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Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by joegoldstraw on Today at 06:29:58 PM »
I've managed to find the number 3656 stamped in it (there are more but can't remember what they were). Definitely a few bit missing from it that I'll hopefully try and get hold of.


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Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by joegoldstraw on Today at 06:28:29 PM »
Hi Joe, welcome from me...... :beer:

Nice Boxford you have, should look good once cleaned up...

Whereabouts in the NE are you?

Marske by the sea. Not sure if you know the area or not.

Yeah it will be great once I've had a fettle with it. It's currently nearly killed me once already just getting it up to the house (25 steps!!) biceps are paying the price today haha.




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The Water Cooler / Re: John Stevenson
« Last post by pycoed on Today at 06:16:20 PM »
Picked up an infection? Clumsy B@stard!
I've known John since newsgroup days & benefited greatly both from his advice & ridiculously low prices. Hope your mended soon chum
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The Design Shop / Re: Tiny Homes and Living Spaces
« Last post by sparky961 on Today at 05:55:08 PM »
Yes, that does seem to be the common solution.  But in terms if simplicity, do you think there would be a way to integrate it into the building itself? What about doing away with fans and controllers and making something passive?
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How do I?? / Re: How do I measure a spindle taper?
« Last post by mattinker on Today at 02:12:52 PM »
Good stuff mate!

Cheers, Matthew
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How do I?? / Re: How do I measure a spindle taper?
« Last post by AdeV on Today at 01:51:47 PM »
Right, well, I'm officially a happy bunny!  :ddb: :ddb:

First, drill & ream to 25mm (slightly oversize, it should be 23.5mm, but I don't mind the extra smidge of room). I should have just drilled straight out to 1" TBH, it'd have been quicker & easier, but hey ho.

Looked up the ER32 taper angle (8 degrees), set the topslide 4 degrees, cut, why won't it fit properly?  :scratch: Bloody hell, the included angle is 16 degrees! A single side of the taper is 8deg!  :bang: Re-cut with the proper angle (eyeballed on the topslide), it was close, so I fiddled with the topslide & a DTI for a bit, got it closer, a couple of minor tweaks and YAY! Bang on! (ish - it's not quite as accurate as my bought one... but it's pretty damn close).

Final steps, cut down the outer diameter to 40mm OD, make a new tool holder for the QCTP to take a threading tool (upside down.... see Joe Pieczynski's threading trick on YouTube - basically, instead of threading TO a shoulder, you thread FROM it, running the lathe backwards with the tool upside down). I nearly cut a left-hand thread, but managed to set the machine correctly before I'd done more than a scratch pass. Being a metric thread, I have to leave the machine engaged throughout the threading process, which made life a bit entertaining... it's hard to turn by hand when in gear, unless it's in a nice high gear. So... cue some single-point threading at 670rpm!  :bugeye: :zap: Fortunately, no crashes or accidents, and eventually the nut threaded on. I overdid the threads a smidgeon at the end, so the fit's a bit loose... but that doesn't matter.

Last but not least, lobbed a collet in, put a bar in it, and checked for runout (0.004" TIR - way better than I can get with the 3-jaw, and truth is I'm not sure how straight the bar is). Took a skim cut (which, naturally, reduced TIR to a couple of tenths, probably). The REALLY good news is, it cut completely parallel! First time my lathe has EVER done that (in my ownership), which I think proves that either my chucks, or the mounting face of the spindle nose, is wonky. Now that I know that, I'll probably take a few thou off the face of the spindle nose.... and start saving up for some new chucks. ALL of my chucks (I only have about 4) cut tapered, so they're obviously not going on dead true. Or they're knackered. Or both...

Anyway, I'm chuffed because I've proven to myself that my lathe CAN cut straight, and that I've got half a chance of actually making a decent ER32/ER40/ER50 chuck for it in the future. I will sleep well tonight :)

Of course... I now have to do the whole thing again, using steel this time! Although I'll probably use the Ali one until the threads expire. Other tasks to do: Make a hollow drawbar (although it seats pretty damn firmly in the lathe without one, I'd rather not risk it, especially if I ever take heavy cuts).

Now... where did I put that 2" steel bar....  :scratch:

Many thanks all for your suggestions and assistance! It's worked out really well! :nrocks:
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New from Old / Re: Eurospark H425 Die Sinker EDM reborn
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 12:19:52 PM »
Now today is Saturday so I can't open negotiations to buy new bellows until Monday - (last time they were 280 !!!! ) but there is a pile of stuff I need to clean up before then.

The radiator is utterly choked with carbon dust - it always has been in the 20 years I've had the machine, but that side has always been against a wall. Also the fan motor doesn't work - I disconnected it 15 years ago as it wasn't spinning, but similarly it wasn't accessible. Also the table and tank need cleaning but they are trivial fixes.


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New from Old / Re: Eurospark H425 Die Sinker EDM reborn
« Last post by awemawson on Today at 12:15:09 PM »
Well this certainly is reviving an old thread, but this is the logical place for the info so here goes !

Some months back I noticed that the EDM fluid in the Eurospark H425-P25 Die Sinker EDM machine had drained away  :bang:

Now the construction of this machine is quite strange. There is a central steel column about 7"  diameter, on top of which is mounted the Tee slotted work table. Up and down the column slides a fixture that mounts a tank that can be raised  hydraulically to submerge the work in EDM fluid, or lowered to give access to the work for setting up. To seal the tank to the fixture is a set of concertina bellows.

The received wisdom is to leave the tank raised when the machine is idle, so that the bellows are compressed rather than stretched for longevity, so one would expect to walk past and see fluid in the tank . . . . but there wasn't  :bang:

Now logically this means that the bellows had once more failed and would need replacing, but I'd been putting the job off as the new Tractor Shed had been taking most of my spare time. As that is now finished I decided to move the machine (only 1.25 metric tons!) to the centre of the workshop where I could get all round it and have proper access - not a luxury that I enjoyed last time four years ago.

By the time I got round to looking at it, the sliding fixture that holds the tank was firmly jammed in the 'up' position and no cajoling, pleading or even violence would shift it.

So today I had dismantled the machine far further than ever before, drained out the hugely expensive EDM fluid, removed the radiator and fan motor( that previously I've never been able to get at) - taken off the table, and the tank, and then the column itself.

Having got the column (which is far too heavy for me to lift - probably 60 -70 kgs ) out of the machine and on the floor I could apply a bit of heat and gentle persuasion with a wooden drift and lump hammer removed the sliding fixture :thumbup:

On the bench I cleaned up both the column and the bronze bearings of the slider, greased them and proved that now they moved freely - phew ! Then I replaced the column in the machine.

Now as sinker EDM machines use graphite (or copper) electrodes the machine was hideously grubby, so during this process I took no photographs - however here are some 'after the event' ones to be going on with
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The Design Shop / Re: Tiny Homes and Living Spaces
« Last post by mattinker on Today at 12:02:56 PM »
Heat exchanger to warm incoming air for ventilation!
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The Design Shop / Tiny Homes and Living Spaces
« Last post by sparky961 on Today at 11:58:04 AM »
If you haven't heard of a tiny home, you've probably been living under a rock the past few years...which, to some creatures is a tiny home, so forget that idea.  But I digress, as usual. I've been thinking more and more about the engineering requirements of such a building to sustain comfortable living in a Canadian winter.

Among my considerations are to maintain the following environmental factors:
- Atmospheric gases to safe and healthy levels (O2, CO2, CO, etc)
- Humidity in perfect balance for comfort, minimize fungal growth and insect habitat, keep skin and building materials from drying out
- Temperature maintained within a wide but reasonable level for personal comfort and safety, and with maximum efficiency

Some of the requirements are in conflict.  For example, if making a small space air tight and well insulated, there will be problems with air quality and water vapour.

What am I not yet considering?  I'd love an extremely simple solution that takes care of everything passively.... oh, to dream.
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