Author Topic: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log  (Read 47298 times)

Offline raynerd

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #50 on: October 11, 2010, 04:01:19 PM »
Guys, sorry for not replying. I did read both your posts when you made them. I have tried a lot of what you said. Infact me and Kwacks took a look at this and sadly I think there are a few issues. As MadJack mentioned, the testtube for a start is just not accurate enough. I think I`m going to have to start this one over again. I need to change the power piston cylinder and a few other problems but it`ll have to be when the Stuart is finished.

I`ll get back on this asap.

Chris

Offline NickG

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #51 on: October 12, 2010, 03:37:42 AM »
Glad you've done some troubleshooting chris, would be a shame to leave it.

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #52 on: October 13, 2010, 11:39:11 AM »
Chris, I learned about "straight and round" dealing with hydraulic lifters in engines, needing a couple of tenths clearance, and less ovality and taper, and this is followed in hydraulics all the way through.  Then, when you get into diesels, the injector pumps and injectors are even more precision, and demanding.  The use of a wood or plastic "soft lap" is the best way to get something as hard as glass perfect, and with care, you can keep taper and roundness within a tenth of a thousandth.  It is best when you can use something like the finest valve grinding compound to take out the "meat" of the out of round and any taper, and gradually get finer, so you don't waste time trying to cut lots with the fine compound.  I think once you've got a good power piston seal, the other niggling details will fall, one at a time, into place and you will see it run as it should.  I never would have bothered going back to my failed flamesucker, had it not been for seeing the exact model of mine, running on this forum, and goading me.  After I get the radial engine done, and the Ajax Steam engine, and The Poppin', if you're still down with regards to the LTD stirling, I'll build one I've been meaning to, and give you a goad, maybe, or at least competition as to who gets one running.  :poke: :headbang: :nrocks:  jack

Offline raynerd

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #53 on: February 24, 2012, 07:29:09 PM »
Well it has been a year and a half since anything was updated on this post. I have spent hours and hours on the engine at the time trying to get it to run but with no avail. I could "feel" it pushing and wanting to go but it would never take off. Anyway, a month or so a go a fellow madmodder allowed me to send it down to him for inspection. Within a few nights I had a message back with videos of it running.

As presumed at the time, the test tube glass power piston was not true enough and this has been lapped. The pillars holding the main crank shaft have also been aligned.

It came back to me in pieces and it took me two nights to reassemble it so it would work. I spent hours on it again and it just wouldn`t go!!!! Anyway, when it finally set off I took these pictures.

So before I show, a huge huge thanks to Pete...   :beer:  I owe you one for sure as this thing has been driving me bonkers for years!

It runs every time now it is together and setup but I`m going to make so finer adjustments so it will run better.




Offline NickG

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #54 on: February 24, 2012, 10:11:10 PM »
Well done Chris and Pete,

Fantastic, surely the hardest type of engine to get to run.

In the last couple of years you've made an LTD engine, an i.c. engine and a clock which I think are amazing achievements!  :bow:
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #55 on: February 25, 2012, 02:18:13 AM »
Chris.
I'd forgotten, you'd not actually made this one run! 

Well done Pete, for the tweaking!   :clap: :clap:

It runs at the right sort of rpm too! I like to see the wheels go around....... :thumbup:

David D
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Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline Swarfing

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #56 on: February 25, 2012, 04:30:40 AM »
Chris just realised why it took so long to get it working?

You were too close to the kettle  :lol:
Once in hole stop digging.

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #57 on: February 25, 2012, 11:36:09 AM »
Awesome job guys. It looks like a smooth runner.

...
As presumed at the time, the test tube glass power piston was not true enough and this has been lapped. The pillars holding the main crank shaft have also been aligned.
...

So the cylinder was lapped? How was this done?

Eric
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Offline raynerd

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #58 on: February 28, 2012, 04:41:44 AM »
Eric, not sure, I`ve been waiting for Pete to reply...I`m sure he`ll pop up in the next few days. The lapping has worked really well it seems and has certainly taken down a few high spots and you can see this where the glass has lightly clouded due to rubbing. I`m not sure how he did it though.

Chris

Offline Pete.

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Re: Jan Ridders' Simple LTD Stirling Engine - craynerd build log
« Reply #59 on: March 05, 2012, 06:56:10 PM »
Hey guys - sorry I had missed this, probably just because of pressures of work.

I found that the test tube that the cylinder was cut from rather than being round was actually slightly four-lobed, and this was causing havoc with the piston-cylinder fit. I found a marker pen with a strong parallel body which tapered to the end and wrapped some emery paper around then sat for a good while watching the TV and gently sanding the inside with this makeshift tool to round the cylinder ID off. Also tried some autobody cutting paste which turned to be too coarse and caused the paper to bind badly so persevered with the emery and finished it off with fine wet & dry with soapy water to improve the inside surface and reduce the friction.

I kept this up until the graphite piston would slowly sink in the tube when stood end-up on my desk but drop freely if I lifted it.