Author Topic: Small belt drive for model boat (Read 31101 times)

HS93 · « **on:** January 24, 2009, 04:24:55 PM »

Hi a friend has asked me to build a gear drive for his boat , one thing he wants is a good motor mount hat can also revert to direct drive so we can do back to back tests, I started today to make the main mounting plate, this has two positions fo the motor which is a water cooled 700bb race type motor, first you can use it for direct drive and by moving the motor ove and inserting a bearing holder you can have 2,1-1 so able to get a bit more eficency out of it heare a a few pictures of it so far, I started by drilling the motot holes with a step drill then finnished them of with my trusty boring head, I am getting better at using it , I only get half the noise and smoke I did when I started.
I have made the bearing holder that drops in the motor hole and locates as the motor would . there is a picture of yh mock up of how it will look I have to make theside mounts that will hold it in place.
I will put a link on to show the boat as it sails now , we are hoping for similar speed but a better run time

Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 24, 2009, 04:37:10 PM »

A few more pictures, Ill post the finnishe unit in the next few days I hope.
Peter

Brass_Machine · « **Reply #2 on:** January 24, 2009, 04:44:36 PM »

Very cool. I am sure you are better with a boring head than I am. I would like to see pictures of this mounted up.

Eric

Darren · « **Reply #3 on:** January 24, 2009, 05:16:02 PM »

Very tidy,

What's that piping around the motor, a heat exchanger?

rleete · « **Reply #4 on:** January 24, 2009, 05:24:22 PM »

Water cooling jacket.

bogstandard · « **Reply #5 on:** January 24, 2009, 05:26:57 PM »

Hi Peter,

If you get the prop selection right, you will find that not only will you get longer running times, but better performance as well.

You should easily be able to add 20% to 25% to the prop size. If it is running say an X45 direct drive, try it on an X55 with the reduction gearbox.

John

HS93 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 24, 2009, 05:34:30 PM »

This is a vidio of it direct drive, the run tome was not that good but its about at the boats limit for speed, we have played with props and we hope we can go up a bit and get a bit better run time .the tube is to water cool it as they do get warmish but this one is not to bad, I prefer to gear all my boats and have found that I get better run time and performance, the idea of this is so we can swap over very quick and do back to back tests , I have been trying to persuade this chap that it will sort some of his problems out for six months so this shouild do it . the runs where not very long as we where trying to avoid ducks in the vidio

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=4a7XkHpu7lY&feature=channel_page

bogstandard · « **Reply #7 on:** January 24, 2009, 06:08:54 PM »

Peter,

I thought you were on about a fast electric, not a scale boat. In scale speed that must be nearly 200 MPH!!!

You need to go slower, not faster.

John

sbwhart · « **Reply #8 on:** January 25, 2009, 02:13:28 AM »

Hi Great video

realy enjoyed it I didn't realise they went so fast

, the boats I saw at Paperwick were a lot slower, but I think they were steam.

And what do you mean avoiding ducks I thought you were hunting them.

Cheers

Stew

HS93 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:53:57 PM »

Did a few bits tonight while I wait for the M4 bolts to arrive , i bought a bender a few years ago and prob only use it about once every six months , I thought it might making brass parts a bit easyer on my hands but I still tend to end up using two bits of angel iron in the vice as I can controle it better. It seems to be each time I but something that I have thought that will help me do so and so when I get it I find its easyer to do by hand, anyway hear are a few more pictures to show the sides , the ally is a bit of "I dont know what" all I know is it rings like mad when drilling and took an age to get my panell puch through it , anyway the pictures will give an idea what its supposed to look like , we will see when its finnished

Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2009, 09:59:32 PM »

and another

HS93 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 28, 2009, 10:19:49 PM »

A few pictures from tonight it just needs some air holes and a bit of lightening, Ill post the final pictures when installed ,

Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 28, 2009, 10:24:08 PM »

A few more pictures from tonight
Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:09:52 AM »

just a quick picture showing it installed in the boat, the motor is now about an 1" lower than it was and it now lines up, the boat was built about 30 years ago and had a small IC engine in origanly, there is also a picture of the old direct drive set up that was far to high and helped make the boat roll at speed, hopefully he may now get a better run time as it is far to fast anyway.
Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:12:45 AM »

and one with the new gears and a bit lower in hull

also a link to the full size boat it was based on , by the way they where Petrol Powerd not Diesel.

.com/forum/thread.php?thread=757

Bernd · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:21:22 AM »

Very nice job there Peter.

I would think that the boat would lean to one side a bit with the motor offset like that or does the large pulley counter act the motor?

Bernd

HS93 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:24:04 AM »

we will be balancing it up with a set of cells on the other .

Peter

Darren · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2009, 11:13:30 AM »

That looks neat, really neat Peter,

Brass_Machine · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2009, 08:47:41 PM »

Peter,

Job well done! Get anymore work done on your tug? I am dying to see more.

Eric

HS93 · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2009, 09:35:14 PM »

Thanks for that Chaps , I have a few jobs to do then it's back to the tug, when I had my mates boat on the bench i was in the mood to work on the tug, but could not get near it

I have recently got a plan that was from a ship yard that built some of these tugs in the 1920s its the first bit of decent info I have had on the boat for some time , fortunatly what I have done up to now is quite near , there are a few bits that want altering and also it answers some questions as how things line up like the steering chains to the ships wheel, I wonderd why they went in to the bridge so far back, but it's because the wheel is at the back and the captain stands in front of it , strange set up but now al the chains line up and make sense, the only majour part to alter is the deck out side the bridge is not planked but grating, so some planking has to come up

I also have a few brass window frames to knock up for a local modeler i thought it was only a few but it turned out to be 16 of them, must learn to keep quiet.

Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 01, 2009, 01:26:20 PM »

window frames, they are only 23 x 12 mm and 12 x 9 mm the rivets are 1/32 he has not decided if he is going to want rivets in them or not, hope not, lot of holes.its 0.06 brass. and I had to cut them up on mill as the brass was curling.

must finnish the CNC

Peter

HS93 · « **Reply #21 on:** March 01, 2009, 01:29:10 PM »

dont know why I cannot post more than one picture at a time

bogstandard · « **Reply #22 on:** March 01, 2009, 01:47:30 PM »

Looks like the byte size of the pictures is too large for more than one Peter.

If you can knock them down in DPI, they will usually get a lot smaller byte wise. It tend to make them 150 DPI at the most.

John

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Author Topic: Small belt drive for model boat (Read 31101 times)

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