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The Design Shop / Re: Spiral Bevel Gears
« Last post by AdeV on Today at 04:00:41 PM »
I'm no expert in gears but... could you buy 2x sets of matching angle grinder gears, and just use the small (or large, if you've got room) pair? That'd give you 1:1 wouldn't it?
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by AdeV on Today at 03:58:14 PM »
You should be able to adjust the angle of the vial on the level; so, put it across the ways at one end, adjust until the bubble is in the middle; move to the end of the ways, and any discrepancy should be in the lathe, not the world (unless you happen to be somewhere near an inconvenient gravitational anomaly - see numerous episodes of Star Trek to see how to deal with those).
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by eskoilola on Today at 02:55:37 PM »
Actually - getting the lathe level with itself. The easiest (by far) way to do this is to make it level with the world. This is because the levels (not the digital ones, I hate them) usually work on a very limited range and tend to measure levelness with the wold ...

After browsing the World Wide Wait I figured out that nobody seems to be using more accurate device than about 0.4mm/meter. So 0.3mm/meter should be enough. Those are German millimeters, not the chinese ones ....

So, I went and bought one of these.

It is a machinist level with 0.3mm/m accuracy.
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by chipenter on Today at 01:23:40 PM »
An enginers level is usualy half a second  thats 120th of a degree , put across the ways at each end of the bed to check and ajust for twist .
How do I?? / Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by eskoilola on Today at 12:42:21 PM »
I would like to reinforce the base of my lathe (the table it is standing on) from particle board to become something more rigid.
The particle board is by no means weak as it is a composition of two 30 millimeter thick boards which are epoxied together. It is just somewhat flexible and does not make the lathe as rigid as it could be.

A 25 mm (one inch) thick iron plate would certainly add some rigidity when bolted under the lathe. As a matter of fact, that lathe has the holes for the bolts already in place. That plate would then in it's turn be bolted into the particle board.

There seems to be several methods to check the levelness (not absolute but relative) of the ways. When attached to a rigid base like that the ways could be easily straightened by shimming the bolts.

So -assuming that I would check the ways with a machinist level, what would be the accuracy needed here ?
0.3 mm/m would tell 0.1 mm differences between the ways (they are about 15 cm apart). Is this accurate enough or do I need to go down to 0.01mm range in order to get any benefit of this procedure?
Are there any alternate procedures to check the way straightness ?

And Yes, I searched the forum with N/A.

CNC / Re: How many DDCSV external buttons ?
« Last post by picclock on Today at 07:44:39 AM »
Hi Will_D

Thanks for the info. Sounds like it is not implemented, which is a shame. Hooked it up but got nothing out from txd :-(

Possibly another fix for Pandora .. .

Best Regards

New from Old / Re: Rebirth of a Denford MIRAC CNC Lathe
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 07:13:07 AM »
Russ and NRML thanks for the suggestions. Swarf is always a possibility but I did give it a comprehensive blow out with an airline several times. I like the tin box idea - I shall store it away - the manufacturers agent says that the reservoirs are still available and I'm awaiting their pricing.

The machine has been in a heated and dry environment for quite a while now so I doubt dampness was the cause, and certainly no sign of it in the culprit inverter.  It was plugged into the 100mA protected circuit for probably less than half a minute - just long enough for me to realise that it hadn't tripped !

As was said, the disconnected earth wire is a smoking gun - someone has been down this path some years ago. If the problem returns I'll have the inverter out on the bench and do a proper diagnosis, my suspicions of the filter components are entirely without evidence - just based on previous experience - so I suppose you'd call it prejudice. (which after all is only making decisions based on prior experience!)

New from Old / Re: Rebirth of a Denford MIRAC CNC Lathe
« Last post by russ57 on Today at 06:51:27 AM »
Another possibility ; although I do like the swarf idea.
Moisture in some insulator. Leakage to earth.
Letting it run for a while with higher leakage allows it to dry.
But the smoking gun is still the disconnected earth. Obviously been a long standing problem. Maybe a leaky cap which reformed?


The Design Shop / Re: Spiral Bevel Gears
« Last post by Joules on Today at 06:47:55 AM »
Thanks Jeff, I took a look at mobility transaxle parts.  Most of the diffs I saw use straight cut bevel gears, but the searches did pull up India for sprial bevel gear sources.  The main drive gear in mobility transaxles are helical gears and look very meaty, will keep that in mind for the future.

New from Old / Re: Rebirth of a Denford MIRAC CNC Lathe
« Last post by nrml on Today at 06:36:15 AM »
Why don't you fold and solder a sheet metal box that can sit within the cracked plastic oil reservoir? It would be a simple solution for the problem. My personal experience with gluing plastic containers of any sort has always been bad.

Do you think that the tripping might have been caused by a bit of swarf in the electronics which fell off when you were dismantling the boards?

The reason I ask is that there appears to be some swarf / dust on the black sheet metal panel and on top of the lowermost mosfet in your last two pictures.
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