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How do I?? / Re: Anyone Ever Shortened a Shahe DRO Scale?
« Last post by WeldingRod on May 25, 2018, 05:27:15 PM »
I've cut those down too, even going so far as to peel off the working bit and graft it into a lathe cross slide!
I have also cut down a GLASS scale, but that's a lot more fiddly!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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New from Old / Re: New Cylinder and Piston for TS350 Petrol Saw
« Last post by PekkaNF on May 24, 2018, 04:43:01 PM »
Good work.

Doesn' that engine need high quality oil bigger than normal %? Here if you rent the saw (100/day) they give you the labeled can of gasoline to go with it. Rental comppany inform to use only that, because it seizes really quickly with normal two stroke oil/gasoline.

Had to rebuold some carbs long time ago....some diagraph/gasoline combos seem to work better thatn others. Remember changing the fule line and the clunker in the tank.

Pekka
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Resources / Re: Photobucket
« Last post by Stilldrillin on May 24, 2018, 04:08:35 PM »
No chance! Never would return. Ever...... 
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New from Old / Re: New Cylinder and Piston for TS350 Petrol Saw
« Last post by appletree on May 24, 2018, 04:01:51 PM »
I have an old a Ts350 and 2 of the chains saws on which it is based the 08s. Keep threatening to covert 1 of the saws into a TS350 I have loads of dead TS350 front ends covers left over from our hire fleet.
There are lots of safer (chain brakes) saws available, lighter too.

Phil 
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on May 24, 2018, 03:46:31 PM »
Just come off the phone from a long chat with the Renishaw Probe seller - he still works at the Uni . . . .

. . . . the manuals are mine and being posted tomorrow. He was last machining PTFE on it, and that was 2010 - the swarf from it is still in the machine  :clap:
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New from Old / Re: New Cylinder and Piston for TS350 Petrol Saw
« Last post by awemawson on May 24, 2018, 03:41:03 PM »
Yes I have an ancient Stihl 023 chainsaw that I replaced the barrel and piston on a few years back - pretty well identical
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Project Logs / Re: Induction heater project
« Last post by eskoilola on May 24, 2018, 01:42:49 PM »


This is my insight of the inputs and outputs of the controller.

The inputs are the usual stuff the coil presence detection being a little bit challenging. Other that that nothing new here.

On the output side the FAN might be controlled by medium frequency PWM which in turn would be controlled by the coolant temperature vs. ambient temperature. It is idiotic to blow air through the radiator if that air does not cool it down.

The Driver power will bw controlled by low frequency PWM - maybe 20Hz. Might be higher if the driver can cope with that one.
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New from Old / Re: New Cylinder and Piston for TS350 Petrol Saw
« Last post by hermetic on May 24, 2018, 01:09:17 PM »
looks like virtually the same engine as on my venerable Stihl chainsaw, completely agree with you on the circlips, those bends are far too tight, and you can imagine the mess if one of those broke off!
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by hermetic on May 24, 2018, 01:03:07 PM »
Have we done the Balding Beaver joke yet Andrew?
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Project Logs / Re: Induction heater project
« Last post by eskoilola on May 24, 2018, 12:24:25 PM »


The radiator (oil cooler) arrived today. It is exactly the size and shape I expected it to be. Very nice unit.




The threads might be BSP but at least they are not tapered. That would have made fabricating the adaptor a manly experience. I can see that the adaptor actually consists of two parts. The nut and the hollow piece that makes a seal with the taper. Must be made out of aluminium (which I hate) to avoid electrolytic corrosion.


Two 9 centimeter blowers side by side pushing air through that one should create cooling enough for the heater. I have also planned to create a water cooled heatsink for the rectifier as the water is already available. The rectifier produces almost 100 Watts of heat when operating at full power. Arranging a separate air cooled heatsink for those would consume a lot of space and would require yet another fan.


The fets have their individual heatsinks at the moment. I assume that those could also be water cooled. If the capacitors can survive with replacement air cooling then this would cancel the two fans on top of the driver.


Basically the water could be tap water as this is a low voltage driver but I will use deionized water in order not to collect calcium and iron (our water has much of that) and other salts that can be found in our tap water. Rain water might also do it. Lots of that during a typical finnish "summer".
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