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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 13, 2026, 11:31:08 PM »
I had a couple of 3D printing milestones recently, I started printing with something other than PLA and the P1S glitched on me.  Although in all honesty I probably made it worse than it should have been. 

I decided to try PETG, and I wanted to get the scaling dialed in to correct for shrinkage.  I decided that I might as well be printing something useful to do this testing.  My new spindle uses an ER11 collet, so I found an STL for a chip fan that presses onto the collet nut.  The friendly Google AI said the scaling factor should be 100.3-100.8%, so I scaled the fan to 100.5% and gave it a shot, way too tight.  I scaled it to 100.8% and printed it again. It takes less than 1/2 hour to print the fan - including the 7+ minutes the P1S uses for setup on every print.  It was still too tight, but I could force it on the nut.  I printed it again, this time scaled to 101.5%.  It presses onto the nut, not all the way, but since I didn't design the fan I can only guess the designers intentions.  I WAS going to print a fan scaled to 102%, but that's when the glitch occurred.  I started the print and left to do something else.  When I came back about 15 minutes later I had a bird's nest on the print bed.  It happens, so I did what I do when the D6 screws up late at night - I shut off the power and went to bed.

When I got up the next day and fired up the printer it was not happy with me, the AMS was making very unhappy noises.  I realized that I SHOULD have aborted the print, then shut off the power and gone to bed.  Ain't 20/20 hindsight just wondermus though?  I realized that the filament had frozen in the extruder and that I needed to get it out of the hot end so the AMS could retract it and be happy again.  But, I needed to do that before the AMS was powered up.  I decided to try unplugging the AMS, heat up the hot end, and see if I could pull the filament back by hand - to see if that would work.  I did, and it did - so I decided to try printing again.  All seemed to go well, until it tried starting to print about 50mm above the print bed.  All I could do was abort the print and hang my head in shame wondering "What the Hell did I do to this poor machine?"  Before I contacted Bambu Labs and confessed my sins, I wanted to run the initial calibration cycle again.  I wanted to see if that would let the printer find its' lost marbles. 

I'm proud to report that it worked and the plastic pooping robot is now about 7 hours into an 8 hour print.  That print will give me the Z axis rail holder, and the bearing block that will slide on those rails.

Don
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Gallery / Re: USS Monitor Steam Engine Drawings -Free
« Last post by vtsteam on April 13, 2026, 09:11:40 PM »
Again, thank you Rich for this remarkable gift!  :beer:
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Gallery / Re: USS Monitor Steam Engine Drawings -Free
« Last post by Rich Carlstedt on April 13, 2026, 06:45:46 PM »
What a Klutz  !

I meant to add that anyone who wants the drawings can also send me a note here using messages or use my direct address - grnbaystmr  "AT"  gbonline.com - the AT used here is to divert web searches and spam . use the ast...  and    no dashes

Send theirr home email and I will send them by email in 5 packages .. It's like 29 Meg donload in one shot
and that would get me in trouble with my provider. 
IMPORTANT , The Subject line must say MONITOR  in Caps
Rich
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Gallery / Re: USS Monitor Steam Engine Drawings -Free
« Last post by tom osselton on April 13, 2026, 05:56:42 PM »
Thanks for the info  :beer:
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Gallery / Re: USS Monitor Steam Engine Drawings -Free
« Last post by Rich Carlstedt on April 13, 2026, 03:35:43 PM »
Up Date 2026 - April 13

Yes, The drawings were withdrawn during a web site revision two years ago, sorry about that .
I have been advised they will  be re-posted, and will return to the same web site
It may take a few more weeks for that to occur, so keep trying .

I have spent the past 5 years writing a book (technical) on the engine and all of it's components to help those who downloaded the drawings and those
who wish to know more about the engines' operations and design  and other data from my research
That book is very close to completion and I hope to have it published before years end so I can go back to modeling.
Thank You for your patience , This is a not for profit undertaking

Rich
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Member Videos / Re: My week this week, my workshop videos!
« Last post by hermetic on April 11, 2026, 11:04:38 AM »
Hi Folks
This fortnight I managed about two days in the field, and one in the workshop, so a very mixed bag of phone and camera footage about as chaotic as my fortnight turned out to be! The rest of my time was taken up with spring chores, family commitments, a day bird watching at our local nature reserve ( a 5-1/2 mile walk in the countryside around our local water works at Watton) etc etc! With Emily now back at uni for the forseeable, I am hoping to get more done! Fun with fires in the field, and a day of antique repairs with Andy, whats not to like? probably most of it!! LOL
Phil, Still jumper weather in East Yorkshire
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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 09, 2026, 10:49:23 AM »
Thanks greatly for pics!  :beer:
I had my old Blueberry flip-phone for so long, I keep forgetting that my new flip-phone has a camera.  It doesn't have the anti-blur capability of my camera so sometimes it takes several attempts to get a decent shot.
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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by vtsteam on April 08, 2026, 07:50:00 PM »
Thanks greatly for pics!  :beer:
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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 06, 2026, 09:13:30 PM »
Today was spent putting the Y axis leadnut assembly together. I started with your standard 3D printer anti-backlash leadnut, looks like this when assembled on the leadscrew.


This is just 2 modified leadnuts assembled back to back with a spring between them.. The spring keeps the 2 halves of the nut separated, removing the backlash, and a tab/slot arrangement keeps them in sync. This works fine for the minimal tool pressure of a 3D printer. BUT, and there's always a big butt, any tool pressure that opposes the travel will overpower that wimpy little spring and your backlash is back - don't think that'll do the surface finish any favors.

I remembered that Awesome CNC Freak had modified his 1310 machine to deal with backlash, so I did some digging - and then quite happily swiped his idea. This was the test rig I built.


It proved the concept. By using the nut to squeeze the 2 halves together you eliminate the thread backlash, and it's much more rigid. It does take careful adjustment though, you go from free falling to totally locked up in 1/4 turn of the nut. The bolts I used on the test rig weren't long enough though, the nylocks wouldn't lock - going from M3x35mm to M3x40mm bolts solved that problem. The bolts also keep the 2 halves in cync. This is what the business end of the Y axis anti-backlash leadnut assembly looks like.

That part will be buried between the Y axis bearing blocks though. This is all you'll see.


OK, OK, if you ignore the bit in the lower LH corner - THAT's what you'll see. Really shoulda cropped that picture.
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CNC / Re: It's new to me
« Last post by ddmckee54 on April 06, 2026, 01:46:49 AM »
Ever have one of those Hokey-Pokey days? The days you take one step forward, one step back, then two steps forward? Today was one of those days.

It started out well enough, I got pilot holes drilled every place in the Y axis leadnut plate that needed a hole. Four of the nine holes were locations that needed to be tapped M3, so I just used the M3 tap drill for all the pilot holes. I needed an 11mm hole, actually I need 10.5mm but a little wiggle room isn't going to hurt. I ain't got no metric drills, what I've got are a set of number drills and a set of fractional drills from 1/16" to 1/2" - by 1/64" increments. So far that has fallen well within the tolerances of my gub-mint contracts. Anyhew, I got the big hole drilled, so I could check the leadscrew alignment with the leadnut plate.

Annnndddd.... It didn't fit as planned. I needed to move the plate about 2mm closer to the Y axis extrusions. Which meant that in addition to being too short, the plate is now also interfering with the mounting bolts for the Y axis rails. Oh Happy-Happy Joy-Joy! There IS a silver lining though, I had a proven hole layout, I knew what needed fixing, and I knew how to fix it. The second time you make a part really is faster than the first time, practice makes perfect I guess.

I knew that there was no way on God's green earth that I was going to be able to drill and tap four M3 bolt holes with everything on the rails, so I came up with a work-around. I took a careful measurement of the distance from the edge of the leadnut plate to the edge of the bearing plate, and clamped the leadnut plate in place. After carefully removing both plates, they were transferred to the vise where a transfer punch was used to mark the center of one hole - didn't want to push my luck. After drilling and tapping the hole M3, I used the M3 bolt to clamp the leadnut plate in place to mark the other hole. Rinse-lather-repeat and all the holes in the Y axis bearing plate are now drilled and tapped.

That just leaves the M3 hole that needs to be drilled and tapped in each of the far side Y axis bearing blocks. Back to the machine to partially reassemble the Y axis bearings and bearing block. I didn't need to put EVERYTHING back together, I just needed the far side bearings blocks tight enough that they wouldn't move when I slid the bearings off the rails. I took the side plate off the nearside of the machine, slid the Y axis close to the end of the rails and removed the near side bearings, setting them aside. I was then able to remove the rest of the Y axis assembly from the rails, clamp it firmly in the vise, and use a transfer punch to mark the hole locations for the M3 bolts. I then removed the bearings from the plate, covered the bearing openings with tape to keep the swarf out, and drilled and tapped the holes for M3 bolts. I then started putting this part of the machine back together - for what I hope to God is the last time.

Anywho, this is what the Y axis looks like now.  (vtsteam - I'm usually too lazy/busy/forgetful to remember to take pictures.)

Like I said, the offset leadscrew makes the plate look a little goofy. Everything is just loosely assembled right now, and since I took the side plate off I'll need to align the rails to the bed again. That's not the actual leadnut, I need to build the anti-backlash nut and the leadnut plate together as an assembly. The four M3 button-heads hold the leadnut plate/leadnut assembly to the rest of the Y axis assembly so maintenance will be fairly easy.
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