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Gallery, Projects and General => Gallery => Topic started by: PekkaNF on April 02, 2017, 11:49:18 AM

Title: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on April 02, 2017, 11:49:18 AM
Used some silver steel, face, drill, recess, treepan chip breaker, parting off.

Had to use rotab and tilted it a little for clearance angle. Hardening was normal, I usually use hot air gun to draw temper, bit easier to control than alternative.

Bit holder is key steel stock, pretty much just roughed, drilled and threaded for M4.

Pekka

Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: awemawson on April 02, 2017, 11:51:40 AM
Nice straw colour on that tempering  :thumbup:
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: John Stevenson on April 02, 2017, 12:58:58 PM
I usually drill a dimple into the end of a steel shank then drop a ball bearing in of the right size and braze it all in.

Then just grind 1/2 the ball bearing away, bit like a vertical 'D' bit .
Decent material and no hardening needed.
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on April 02, 2017, 01:48:07 PM
Andrew, aiming harder than blue hues for plastic and other soft material. Hot air gun is easer for me than torch...even after few knife blades.

John, that is good hint for large radius.  I needed here hemsisphere bottom and 45 degree sides. Don't know why but the boatguy insisted. That one does not go boat yet, needs a little tweaking on dimenssions and then 10 pcs more to go.

Pekka
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: sparky961 on April 02, 2017, 06:54:14 PM
Nice job.  I like the idea of using a heat gun to temper.  I never considered that before.
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on April 13, 2017, 03:48:54 PM
Not sure if this is interesting, but i though of showing how I am using it.

I'll keep the story short. Hope it's clear.

I need to make two different size rope pulleys, only few smaller ones but over 10 bigger ones. Desided to make small ones first and just some big ones and then rest in two batches, just to make sure I don't exceed any dimenssion and tolerances won't accumumulate anywhere. Would be annoying to remake another batch of 10 because one feature would be 0,3mm too small or shave of extra 0,5 mm on everyone.

Aynyway, this is first time I use POM on that size and tolerance. All is made out of 1 metre long 50 mm OD rod.

First near 20 mm "pucks" are cut with band saw. Exact width does not matter as long as there is enough to make the boss (17,5 mm wide).

Then puck is put into aluminium collet that has a recess. The collet face that is towards the three jaw chuck and collet recess indexes the puck in relation of the carriage stop. Carriage stop has two postitions. One that much out that first face/boss is cut on one go.

I made a gang tool that has two 1/8" HSS bits set very carefully to cut boss and side on one stroke.

The puck is removed from the collet, turned and freshly squared side will butt to collet recess. Now I can cut it into exact width: cariage stop advanced and another face is cut + hole drilled. Here I know that the side target measurement is 15,5 mm wide (boss width 17,5 mm) Therefore side feature should protrude 3,5 mm out of the aluminium collet. Fast check.....but temperature, collet pressure, burr + other error sources will crop up here, no point trying to "improve" better than necessary.

This has been repeated until batch of five is ready.

Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on April 13, 2017, 04:03:35 PM
Next fixture is a stub mandrell.

Arbor press used to mount the embryo rope wheel into a stub mandrel.

Here I used a gauge to set the wheel face to chuck distance to known distance....that is needed when rope wheel groove is cut as last step. That form tool is not easiest thing to center...but if same carriage stop position is used and a gauge piece is used to set the pulley where I want, that's all I need to know once set.

Then I change normal turning tool return cross slide to "0" and turn piece to 47 mm OD. Nothing to it, least critical operation and easiest nail it with unnecessary accuracy.

Then form tool is changed, carriage is pushed left against the carriage stop and rope groove is formed on one go, only thing was to wch cross slide for "40" when it looked about righ and check that the bottom was near 39,0 mm dia, but not under, then both sides were 1,5 mm wide....about. good enough. Rope is forgiving.

The arbor press is used to press mandrell out an the whole thing is repeated 5 times.

Took some time to "dial" in the tools, but when setup was not disturbed very reasonable time was used for each pulley.

Made two batches on two evenings when I had measuremets dialed in. Only thing is that it's hard to keep very close (just for fun) tolerances with plastic. Temperature, mounting pressure and cutting speed has very pronounced effect on dimenssions.

Pekka
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: DMIOM on April 14, 2017, 05:11:44 AM
Ingeniously done and well explained - thanks Pekka.

Dave
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PK on April 14, 2017, 08:24:11 AM
There is skill in making 'one perfect one'.
'QTY 100 in a cost/time effective manner' is next level.  I love this stuff!

Hat's off to you.
PK
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on April 14, 2017, 09:44:27 AM
Thank you very much.

It's all pretty basic and rudimenttary and I was wondering if this interests anybody.

I just needed to find out a way to make 10-20 of these to my friend "for free" and an effective manner.

I put much emphasis to find a method that results could be repeated at later date. There are few of them on the boat and changes are that they need to be refurbished as well.

Thank you,
Pekka
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: GoFish on May 05, 2017, 11:01:56 PM
Excellent article and great presentation. Lets hope 'boatguy' sometimes goes fishing and drops a few off aye.
Title: Re: Rope wheel pulley groove form tool
Post by: PekkaNF on May 06, 2017, 02:31:06 AM
He is really nice guy and helps me with design problems.

I just know enenough of mechanical design to have helthy respect on good designers. There are so many finer details past srength, flex, bolt sizing and bearing constructions....sometimes I just need a kick or idea or correctly sized bolt joint, but sometimes the whole design with drawings and all.

Pekka