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Exciting read, Andrew, about the compressor fire and the console coming alive!  :coffee: :coffee:
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Ade, the ironic thing is it will never be seen! It's tucked away under the machine out of sight down that tunnel - the only bit that will show is the broad end, which will have another thick plate sitting on it holding the pump and intake filter.

Actually the finish isn't that bad considering it's grit blasted rust, but not car body standard !
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I liken the painting of this tank to an Ocean Liner - pretty from a distance, none too brilliant close up but functional.

I believe the Americans call this a "20ft paint job". It looks great.... from 20ft away  :lol:
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That was all very well, but I was just packing up and I realised I'd totally forgotten to grit blast and paint the 'Funnel Strips' that fix on to the tank and presumably try to avoid to much fluid being lost   :bang:

Never mind - get on with it.  They fit into my cabinet blaster but using the Hydrovane compressor would take too long. Some time ago I plumbed a 'Claw Fitting' onto the outside wall of my welding shop connecting the internal compressed air system via a ball valve. So connect up the Road Compressor (no fire this time !) blast them, and use your last roller to paint them (memo to self, buy more roller pads)
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Today's task - put the last coat of paint on the inside and top surface of the coolant tank. So having let out and fed the cat, the geese, the chicken and the pigs, and returned the dogs to the house it was painting time.

I liken the painting of this tank to an Ocean Liner - pretty from a distance, none too brilliant close up but functional. And after all I'm applying the paint in the same way they paint liners - with a long handled roller.

So while I was in scruffy clothes I thought that I might as well do a job I've been putting off for a few days - rolling on the ground installing the three remaining levelling feet and pads. When the machine was delivered it was placed on the four pads roughly at the corners and levelled, but these three are right in the middle surrounding the tunnel into which the coolant tank goes, so they needed fitting before the tank can go back.

Trivial job - unscrew the ball ended bolt - slip the pad with a domed recess under the  ball end - tighten the bolt so it just bears weight - what could be easier  :med:

Answer: not having to do it at arms length down a tunnel 6" tall by 18" wide  using spanners that you can barely lift with your arms outstretched :bang:

First one wasn't too bad, but the ones down the far end of the tunnel were . . .challenging . . . :clap:

All done now though, so I can climb back into clean clothes, have breakfast and take the dogs for a walk (wife in Houston for the week staying with youngest son)
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Project Logs / Re: Building a New Lathe
« Last post by vtsteam on June 22, 2018, 09:37:20 PM »
Thanks guys!  :beer:

Catching up on house chores for a day. So I've been out of the shop.

I think the next thing to do will be cast a spindle pulley. The spindle necks down for a few inches at the left end, and the threads and retaining nuts are at the bitter end. So there's no way to put tension on the bearings (and therefore install them) until there's at least a sleeve (or extended pulley hub) on the left to bear against the leftmost roller bearing and put pressure on the assembly.

The spindle is a force fit in the bearings, so nothing is assembled yet.

Might as well be a pulley, then. Likely a toothed belt, but I haven't decided on the exact type yet, nor the size of the pulley(s). The treadmill motor is rated at 2hp @110 DCV @ 6700 RPM nameplate. but I doubt it will run anything like that speed, from experience. That must be no-load speed. I had no trouble boring at ~100 RPM  w/ a crude 5" to 1.5" vee belt reduction.
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by awemawson on June 22, 2018, 05:51:21 PM »
Yes hydraulics for opening and closing the chuck and advancing the tail stock from a built in biggish pump.

I thought that one of the 'Gotcha's ' had caught me this afternoon. I was experimenting putting binary data into the part of the control memory that sets up the serial port. I could put '1's ' in no problem, but not '0's '  :bang:

Turned out that in fact three numbers weren't working on the keyboard so probably a 'select line' on the decoder, so either something on the interface card that I installed yesterday, or just possibly a bad connection.

Leading from the key matrix and the LEDs on the front panel are those very thin flexible PCB 'cables' pushed into the gripper type connectors. I took them all out, cleaned and sprayed them with contact cleaner, and PHEW - numbers now working  :thumbup:

It seems that this controller is a half way house between two generations of the control, so I'm having to interpret instructions rather than just obey them. I think possibly the University had a peek at what was coming and wanted it early.

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Project Logs / Re: my way to billd a stuart 10 horizontal engine
« Last post by krv3000 on June 22, 2018, 05:13:08 PM »
hi will put up sum pics at sum point I got sum stanles rod 2.5mm will remake the studs I have sum 4.5mm AF coming to make sum bolts I got sum SS nuts of peter so I don't have to make them also borrowed the taps and die's for the gland nuts and exhorts port I mad up a angel bracket to attach the top casting to I also got a 11mm ball nose cuter off john for the Bering mounting point have fun by for gnaw     
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Project Logs / Re: wats in bob's box
« Last post by krv3000 on June 22, 2018, 05:04:32 PM »
lol can not believe im still sorting it all out I have given the Vernier to john for his give a way
 
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New from Old / Re: The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
« Last post by hermetic on June 22, 2018, 01:22:44 PM »
What a result on the electronics side Andrew! 40 bar, wow thats quite a lot, is that air or hydraulic, I assume hydraulic, does the machine have a pump on it?
Phil.
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