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Author Topic: Swingup external threading tool  (Read 10873 times)
andyf
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« Reply #30 on: December 07, 2009, 08:11:36 am »

How about a thin metal shield, as C-o-C below, attached to the swinging part at points X, and covering the top and front of both the swinging and fixed parts? The top and front of the swingy bit would each need to stand slightly proud of the top and front of the fixed part, and swarf might still get in if the top of the shield had to be narrow so as not to foul the toolpost dovetail and any height adjuster on the fixed part.

Andy

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I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short
bogstandard
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« Reply #31 on: December 07, 2009, 11:07:30 am »

Andy,

That is the sort of idea I mentioned.

At the moment, I have to get back into the shop and finish it off, and a shield will only be considered now after I see what is going to happen during the try out.

I don't want things to get too clouded by 'maybe' problems.


John
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bogstandard
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« Reply #32 on: December 07, 2009, 05:10:37 pm »

I didn't manage to get into the shop until this evening, so I rushed thru everything, then took some piccy's of what I had made.

The first thing was to get the holes drilled and tapped. I located the swing arm onto the little block and clamped it down onto the block top face, then the pivot position was drilled and threaded. The other holes were just for tool clamping screws and the height adjustment for the main block.




A pair of phos bronze flanged bushes were made up and reamed 8mm. They had flange thicknesses that were in line with the gaps required and the position of the block. I also knocked up a stepped pivot bolt. I made the length so that when it was fully tightened down, the swing arm still had a few thou side to side play only at the pivot point, there was no rock at all at the cutter tip. If this play causes a problem, the bolt shoulders can easily be adjusted to snug things up a little.




A bit of threaded rod and a height adjusting knob were easily knocked up.




These are all the bits now assembled, and the tool completely finished. I had to fine tune the block a tiny bit as it was still a little tight, by removing a few tenths and a dab of oil on the block and pivot, the swing arm now easily rattles up and down, and no sign of side play at all. I'm very happy with the results and how well it went together.




This is now set up for correct height on my machine.




I just didn't have time tonight to get a trial done, and from very early tomorrow morning, I have personal things to do that will leave me incapacitated for a couple of days, so I am sorry, you will have to wait a little longer. I would like to do a vid of the results if they are satisfactory, unfortunately I don't have a camera mount for my machinery yet (another tuit), so you will have to take my word for it.


Bogs.
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andyf
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« Reply #33 on: December 07, 2009, 05:23:29 pm »

Looks terrific, Bogs 

It'll be interesting to see how well it works, once circumstances permit.

Andy
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I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short
mklotz
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« Reply #34 on: December 07, 2009, 05:27:00 pm »

I'm sorry, John, but I'm having an attack of the stupids here.

It looks to me like the tool can only swing up only a tiny amount - a degree or two.  Is that enough to clear a thread while you wind the carriage to the right?  Do you swing it up with your finger - there doesn't seem to be a handle in sight?

Do a befuddled colonial a favor and snap a few pics of it being retracted and/or provide a few words about how it's used in anger.

BTW, it looks stunning.  I wouldn't bother you with these questions but Santa is bringing me a QCTP and I'd love to make one of these assuming I can understand its operation.
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bogstandard
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« Reply #35 on: December 07, 2009, 05:55:46 pm »

Not 'stupids' at all Marv. It took a little bit to get my head around it.

The only problem is that it will only work on a machine where you can reverse the the whole machine including rotation of the chuck.

Just to explain basically how it SHOULD work.

There is no manual retracting of the cutter at all.

As you know, under certain conditions, you have to leave the leadscrew engaged when cutting threads, on my machine, whenever I cut Imperial threads. When you cannot use the drop in dial.

You take a threading cut as normal, when you reach the end where you usually retract the tool with the cross slide, you don't retract, you just put the machine into reverse, to take the tool back to the beginning. As the tool starts to go back along the thread just cut, because the chuck is running in reverse, the tip of the tool is lifted by the non cutting action. It should only be a few thou lift, that bit has to be tried out yet.

When it reaches the start point again, the tip should automatically drop to the cutting position, so another cut is put on with the compound and run in the normal way. It should work for cutting both right and left hand threads.

If it works, it saves having to retract the tool, and then reset it to zero each time. It does away completely with that part of the cutting regime.

Not a very good explanation Marv, but I hope it strikes a light.

All we need now is to see the work wasn't all in vain. If it doesn't work, shrug shoulders, at least we tried.


John
« Last Edit: December 07, 2009, 06:55:11 pm by bogstandard » Logged
Darren
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« Reply #36 on: December 07, 2009, 05:59:37 pm »

Like Marv I was wonderin' 

But I gedit now  Ain't that clever thinking Mr B ... 


Fingers crossed it don't chatter during cutting, I surely hope not cos I'd like to copy that little marvel .... 
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mklotz
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« Reply #37 on: December 07, 2009, 06:07:38 pm »

Thanks a heap, Bogs.

I've got it now.  My confusion arose because I was thinking of more traditional threading using the threading dial - put on a cut, disengage half nuts, lift tool to run carriage back without retracting cross slide, put in more cut on compound, drop tool, wait for threading dial, reengage half nuts and make another cut.

Now that I see you're moving the carriage to the right under power to avoid losing sync, it's all pretty obvious.

Very ingenious.  I hope it all works under fire.
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NickG
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« Reply #38 on: December 07, 2009, 06:49:15 pm »

Looks great John and should work fine - I get it too now! 

Nick
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The Collective
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« Reply #39 on: December 07, 2009, 07:38:13 pm »

I've just read through all this.... Still playing catch up  Roll Eyes



Nice looking tooling there John..... You said it was high on the list...... All confidence in the testing when you get to it 





Ralph.
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sbwhart
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« Reply #40 on: December 08, 2009, 02:22:13 am »

Penny dropped now John 

Great work

Stew
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Stilldrillin
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« Reply #41 on: December 08, 2009, 04:39:54 am »

"I can see clearly now the rain has gone".......  Roll Eyes

Gotcher..... Now! 

Great work John.

David D
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Bernd
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« Reply #42 on: December 08, 2009, 09:27:53 am »

Like Marv, I had the same question as to how exactly it was supposed to function.

What hasn't been mentioned is the backlash or gear wind up in the gearing system of the lathe. When reversing the lathe wouldn't there be a delay from the time that chuck starts to spin backwards to the time the lead screw starts moving the carriage backwards? Seems to me the tool would be cutting the backside of the thread you just cut or even maybe cut the thread in half depending on the gear train backlash.

To me it would see that if there was "0" backlash through the whole gear train a swingup threading tool wouldn't be needed.

Perhaps Marv is right in his assumption that the tool should be lifed clear of the work altogether!

Bernd
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Darren
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« Reply #43 on: December 08, 2009, 09:41:15 am »

Bernd, I believe because the tool can lift then there will be no pressure to do any cutting (even with the back edge) The tool should simply ride the waves.
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NickG
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« Reply #44 on: December 08, 2009, 09:51:03 am »

Bernd,

Good point about the backlash, I've wondered that too but I think as Darren says it will just ride up the thread a little and it's going in reverse so there isn't a cutting edge on the work. Might put minor marks on it but doubt it the pressure will be so light it would just be like a nut going up the thread.

Nick
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