Tapered Gibs

[TroyO]

I am "designing in my head" a custom saddle to fit between a SX2 base and table. I am debating whether to go with a tapered gib or a normal screw adjust gib.

I am looking for examples/pictures/drawings of tapered gibs and the associated adjustment mechanisms. It will help me decide if I can pull off a tapered gib or if I would be better off using the simpler design.

Thanks for any references you may have!

[Brass_Machine]

Hi TroyO

V45 did a tapered gib setup on his mini lathe. Posted about it on MEM

LINK

Hope it helps!

[trevoratxtal]

In my opinion, if you are up to the making go for taper .
Once set up a smallest of tweaks adjusts the play in seconds/ or locks.
However it is so much easier to machine the multi screws setup.
Regards
Trev

[velocette]

Hi Troyo
My solution to adjusting the gibs on an X2 mill is to use "Cup Point" grub-set screws and 4 mm - 5/32 ball bearing  "< o >"

You may have to use a hand drill to tidy up the dimples in the gib as sometimes the finish on some X2 mills leaves a tidy up a necessity.

Some users advocate using a brass on bronze gibs.

  From an X2 Mill Nut Case
 please check my postings if in doubt

Eric

[Stilldrillin]

After straightening each gib strip. I spun the grub-set screws in the lathe, and filed to a point. Matching the drilled gib dimples.

Never had a problem with gibs, after that....... 

David D

[TroyO]

Thanks all for the links... for some reason I wasn't cathing those references in my searches and they totally filled in the gaps I was missing! Trev, thanks for the "Hands on" opinion on the real world difference it makes... that helps too!

I'm still hoping to score the table. I ordered one through Grizzly but they already blew through one "delivery date" already.... I am fearing it may be on eternal backorder.  I do already have a base already in hand.

In the meantime, rather than order the saddle and hope it shows up I just ordered the block of cast iron to make my own. (I am making it for CNC anyway.)

Since I have the opportunity to spend some time (perhaps eternity ;-) cutting the saddle out I think the tapered gib seems a fair bet.

If anyone knows where I might order an 18x5ish T slot table that may be more readily available please let me know!

[Brass_Machine]

I would be interested in watching this build as I am redoing my CNC'd X2 (gathering new materials stage). Interested in doing a build log?

Eric

[TroyO]

I will be doing a build log... but it will be sloowwwww going. I don't get much time in shop (Just had a baby. :-) but I figured this would be a good long term modding/scraping/building project to have a rock-solid and accurate XY base for CNC.

[Brass_Machine]

Very cool.

I ended up buy THIS from LMS (with a spare saddle) and plan to recut the dovetails to 60*... with brass gibs

[Jonny]

Why not do it out of decent steel far more hardy than nasty brass.

[TroyO]

I think you want to use something softer than the machine parts so any wear happens to the small part instead of the larger bearing surfaces.

Wear out the gib, not the dovetails in other words.

I still don't think the table will ever ship..... I'm now toying with the idea of making a 24" ish dovetailed table out of cast iron (4x1.5x24) and bolting an 8020 T-slot extrusion to the top... that way the T-slot area would be replacable.... random rambelings.

[mzt]

Wonder if You had grit between gibs and ways: where would it get embedded, and what would wear?
Marcello

[velocette]

Very cool.

I ended up buy THIS from LMS (with a spare saddle) and plan to recut the dovetails to 60*... with brass gibs

Best bit if kit that anyone can fit to an X2 mill  saves you from having to stiffen up the rather flimsy tilt arrangement

It always is a pity that manufactures do not consult with the end users before going into a production run to sell us something they think we should have.

Then see what a clever and inventive body of mechanics is out there in all sorts of workshops.

I wonder if they ever take the time and login to "Mad Modder" and se what is out there

Eric

[TroyO]

MZT, my inclination is that the grit would embed mostly in a softer gib, and scratch the ways only a little.

If the materials are of identical/similar hardness it scratches both about 1/2 way.

Imagine sand on a sponge on a piece of glass.... not ideal, but not as bad as sand sandwiched between glass on glass....

I have 0 research or information to back that up, it's just the way I imagine it.

[Jonny]

All quality machines have both dovetail and gibs hardened.
To name a few Cincinnati, Churchill, Snow, DSG, Harrison, Ward, even ones that have a hardened V with hardened ball bearings that run in it.