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21
Project Logs / Re: Minnie on the cheap!
« Last post by awemawson on October 22, 2017, 10:47:00 AM »
When broaching keyways in the lathe I first turn up a peg that fits in the centre hole flush both sides. I then drill a hole that is slightly smaller diameter than the intended keyway at the intersection of the peg and the gear leaving a D shape in both.

Then removing the peg I broach away. This way there is much less material to remove and the hole tends to guide slender tools.
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Project Logs / Re: Minnie on the cheap!
« Last post by NormanV on October 22, 2017, 10:08:02 AM »
I've also done the final drive gear with its centre. I was lucky to find a lathe change wheel of the correct DP and it was a simple job to machine it down to the correct thickness and bore it to size.
The keyways were a bit of a faff. I did them by putting a parting tool sideways in the lathe toolpost and racking it backwards and forwards taking a light cut each time. I tried it first on a piece of scrap, it was a hell of a struggle taking a lot of effort to pass the tool through the hole plus it kept digging in. I gave up and tried to make a broach, I tried to do it rough and ready and it was unsuccessful so I went back to the parting tool. After I had adjusted the gib strips it was better so I attacked the first keyway. It was still hard work but I got there. The second keyway was a doddle, I reduced the feed to one thou. for each cut and it sailed through, no dig ins. Well next mine I have to cut a keyway I'll know how to do it!
 
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Project Logs / Re: Minnie on the cheap!
« Last post by NormanV on October 22, 2017, 09:57:59 AM »
Thanks Tom.
I've machined the cable drum and the brake drum. I made the ratchet and pawl by careful marking out and filing, it wasn't worth setting up the milling machine and I get pleasure from making stuff by hand.
(the red spots are blood, I caught my finger on a burr, it was only a scratch but it wouldn't stop bleeding)
24
Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by joegoldstraw on October 22, 2017, 06:46:43 AM »
Hopefully you didn't pay a lot of money for it then. Parts do pop from time to time on eBay or Home Workshop. There is also a chap who's on the Boxford forum (Mark Lord) who breaks some for spares and is reasonably priced. I have his email address if you want to contact him.

I gave 150 for it off a lad at work. Seemed reasonable even with all the bits missing. Hopefully it won't. It's the earth to get back up to spec. I already have a few expensive hobbies haha


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25
Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by seadog on October 22, 2017, 06:40:27 AM »
Hopefully you didn't pay a lot of money for it then. Parts do pop from time to time on eBay or Home Workshop. There is also a chap who's on the Boxford forum (Mark Lord) who breaks some for spares and is reasonably priced. I have his email address if you want to contact him.
26
How do I?? / Re: How do I measure a spindle taper?
« Last post by PekkaNF on October 22, 2017, 06:37:13 AM »
Sucksess tastes sweet. Good work.

Sometimes sucsess tastes tomatoes - if you are entertainer in wild west, or easts, or south!

Pekka
27
Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by joegoldstraw on October 22, 2017, 06:25:26 AM »
3656 is the Boxford factory model number.

http://www.boxford-software.com/spares/3656menu.html

Thank you. Everything that drives the auto feed is missing so I'm going to need that


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28
The Design Shop / Re: Tiny Homes and Living Spaces
« Last post by PekkaNF on October 22, 2017, 04:41:30 AM »
How that works depends strongly least on following factors:

Climate/location: Do you need insulation for heating, cooling or both? When cooled or heated, does moisture condensates on the structure? Does building code dictae certain structures or energy efficiency that pretty much dictate forced air exhange vs. free/gravitation?

What materials you can use? Solid log or brick buildings tend to be more straight forward to build and they work pretty good, but multilayer structures with membranes, insulations, building boards, palstic covered tapestries etc. can conspire against you.

What is your life style? Old log cabin style dwellng works fine - until you bring dishwasher, shower and lanundry inside. If you have wood fired firepalce, use it every dayi n the winter and open windows for 20 mins, you can cope well without any other technology. But if you build "passive" house, there is no way you can keep the moisture out of the house, insulation without some sort of active energy/control system.

There has been very much recearch on that topic and much politics and even more building codes, but very little awareness where it all leads.

Pekka
29
Introductions / Re: Hi there from north east.
« Last post by seadog on October 22, 2017, 04:17:30 AM »
3656 is the Boxford factory model number.

http://www.boxford-software.com/spares/3656menu.html
30
The Design Shop / Re: Tiny Homes and Living Spaces
« Last post by mattinker on October 22, 2017, 03:13:17 AM »
I may be wrong but I suspect that you would have to move the air with an outside source of energy as heating the incoming air will probably cancel out the thermo-syphon effect. It would only take a very small amount of energy to move the air through.
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