Author Topic: Scott flame licker build  (Read 86649 times)

Offline dickda1

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #275 on: April 13, 2011, 10:47:58 PM »
Long time lurker - long time reader of Bogstandard's adventures.  Thank you for the usual wonderful pictures and the inspired machining.  Your attention to detail is amazing. :clap:
« Last Edit: April 13, 2011, 10:51:08 PM by dickda1 »
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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #276 on: April 14, 2011, 12:12:01 AM »
Dick,

Thanks for the nice comments.

I think you will find, when I am in bling mode, things get done in a very haphazard way. I will pick up one piece, do a bit, then put it down and do something on another piece, eventually things start to look right together.

It isn't all shine, I tend to place emphasis on the shape, and worry about how I am going to get it cleaned up and polished later.

A little recess or chamfer in the right place can change the whole look of a part.

There are a couple of people much better at it than me that spring to mind.

Divided He-ad (Ralph), is a master of curves and how to put them together in the right order, and Cedge (Steve) for super fine detailing.


Bogs
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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #277 on: April 14, 2011, 10:14:33 PM »
I just thought I had better prove that this bit would come up rather well before everyone forgot what it originally looked like.

I spent a couple of easy hours this evening, just cleaning up and putting the curved face on top of the pulley. I have still yet to put the half round groove in, plus the threaded stud.


This is the main bit you will see.




Plus the bit you won't.




It is such a shame to cover up most of the finger work with a coat of paint, but hey! that is what it is all about.

Eight spokes, just like the big one, but in a different configuration.

It hasn't come out too bad seeing it started off as a lump of unwanted scrap iron. All you need to do is look at that old bit of metal, and visualise the beauty within.

It is up to you then to get that piece out of it. Material cost, about 5 pence.


Bogs
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Offline Dean W

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #278 on: April 15, 2011, 01:53:27 AM »
It's beautiful, Bogs.  Certainly the silk purse from a sow's ear.
The old rough sash weight found a new life in your shop. 
Dean W.

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Offline Divided he ad

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #279 on: April 15, 2011, 06:19:27 AM »
I actually tried to post this yesterday. But with the current site issues I'm copy and pasting every post I make into my note pad and then saving it.... Cunning eh? Well, not really but it meant I didn't have to re-write it all :thumbup:

---------------------------------------------

Quote
There are a couple of people much better at it than me that spring to mind.

I'm not in that category John... Yeah I can spin up a few curves. But I can't seem to finish anything of late and I can't get 'em running right when I do!  
Got to be a full package including a good performer to be classed as better surely? Let alone much better!?



Cedge on the other hand...I fully agree.  Some stunning works in the last few years  :jaw:  (where's he hiding anywho?)


Anyway... Have you forgotten to look on the sideboard?The mighty mill engine is awesome and the finger engine screams BLING!!!   :thumbup:  




Nice work on the take off pulley too....
Quote
There are a couple of people much better at it than me that spring to mind.
Simply not having it!   :wave:







Ralph.




(nearly forgot to save this!  :loco: )
« Last Edit: April 15, 2011, 06:21:05 AM by Divided he ad »
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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #280 on: April 18, 2011, 05:42:44 PM »
I just had to get this bit out of the way, so instead of waiting to stand my RT upright, I did it with the spindexer.


Having set up the spindexer in the vice, I first positioned the cutter half way across the face, where I had cut a relief into it. Then with the cutter tip a few thou lower than centre, I just fed the cutter in from the side and gently hand turned the spindexer in an anticlockwise direction, so that the tip of the cutter was doing all the work.




I just kept feeding the cutter in a bit, then doing a revolution, then feed a bit more, until I got to the depth I wanted.




After tapping out the centre spindle and fitting in a bit of stainless studding, I could use the pulley to fix the whole flywheel shaft together. Everything ran nice and sweet and true.

This shot shows how the spring belt will work, hopefully the other end will be going to a small generator.




Just a bit more work on the flywheel and these two bits will be ready for paint.



Bogs
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Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline Divided he ad

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #281 on: April 18, 2011, 06:09:40 PM »
I do like that method of putting the round groove into pulleys etc.

It's the one you showed me when I was making the pipe bender. It works a treat and so very much simpler that grinding up form tools for the lathe. I like simple!   :thumbup:




Another interesting way to fix a flywheel too. It's all going into the memory banks  :)







Ralph.
I know what I know and need to know more!!!

Offline Dean W

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #282 on: April 18, 2011, 07:16:22 PM »
Neat way to cut the radiused groove, John.  I hope I remember that one!
Dean W.

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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #283 on: April 18, 2011, 07:49:37 PM »
It's a very easy way to do it Dean.

Saves having to grind up radiused cutters for use on the lathe, all you need is a milling cutter of whatever sized groove you want. As Ralph said, when making a bending machine, it is a simple job to make up the bending rollers to fit any diameter pipe, and they fit the pipe perfectly.


John
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #284 on: April 18, 2011, 08:49:04 PM »
Very nicely done, John.  I tried a piece of sash weight once and gave it up as a bad job, but I think I'll take a different approach with one next time, I liked how that pulley turned out and the technique with the groove as well.  I'm looking forward to seeing it turning the gennie.   :beer:  Cheers, Jack

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #285 on: April 18, 2011, 09:30:12 PM »
Jack,

It seems that US sash weights aren't made to the high specs of UK made ones. I just cut off 3" to 4" of the end opposite to the cast in loop, and that gets rid of all the dross, the rest is then perfectly useable. 12" to 13" of 1 & 3/8" diameter of fine grain cast iron.

I have forgotten the number of little engines and parts I have made from them, and I have enough in stash to last the rest of my natural, so the saying, 'I'm OK Jack' comes into play.


John
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Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline cfellows

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #286 on: April 19, 2011, 09:40:19 AM »
Hey John, that's a neat trick using the the end mill to cut the groove in the pulley.  By the way, is that an ER Collet on the spin indexer?  Did you make it?

Chuck

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #287 on: April 19, 2011, 10:13:48 AM »
Thanks Chuck.

Actually, the ER collet system on a spindexer is in fact an idea by our own John Stevenson, and they are retailed by Arc Euro.

About half way down the page is the spindexer, but if you go to the very bottom, you will see a 5c to ER32 adapter, I am sure you could knock one up out of a blank 5c arbor, like I am doing at the moment with other types of fittings. At this moment, I am part way thru making a 5c to R8.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/5C-Fixtures


John


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Offline doubletop

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #288 on: April 27, 2011, 05:36:31 AM »
John

Another great "how to' build from you. I've not been following up to now as I've been doing my own stuff that has kept me away from forums to some degree. Looking forward to its imminent completion.

One minor point; way back I did see reference to "this is going to be imperial measurements and BA threads" then I noticed some 3mm studs crept in (or didn't they in the end).........

regards

Pete

Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #289 on: April 27, 2011, 11:14:44 AM »
Hi John, I wanted to say how much I enjoyed the whole log, but the particular parts that were learning lessons.  That deal with the end mill and the pulley is great, I made a tubing bender for motorcycle frames, went through three different iterations, making "pulleys" for each, the hard way, and since I will be making another version, having learned from this last, I will be making another "pulley" with an inch groove, but the groove will be more accurate, and far easier to machine, using your method.  I also questioned the thinning of the burner cover, and have made a similar burner, only out of 3/8ths copper pipe, for the smaller engine, and used a .046 drill behind a #1 center drill, drilling some .310 deep, and when I cut it off, faced it, and got it all cleaned up, the back side looked dead on target, and there are obvious signs of drill wandering in the .300 thousandths of drilling, so I will be making the next one much thinner, your instincts being dead on right.  Not enough wandering to make it not work I expect, but I'd rather the pattern be accurate on the burner face, and I expect the length of the holes will have some effect on the direction of the gases coming out to burn.  I will be testing it out shortly, and will post the results on the log I started just for gathering ideas and brain storming on these engines.  I'm hoping that will stay around a while, and let more people start with a simple engine, and not have them, as you point out, sitting on shelves not running, when it generally is a pile of niggling details together stopping it, and not just one big error.  I don't have a ready made orfice so I will be trying out my own set of small jet drills, and hopefully will find one that works well with the pipe size and the nineteen holes in the burner head.  Again, a very well done and easily followed build log that has been very informative.  Wish I could still smoke :poke: :lol: I miss it a lot, even twenty years later.   :beer: Cheers, Jack

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #290 on: April 27, 2011, 01:42:41 PM »
Pete & Jack,

Little would you believe, this post is far from finished with. I am actually in the finishing stage of components, and no one wants to see picture of little bits of filing that have taken a couple of hours to do. The flywheel alone has had hours of hand filing put into it already, just to get the spokes something like I want them to be, and I am a very slow worker, only being able to do so much at any one time, hence my dropping onto other machining things, once my hands get tired and useless from filing.

As and when I finish a major piece, I can show a piccy or two.

Personal things have now taken over again, and I most probably won't be as active after another couple of weeks. But it will get finished.


John
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Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #291 on: April 30, 2011, 03:07:11 AM »
I found a little bit of info last night that might come in handy for those who want to try the gas route.

In the UK we have standard jet sizes, and the one I used in the burner on this one was #5.

Number 3 which has a 0.15mm dia jet bore

Number 5 which has a 0.2mm dia jet bore

Number 8 which has a 0.25mm dia jet bore

Number 12 which has a 0.3mm dia jet bore

Number 16 which has a 0.35mm dia jet bore

All have 1BA thread on holders.


Bogs
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Rob.Wilson

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #292 on: April 30, 2011, 03:16:37 AM »
Hi John


Were do /did  you get that springy stuff you using as a belt  :dremel: :)


Rob

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #293 on: April 30, 2011, 07:31:19 AM »
Rob,

That 4mm spring drive belt used to be used on some old envelope making machines I used to work on. I used to take home the offcuts from the ends when we fitted new ones.

Mamod use 3mm size for drive belting

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=mamod+drive+belt&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I suppose I could let you have a couple of feet of the 4mm stuff if you need that size. I will be using the 4mm one on my R&B for the governor drive.


John
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Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Rob.Wilson

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Re: Scott flame licker build
« Reply #294 on: May 01, 2011, 03:58:36 AM »
Cheers John  :thumbup:

I orders some from Ebay  :ddb: :ddb: :ddb:


Rob