Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on Today at 11:04:38 AM »
Hi Folks
This fortnight I managed about two days in the field, and one in the workshop, so a very mixed bag of phone and camera footage about as chaotic as my fortnight turned out to be! The rest of my time was taken up with spring chores, family commitments, a day bird watching at our local nature reserve ( a 5-1/2 mile walk in the countryside around our local water works at Watton) etc etc! With Emily now back at uni for the forseeable, I am hoping to get more done! Fun with fires in the field, and a day of antique repairs with Andy, whats not to like? probably most of it!! LOL
Phil, Still jumper weather in East Yorkshire
2
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 09, 2026, 10:49:23 AM »
Thanks greatly for pics!  :beer:
I had my old Blueberry flip-phone for so long, I keep forgetting that my new flip-phone has a camera.  It doesn't have the anti-blur capability of my camera so sometimes it takes several attempts to get a decent shot.
3
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by vtsteam on April 08, 2026, 07:50:00 PM »
Thanks greatly for pics!  :beer:
4
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 06, 2026, 09:13:30 PM »
Today was spent putting the Y axis leadnut assembly together. I started with your standard 3D printer anti-backlash leadnut, looks like this when assembled on the leadscrew.


This is just 2 modified leadnuts assembled back to back with a spring between them.. The spring keeps the 2 halves of the nut separated, removing the backlash, and a tab/slot arrangement keeps them in sync. This works fine for the minimal tool pressure of a 3D printer. BUT, and there's always a big butt, any tool pressure that opposes the travel will overpower that wimpy little spring and your backlash is back - don't think that'll do the surface finish any favors.

I remembered that Awesome CNC Freak had modified his 1310 machine to deal with backlash, so I did some digging - and then quite happily swiped his idea. This was the test rig I built.


It proved the concept. By using the nut to squeeze the 2 halves together you eliminate the thread backlash, and it's much more rigid. It does take careful adjustment though, you go from free falling to totally locked up in 1/4 turn of the nut. The bolts I used on the test rig weren't long enough though, the nylocks wouldn't lock - going from M3x35mm to M3x40mm bolts solved that problem. The bolts also keep the 2 halves in cync. This is what the business end of the Y axis anti-backlash leadnut assembly looks like.

That part will be buried between the Y axis bearing blocks though. This is all you'll see.


OK, OK, if you ignore the bit in the lower LH corner - THAT's what you'll see. Really shoulda cropped that picture.
5
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 06, 2026, 01:46:49 AM »
Ever have one of those Hokey-Pokey days? The days you take one step forward, one step back, then two steps forward? Today was one of those days.

It started out well enough, I got pilot holes drilled every place in the Y axis leadnut plate that needed a hole. Four of the nine holes were locations that needed to be tapped M3, so I just used the M3 tap drill for all the pilot holes. I needed an 11mm hole, actually I need 10.5mm but a little wiggle room isn't going to hurt. I ain't got no metric drills, what I've got are a set of number drills and a set of fractional drills from 1/16" to 1/2" - by 1/64" increments. So far that has fallen well within the tolerances of my gub-mint contracts. Anyhew, I got the big hole drilled, so I could check the leadscrew alignment with the leadnut plate.

Annnndddd.... It didn't fit as planned. I needed to move the plate about 2mm closer to the Y axis extrusions. Which meant that in addition to being too short, the plate is now also interfering with the mounting bolts for the Y axis rails. Oh Happy-Happy Joy-Joy! There IS a silver lining though, I had a proven hole layout, I knew what needed fixing, and I knew how to fix it. The second time you make a part really is faster than the first time, practice makes perfect I guess.

I knew that there was no way on God's green earth that I was going to be able to drill and tap four M3 bolt holes with everything on the rails, so I came up with a work-around. I took a careful measurement of the distance from the edge of the leadnut plate to the edge of the bearing plate, and clamped the leadnut plate in place. After carefully removing both plates, they were transferred to the vise where a transfer punch was used to mark the center of one hole - didn't want to push my luck. After drilling and tapping the hole M3, I used the M3 bolt to clamp the leadnut plate in place to mark the other hole. Rinse-lather-repeat and all the holes in the Y axis bearing plate are now drilled and tapped.

That just leaves the M3 hole that needs to be drilled and tapped in each of the far side Y axis bearing blocks. Back to the machine to partially reassemble the Y axis bearings and bearing block. I didn't need to put EVERYTHING back together, I just needed the far side bearings blocks tight enough that they wouldn't move when I slid the bearings off the rails. I took the side plate off the nearside of the machine, slid the Y axis close to the end of the rails and removed the near side bearings, setting them aside. I was then able to remove the rest of the Y axis assembly from the rails, clamp it firmly in the vise, and use a transfer punch to mark the hole locations for the M3 bolts. I then removed the bearings from the plate, covered the bearing openings with tape to keep the swarf out, and drilled and tapped the holes for M3 bolts. I then started putting this part of the machine back together - for what I hope to God is the last time.

Anywho, this is what the Y axis looks like now.  (vtsteam - I'm usually too lazy/busy/forgetful to remember to take pictures.)

Like I said, the offset leadscrew makes the plate look a little goofy. Everything is just loosely assembled right now, and since I took the side plate off I'll need to align the rails to the bed again. That's not the actual leadnut, I need to build the anti-backlash nut and the leadnut plate together as an assembly. The four M3 button-heads hold the leadnut plate/leadnut assembly to the rest of the Y axis assembly so maintenance will be fairly easy.
6
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by vtsteam on April 05, 2026, 02:34:32 PM »
Don, I try to visualize in your posts what you are describing, but often fail. Even a pencil sketch on a photographed napkin might help me "get it". Otherwise, just in general, sounds like you're making progress, and I'm looking forward to seeing the completed mill!  :beer:
7
Thank you.

I agree the sharp edge and narrow contact area for the balls is a potential concern for future wear.  For the time being I'm just being careful not to wind them up with a torque wrench, just nip them.  I suppose the cyanoacrylate will help spread the load a little as well.   Another approach I've seen is to have a machined 'V' groove to locate and align the runners.

Having spent the afternoon depthing and measuring, it seems to have done the job.  To fit the barrel arbor I made a couple of press on adapters with larger coned sockets.  These are partially reamed 4mm but left the taper lead in of the reamer at the end so they wedge onto the end of the runner and thus saved me having to make an extra pair of runners with larger sockets.


Ian
8
Nicely made tool.

I always felt the design was overly dependent on the edges of the holes , and perhaps I should have thought of something more robust.

Looks good though  :D
9
CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 05, 2026, 01:45:22 AM »
I spent most of the day double and triple checking the 3D model against the machine as it currently sits, and found a couple of discrepancies - those got corrected. Last week I picked up a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/2" x 48" HRS barstock, only it was 1/8" plate that had been sheared to 1-1/2" width and I'm OK with that. The problem is that for some reason I had modeled this as 34mm wide and it actually measures at 38mm. I fixed the model, but then I had to be sure that everything was in the proper location. which is not as easy as you'd think. The leadnut plate is centered on the Y axis bearing plate, but the leadscrew is not centered on the plate. While I'm changing a LOT on this machine, I tried to move the minimum amount of hardware from its' original location as possible. When I changed the original Y axis 2020 extrusions to 2040 extrusions, I used the original mounting holes as my starting point. I also kept the original location of the Y axis leadscrew, this was not without consequences. By a happy coincidence the centerline of the leadscrew and the centerline of the Y axis rails all align vertically.

However, the leadscrew's horizontal centerline is 3mm below the horizontal centerline of the 2 rails. This leads to an asymmetrical and somewhat goofy looking leadscrew plate. I've got the layout done on the plate and got the holes center popped. I've even got it cut out, filed, and sanded. The layout lines on the Y axis bearing plates match with the layout lines on the leadnut plate. I'm going to drill an 8mm hole for the leadscrew and make sure that's in the right spot before I do anything else. That'll give me a chance to possibly fix it if I did make-a-da-boo-boo. There's not a lot of wiggle room in some areas, the model shows that I SHOULD have about 8-9mm of clearance between base of the Y axis rails and the leadnut plate. The problem is that I didn't model the heads of the mounting bolts for those rails. I've got MAYBE 2mm, but clearance is clearance Clarence.
10
Thanks Ian. That's a beautiful tool, and photos as well.  :beer:

And especially for contributing a drawing!
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10