MadModder

Yikes! It has been almost 9 months, since I last wrote anything about this, shambles!   


As we can now, all, see the previous Pbucket pics, using the appropriate add ons.......

Firefox.....  https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-fixer/

Chrome..... https://chrome.google.com/webstore/search/photobucket_hotlink_fix?hl=en


I'll continue with, Blundering with Boris. Hope, there's still some interest! 


I wondered, why the new displacer insisted on catching the inside of the hot cap.

The shaft guide was at an angle, having been hammered into the bulkhead...... 




Time to strip, completely. And, totally rebuild......




I've taken the pics, as I've gone along. Not always, in sequence.....

First job, was to get rid of the unnecessary/ leaking, water jacket.

Four inch dia. Made  from tough stainless steel. Not easy to machine, with a mini lathe's power.....




What a mess, in there!




I intended incorporating the end flange, into the cooling fins.......




But. The darned thing fell off. After I'd drilled the new screw holes.....




Yet another "interesting situation", needing a solution........ 

More to follow. Thanks for looking in. 

The bearings and belt did not arrive for this weekend, leaving me time to make some gauging and fitting utsensils.

1: made small about 25 mm long hole axially at the tight end of the arbor to ease extraction of the bearings - allows cold spray spout where needed.

2: Made M6 internal thread at the other end to lock bearing axially during the measurement.

3: Lapped the other end about 0,002 mm smaller, achieving easy sliding fit, when all parts are at same temperature. This was fun part. Could not really gauge it on cool garage, beacause part was warm.

Lap was not best possible, rather hard structural steel, but cast iron would have been much more work.

Checked the ends this morning against gauge blocks and readings are:

Gauge blocks 25,001 mm

Tight end: 24,990 mm

Sliding fit end: 24,988 mm

Finish loks awfull on the picture, it is rather difficult to see on normal light. I was affraid it would not show.

So I aquired a cnc shield kit, some nema 17 motors and some 12mm linear bearings and made a pattern to cast the block for the Y and Z axis.
Powered up my furnace and made the casting which shrunk a little in one spot but I decided I could get away with it.
So I am currently up to the stage where I have the bearings fitted (temporarily) and it all seems to be going well.

Hi All,

Perhaps this is why a lot of sparkies are using an extra core as earth, and not trusting the SWA to have good continuity

The use of the SWA screen as the sole earth conductor has not been allowed (in Ireland anyway)
for years 

When I had a "real" job, it often included work on SWA cabling installed in the 70's
All these cables had separate earth conductors
Really glad to be out of that game now

Recently I was asked to change out the cable to a foot pedal on a press brake
I could not believe how skimpy the shielding and insulation is on the "new" sylflex compared to the old???

John

I am building Harold advanced grinding resty and want to use his magnetc bases update.

As its all stainless steel i would like to use one of the magnetic steels like EN56 (aka 416). [can get magnetic stainless notice boards in A2 or A3 sizes for reasonable money]

Would I get a similar holding force as if I just used mild steel?

Cheers

Will, Dubland.ie