanner.
First thing i did on buying a chinese plus converting and making two T slot tool post to save unthreading changing fixed toolposts over.
Only got these
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/14577361.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/56398906.jpg
Chinese 250-200 series http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL15/728921/1252422/311844089.jpg

Thats not me, it's another Dave.
I made the fixed handle on top years ago, but found it seemed to get in the way for the tool post spanner to swing and some jobs. Also I still needed a spanner for the tool holder anyway, so I made up a hex nut the same size as the tool holder cams, so only the one spanner is needed. I find it better as one spanner does everthing, and I can leave the spanner on anyone of them or take it off if it's in the way.


Dave

[BillTodd]

Lee
When I started making the holders, (some time ago) I did not bother too much with pictures. Sorry. As the two angled cuts were the most critical I decided to start with those, but had to rough out the rear central slot first. The main toolblock holder was stripped of its cam mechanism - this helped enormously. The angles could then be checked for fit as machining progressed.

Interesting, I cut the Vs first so I could get a rough centre from a line scribed on the face

The toolholder blocks were just rested in a small V block in the vice.

I found I could cut both Vs in one set up by stepping across and down by the appropriate amount (ISTR this was 34mm across & down for the small myford sized blocks) The depth of the T slot is the only critical thing as I remember.

The toolholders are unhardened, as I could not find anywhere local to do it, so it remains to be seen how long they last.....I wish I had a surface grinder too.

I wouldn't bother to harden them, it wont change the strength at all and there is no real wear mechanism so they should last until destroyed in a crash ;)


BTW nice crisp machining
Bill

[Mike Cole]

Hi
I think that you will find that the chinese made ones are not hardened. I bought a couple last year and found they needed a bit of fettlling to fit.
Mike