1
The Water Cooler / Re: MEM down
« Last post by Jo on Today at 12:48:31 PM »We are back. Thanks Ade 
Jo
Jo
Recent Posts
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The Water Cooler / Re: MEM down
« Last post by Jo on Today at 12:41:21 PM »Ade has got back to me and is going to look at the problem with MEM. 
Jo
Jo
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The Water Cooler / MEM down
« Last post by Jo on Today at 12:23:05 PM »Sorry Guys we are having problems with MEM today. 
I've sent AdeV a PM and text so hopefully he will soon be aware and be able to get us up and running again.
Jo
I've sent AdeV a PM and text so hopefully he will soon be aware and be able to get us up and running again.
Jo
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Tools / Re: Measuring backlash on rotary table
« Last post by Dell on Today at 03:47:56 AM »It seems that backlash compensation is done by going back how ever many steps set in settings then forward to position but as philf said I should normally only be going in one direction most of the time.
Dell
Dell
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Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on April 20, 2024, 11:09:57 AM »Hi Folks,
A very short week of one day! due to busy commitments on all other fronts, but next week should be a full one! I finalise the design for the heat exchanger and get it about 3/4 finished. Amazing how these back of the head designs suddenly come together and start to make sense!
Phil, Still wet and cold in East Yorkshire
A very short week of one day! due to busy commitments on all other fronts, but next week should be a full one! I finalise the design for the heat exchanger and get it about 3/4 finished. Amazing how these back of the head designs suddenly come together and start to make sense!
Phil, Still wet and cold in East Yorkshire
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Tools / Re: Measuring backlash on rotary table
« Last post by philf on April 18, 2024, 01:53:29 PM »Thanks for all replies
Haven’t done any more recently due to having a few clocks to service but hopefully now I have caught up I can get back onto it, I want to be able to cut clock wheels & pinions .
Dell
Then I don't think you need to worry about compensating for backlash as you'd generally be working in one direction only and could lock the rotary table (which I assume you can use vertically as well as horizontally.)
Phil.
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Tools / Re: Measuring backlash on rotary table
« Last post by Dell on April 18, 2024, 10:46:19 AM »Thanks for all replies
Haven’t done any more recently due to having a few clocks to service but hopefully now I have caught up I can get back onto it, I want to be able to cut clock wheels & pinions .
Dell
Haven’t done any more recently due to having a few clocks to service but hopefully now I have caught up I can get back onto it, I want to be able to cut clock wheels & pinions .
Dell
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Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on April 13, 2024, 11:06:39 AM »A short week, as will be next week, but no less interesting I hope! I attempt a fix on a linear acutator in a rise and fall column for a piece of opticians equipment, and then on to the workshop heating. I find all the plumbing bits I need and build the heat exchanger for the ducted air heating in the workshop!
Phil, in STILL cold and wet East Yorkshire
Phil, in STILL cold and wet East Yorkshire
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Project Logs / Silent compressor from fridge motor.
« Last post by pycoed on April 08, 2024, 09:27:17 AM »For all those who would like to use an old fridge freezer compressor as a small air compressor, I may be able to save you some trouble. I had a small compressor (Wolf Cub) in the garden shed used just for blowing up garden tractor tyres trailer wheels etc etc. this sort of thing:-
It used the very common pressure regulator controller widely available (I know now) new for under a tenner on Ebay. Apart from the noise it worked OK for a few years until it didn’t: motor u/s, so bought another one for circa £50 which was even noisier – still for occasional use it would do. They both used the very common pressure regulator switch widely available new for under a tenner on Ebay.:-
In the garage/workshop I had a couple of old fridge compressors from long ago scrapped fridges (that’s wives for you: “It’s the wrong size, shape, colour it’s got to go etc etc.”) so I thought I’d couple one to the tank & regulator etc from the deceased Wolf. Come in handy as a blow gun for the lathe & mill without the noise of the big compessor - easy as pie I thought – all fitted with the aid of a couple of custom fittings turned to convert the fridge pipes to BSP etc. Emptied about 100ml of oil & refilled with 10W30 & away to go. No tank pressure all air leaking from what I discovered to be the unloader valve situated between the electrical glands beneath the switch.:-
Cue a world of pain as I decided to dismantle the pressure switch to see how the unloader worked literally HOURS later I finally got the little electrical switch return spring back in place & could refit the switch. - Still leaking & no tank pressure.
Took off the regulator switch & all guages & cleaned all thoroughly reassembled (now used about 20 yards of PTFE tape!) Result just the same.
Went online & finally found the reason: apparently there is not enough oomph in a fridge compressor to close the unloader valve against its (puny) spring so the valve needs modifying to remove the spring – see this video from about 4:40 for how to:-
Drilled out the valve keeper, removed the spring, refitted the core with a retainer of vac line from an old Merc & FINALLY all was well.
So – if you are doing this, since these regulator switches are so widely available:
1 Be aware of the need to modify the unloader valve if it leaks – I assume it works as is for some people, since i could only find one reference to this on t’internet.
2. Unless you are a Japanese schoolgirl with uncommonly long strong fingers, do NOT dismantle that bloody pressure valve If I’d known they were £7.99 delivered on Ebay , I would have introduced it to Mr Sledge & his friend Mr Anvil.
It used the very common pressure regulator controller widely available (I know now) new for under a tenner on Ebay. Apart from the noise it worked OK for a few years until it didn’t: motor u/s, so bought another one for circa £50 which was even noisier – still for occasional use it would do. They both used the very common pressure regulator switch widely available new for under a tenner on Ebay.:-
In the garage/workshop I had a couple of old fridge compressors from long ago scrapped fridges (that’s wives for you: “It’s the wrong size, shape, colour it’s got to go etc etc.”) so I thought I’d couple one to the tank & regulator etc from the deceased Wolf. Come in handy as a blow gun for the lathe & mill without the noise of the big compessor - easy as pie I thought – all fitted with the aid of a couple of custom fittings turned to convert the fridge pipes to BSP etc. Emptied about 100ml of oil & refilled with 10W30 & away to go. No tank pressure all air leaking from what I discovered to be the unloader valve situated between the electrical glands beneath the switch.:-
Cue a world of pain as I decided to dismantle the pressure switch to see how the unloader worked literally HOURS later I finally got the little electrical switch return spring back in place & could refit the switch. - Still leaking & no tank pressure.
Took off the regulator switch & all guages & cleaned all thoroughly reassembled (now used about 20 yards of PTFE tape!) Result just the same.
Went online & finally found the reason: apparently there is not enough oomph in a fridge compressor to close the unloader valve against its (puny) spring so the valve needs modifying to remove the spring – see this video from about 4:40 for how to:-
Drilled out the valve keeper, removed the spring, refitted the core with a retainer of vac line from an old Merc & FINALLY all was well.
So – if you are doing this, since these regulator switches are so widely available:
1 Be aware of the need to modify the unloader valve if it leaks – I assume it works as is for some people, since i could only find one reference to this on t’internet.
2. Unless you are a Japanese schoolgirl with uncommonly long strong fingers, do NOT dismantle that bloody pressure valve If I’d known they were £7.99 delivered on Ebay , I would have introduced it to Mr Sledge & his friend Mr Anvil.
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Tools / Re: Measuring backlash on rotary table
« Last post by philf on April 06, 2024, 03:50:49 PM »Dell,
To determine whether you could even consider backlash compensation I'd try the following:
Move the handwheel about a tenth of a turn. Check the backlash (using the divisions on the handwheel)and repeat until you've done a full revolution. If you get variations in backlash then your worm is running eccentrically.
Next revolve the table a tenth of a turn (whole numbers of turns of the handwheel) and note the backlash. Repeat for one revolution of the table. If there's a big variation then your wheel is running eccentrically.
You may find that at some point there's zero backlash and in that case there's no way of adjusting any of it out - without machining!
As has already been said you probably needn't worry about the backlash compensation but, if there are inconsistent results from the above tests, you'd probably introduce more problems than you solve.
Phil.
To determine whether you could even consider backlash compensation I'd try the following:
Move the handwheel about a tenth of a turn. Check the backlash (using the divisions on the handwheel)and repeat until you've done a full revolution. If you get variations in backlash then your worm is running eccentrically.
Next revolve the table a tenth of a turn (whole numbers of turns of the handwheel) and note the backlash. Repeat for one revolution of the table. If there's a big variation then your wheel is running eccentrically.
You may find that at some point there's zero backlash and in that case there's no way of adjusting any of it out - without machining!
As has already been said you probably needn't worry about the backlash compensation but, if there are inconsistent results from the above tests, you'd probably introduce more problems than you solve.
Phil.