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How to's / Re: Tapping -- How to's and How not to's....
« Last post by PK on Today at 12:33:33 AM »
I'm a big fan of spiral flute taps and torque limited electric drivers. You have to work hard to break a tap with that setup and seeing the swarf curl up out of the hole in three contiguous strips makes me happy....
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Project Logs / Re: FINGER PLATE BUILD HOLDING SMALL PARTS TO MACHINE
« Last post by ieezitin on May 24, 2017, 07:37:45 PM »
Sparky.

great idea will put this in the design.

Here i am making the locking block for the swivel for the depth stop / scribe arm.

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How to's / Re: Tapping -- How to's and How not to's....
« Last post by PekkaNF on May 24, 2017, 05:53:11 PM »
I may be going against the flow, but I don't constantly back off when hand tapping, certainly not the 1/4" turn routine. My reasoning is that because it is universan acepted fact the when you ream: don't back off - you chip the cutting edge. I beleive there is some extent same mechanics totapping too. I may ease a small fraction of the turn on very difficult material, just to assit swarf packing.

incidently I used some time to get boxes and organisize my tapps. The big idea is to keep one thread size (metric coarse) tools on one box: Taps, tapping size drills (by 10 each size, short), clearance hole drill, countersunk bit and recess bit.

Too some time to design the apropriate sticker, nicked the graphics and all information from three sources.

Boes will stack two high, or I could nest them two rows, two high, but I'm using bigger box to accomondate reamers and their drills and one box for nonstandard taps.

M10 and biger stuff will go on bigger boxes on bigger sellf.

Pekka
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CNC / Re: Cetus3D 3D Printer
« Last post by awemawson on May 24, 2017, 04:59:26 PM »
I've not actually measured them, but as the lids and boxes are interchangeable I'd be very surprised if they were not essentially identical
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CNC / Re: Cetus3D 3D Printer
« Last post by PekkaNF on May 24, 2017, 04:41:41 PM »
Those look good. You printed the same design out of PLA and Pet-G? Are they same size?

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Tools / Re: A DIY bandsaw for the shop !
« Last post by millwright on May 24, 2017, 04:19:52 PM »
I built the same one from the Model Engineers Workshop magazine, it was was in one of the very early issues. must be abouut 20yrs ago now. and it gets a lot of use. Made a few slight mods to it in the building stage,  only thing was i built 5 at the same time for four other friends. no idea if the others are still in use i lost contact with them. Ill see if i can get some pics posted over the next few days.

John
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Project Logs / Re: Trike
« Last post by mexican jon on May 24, 2017, 04:17:43 PM »
This 1 is a six cylinder Kawasaki Z1300, it's already registered. It's not that hard to register new build Trike's but there are lots of things that you have to do which aren't ideal to build a good looking trike.
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How to's / Re: Tapping -- How to's and How not to's....
« Last post by sparky961 on May 24, 2017, 04:12:41 PM »
Reading this old thread I thought I would add my 2 cents worth about tapping aluminium. Consider using "Lacquer Thinner" as a cutting fluid. Many years ago I learned this trick from an old machinist who worked at Lockheed Aircraft. I've tapped holes as small as 2-56 with excellent results.

What's the logic in this? Maybe it stays liquid in a really small hole but for any "normal" size it will have evaporated long before having the chance to be helpful.

There are plenty of "old machinist's tricks" like this you hear about, but a commercial cutting oil designed for the job is often the best solution.
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CNC / Re: DDCSV1.1 4 Axis controller
« Last post by aolney on May 24, 2017, 02:57:46 PM »
Rob -
I thought the feedrate shown in the display did not match the feedrate given in the gcode ie G01 X1 F40, but i ran it again and it seem to work.
Andy
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CNC / Re: Cetus3D 3D Printer
« Last post by awemawson on May 24, 2017, 02:52:43 PM »
The Pet-G printing tests were a success  :thumbup:

I printed a pair of the boxes and lids at exactly the same settings as previously when printing in PLA, except that I upped the nozzle temperature to 240 deg C. No heated bed (not turned up yet!) but it seemed to cope OK.

I did notice that the raft was markedly more difficult to peel from the model. To test the size compatibility I tried PLA lids on Pet-G boxes and vice versa and they fitted fine. Subjectively the Pet-G in more flexible.
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