Recent Posts

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21
Announcements & Issues / Re: Rob Wilson.
« Last post by John Rudd on May 26, 2017, 05:36:26 PM »
I spoke with Rob today, he is ok, just been very busy of late with work commitments...Hopefully he will rejoin us soon with his latest ventures :dremel:
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Announcements & Issues / Re: Rob Wilson.
« Last post by gerritv on May 26, 2017, 05:09:51 PM »
I hope he is ok, he seems to have vanished.....

Gerrit
23
Project Logs / Re: New bowsprit
« Last post by Charles on May 26, 2017, 05:04:35 PM »
Machined parts to go with the wood work...

At one end of the bowsprit there is a sheave used to pass a rope around which pulls the sail out to the end of the spar...

First the bearing, simply a piece of phosphor bronze, 25mm OD, 20mm ID, part off at 12mm.

The sheave itself started as a piece of 12mm Delrin sheet, roughed out on the bandsaw. A hole was drilled and tapped in the centre to allow mounting on a mandrel, then it was turned down round at 120mm diameter, a rope groove cut into the edge with a homemade form tool, the faces relieved with the same form tool. Next, gripping it on the outer edge the centre was bored to 25mm then the phosphor bronze bushing pressed into the centre using the tailstock. The axle was turned from 316 stainless, an M6 hole was made in each end, this will secure a small plate on each end which will then be screwed to the spar to retain the axel in place.
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Neat Stuff / Re: homemade vice and what a vice.
« Last post by shipto on May 26, 2017, 04:58:01 PM »
OK, How many man hours??  That thing is a beast.

I will say that I DID see welding undercuts, or "V"ing when he was welding.  I'm teaching myself to weld with a 90 amp flux core rig.  So please don't even think I know WTH I'm talking about.
wow talk about learning the hard way, however if its what you have then crack on it will make for a even better experience if you ever get the chance to use a professional rig.
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Project Logs / New bowsprit
« Last post by Charles on May 26, 2017, 04:54:18 PM »
So, the bowsprit (stick that pokes out of the front) on my sailing yacht got bust in a gale last winter, so I need to make a new one - woodwork in this post, some machined parts to follow...

First, source some clean straight-grained Douglas fir, I need a finished spar of 115mm diameter, so I'm aiming to make a square blank of 120mm, so that's 4 pieces 120 x 30 x 3.7m long. These pieces were laminated together using epoxy, first, a thinned coat wait 30 minutes or so for it to soak in, then an undiluted coat, stack the piece up and use a vacuum bag to clamp the pieces together. The supporting trestles were carefully spaced while the epoxy cured, so the spar (should) be neither sagging nor hogging...

Once cured, the blank was passed through the thicknesser to bring it down to its finished size of 115mm square.

Next, a slot was cut right through at one end to accept the outhaul sheave, this was simply chain drilled, and cut with a chisel as for a mortice and tenon joint. The axel hole was also drilled at this stage.

Next, I made a spar gauge from a scrap of wood, positioning the holes with the mill to make it accurate, and the holes plum. The lines this tool makes are the edges of a perfect octagon. Next step is to make remove the corners with a power planer to make the square section octagonal. Then using a hand plane make the octagon round, then sandpaper to remove the plane marks.

I reckon this job has now generated 1 entire wheelie bin full of wood shavings...
26
Tools / Re: test dial indicator types and their uses
« Last post by philf on May 26, 2017, 04:50:20 PM »
Do you mean that kind of lever indicator that needle turns allways clockwise when stylus moves up or down?

Or that positive is when stylys moves "up"?

Because I have used one that was really confusing...I was convinced that it was a practical joke.

Pekka

Hi Pekka,

My Mitutoyo lever indicator rotates both ways.

I have a Compac lever indicator which would really confuse you - or at least it confuses me.

The dial is 0-5-0 (where 5 is 0.05mm) - divisions are 0.002mm - there is a subsidiary dial numbered 0 to 7 (8 is the same as 0) which indicates the number of full turns of the main pointer.

There is a 'switch' on the side of the body which selects the direction the probe lever operates in. With the switch in one position the main pointer moves anticlockwise whilst the pointer on the subsidiary dial moves clockwise from 0 to 1 to 2 etc.

With the 'switch' in the other position the main pointer moves clockwise and the subsidiary dial goes anticlockwise from 0 to 7 to 6 etc. back to 0.  :scratch:

I've probably only used it once.

Phil.
27
Tools / Re: test dial indicator types and their uses
« Last post by PekkaNF on May 26, 2017, 02:01:50 PM »
Thank you Phil,

Hi Pekka,

I suppose if you're using the dial indicator on a comparator stand the 0-100-0 might be easier to read. Otherwise I think it's down to personal preference and my preference is for the straight 0-100 type.

I was thinking this comparator feature on plunger type....I'm not still convinced that it is the only reason.

I have a Mitutoyo lever type indicator and that indicates in either direction. You can rotate the dial so that you get "0" at half travel. I hardly ever use the lever type nowadays.

Phil.

Do you mean that kind of lever indicator that needle turns allways clockwise when stylus moves up or down?

Or that positive is when stylys moves "up"?

Because I have used one that was really confusing...I was convinced that it was a practical joke.

Pekka
28
Project Logs / Re: 3D printer build log
« Last post by PekkaNF on May 26, 2017, 01:48:33 PM »
This is very interesting thread.

.....
Onwards and sideways

I was told " Wet fly - down and across" :wave:

Pekka
29
How do I?? / Re: Gib Strip for a Capco Surface Grinder
« Last post by Pete. on May 26, 2017, 01:40:36 PM »
If it's not a tapered gib then it must be screw and locknut. There's no reason at all why you couldn't make it in two halves.
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CNC / Re: Cetus3D 3D Printer
« Last post by efrench on May 26, 2017, 01:35:28 PM »
If you print the buttons in ABS, you can use acetone vapor to polish them.

ABS sticks well to 3M painters tape, so a heated bed isn't necessary.
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