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Our Shop / Re: Damp proofing
« Last post by Joules on Today at 05:23:44 AM »
John, that slab will take a year or two more to dry out.  Had the same issue when the workshop was built.  Knew the floor wasnít dry the first year as floor paint flaked up.  Now the floor is very dry and paint stays put.  Run a dehumdifier for a couple of years and keep working bulbs in the machines.  The bulbs just keep the machines above ambient temperature.  That helps keep the damp off them, if you can heat the workshop, all the better.

Even though the inside might appear dry and dusty, itís all saturated below the surface and this needs to be driven, allowed to come out.   If we have a hot summer, get as much warm air blowing through the workshop as you can.  I used to have the roller door up and side door open to get the heat and air moving through the shop, well for the few minutes the weather was good  :lol:
Our Shop / Re: Damp proofing
« Last post by chipenter on Today at 05:08:30 AM »
One thing at a time then waterproof first , iff and when you fit studs put dpm under the sole plate as  belt and braces .
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by mattinker on Today at 05:05:15 AM »

So -assuming that I would check the ways with a machinist level, what would be the accuracy needed here ?
0.3 mm/m would tell 0.1 mm differences between the ways (they are about 15 cm apart). Is this accurate enough or do I need to go down to 0.01mm range in order to get any benefit of this procedure?

I think your missing a 0, I have a Moore and Wright that is 0.03m/metre, 0.3m/metre would be good for an ordinary level!

Regards, Matthew
Electronics & IC Programing / Which SPICE simulation program
« Last post by PekkaNF on Today at 04:51:41 AM »
Just would feel better of simulating some electrocity ideas before building it dead-bug, manhatan, or even PCB style.

I'm going to give an Autodesc Eagle a go - because it might have some synergy with fusion360. It may or many not matter on my next question:

Which flavor of Spice circuit simulation program I should try? Or do I just load TINA-TI, because first try is with some instrumentation and/or opration amplifiers and comparators?

Is one of the Spice flavors clearly better on something than another?

Do they coexist nicely?

CNC / Re: How many DDCSV external buttons ?
« Last post by picclock on Today at 04:03:28 AM »

Good to hear that its stable. Will have a go at installing it.

My feeling from playing about with the DDCSV is that the buttons on the panel are awkward and relatively frail. For instance, jut to use the pendant means two button pushes to select mpg, then another two to go back to run mode. 4 presses for a minor adjustment seems a lot to me, and I cannot see that type of button putting up with that sort of use for long. Likely membrane will split or switch will fracture its solder connections due to mechanical stress.

This is why I thought I would duplicate the most used buttons (mode, tab, shift) for tactile robust ones. As you pointed out, start, pause and estop can use external buttons straight from the back panel. So I make it 6 buttons + the usb skt  for my panel layout so far.

FWIW I reckon the pendant will use 12 core cable :-(. Its sort of on the cusp as to whether its worth doing some electrickery to use 3 core cable or wifi/infra red/bluetooth for cable less control. Could even export the mode switch (and others) to the pendant doing it this way which is much nicer. I seem to remember in one of the threads that the keyboard driver was still in situ, but I don't know enough about it as yet.

Best Regards


Our Shop / Re: Damp proofing
« Last post by John Rudd on Today at 03:34:51 AM »
Perhaps I ought to have given a bit more detail....

This is a brand new house built on a green field site.

All construction conforms to local building regs/NHBC  standards.

The dampness I refer to is occurent when it rains. So can be directional. Ie all walls do not become saturated at the same time.
I dont hink its a drainage issue. Just the fact that the type of brick used is very porous. Obviously the house bricks are the same but the dampness is nanaged within the construction of the cavity walls.

The garage floor is of slab construction with a dpm.
Our Shop / Re: Damp proofing
« Last post by chipenter on Today at 02:27:03 AM »
I would also put some drains in the perps they will also let some air in , they are easyer to fit tham air bricks .
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by chipenter on Today at 02:18:38 AM »
Thanks Pete I fogot about the minutes for a minute there , oure Eclips level has 0.5 second accuracy stamped on it .
How do I?? / Re: Accuracy of engineers level
« Last post by eskoilola on Today at 01:21:31 AM »
it is just mathematics:
If the sensitivity of that machinist level is 0.3 mm per meter this means that it can tell a 0.017 degree difference in the angle which is HUGE when compared to an arc second (0.00027 degrees).
Our Shop / Re: Damp proofing
« Last post by velocette on March 21, 2018, 11:10:20 PM »
Hi John
Disappointed I certainly would be sorry if I ramble on a bit with more questions than answers
Has the floor slab been laid on an impermeable  plastic sheet and a "Damp Course" in the outside walls. Acrylic  Paint on the outside will keep the wet out.
An air gap between the proposed studding will help if open at the top as dry air is heavier that wet air. What are ground conditions like around the foundations do they require added drainage.

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