Camlock D1-4 Adapter plate

[DaveH]

Hi,
I am going to make a Camlock D1-4 Adapter plate, this shows how I went about it.

I decided to make a copy of the nose spindle – just the taper. This will be my gauge for the internal taper of the adapter plate. I thought this is the best way for me to “measure” the taper in the adapter plate.

The first thing I decided to do was to orientate the compound slide to give the correct taper (angle).
Using a DTI to get it as close as possible. A little tedious but with patience and care it is possible to get a zero reading along the taper. Until you tighten it down that is!!.




So that done put the chuck back on. I’m using some aluminium to make the taper gauge, mainly because I didn’t have any steel of a suitable size.
A quick face.




I then turned down a “boss”     2.5005inches dia  x 10mm deep, I then proceeded to cut the taper, using the compound slide.




Now it starts to get a little tedious again and messy.
I need something to gauge the taper, I chose my 4 jaw chuck, I could have used the face plate – a lot lighter, only thought of that now!
It also necessitated the removal of the locking pins from the chuck.  




Now it is just a case of seeing how well the taper fits. Using engineers blue and moving the compound slide accordingly.
The compound slide needs only very slight adjustment. To help I place a dial gauge on the compound slide to help me with the slight adjustment. I had to make two adjustments before I was happy.
 



Then I got this – near enough.




I just cleaned up the outer diameter.



And that’s the taper gauge done.

Just have to get the engineers blue off my hands, face, glasses, and my brand new camera – tis’ messy stuff.

Now to start the adapter plate proper.

 
DaveH

[dsquire]

Dave

Were any Yellow Frogs harmed in the making of this report? 

Cheers 

Don

[DaveH]

Don,

No, none wouldn't dream of doing such a thing.

I post photos so all can see.!!!!

 

 
DaveH

[Bogstandard]

Just to put you out of your misery, because I know you miss them so much, here is Mr & Mrs frog.


Jack and Jill




Jill is always bigger because we all know who is boss.




Looks like you got that taper nailed OK

Nice one.


John

[DaveH]

Hi John,

Some really fine knashers there

 
DaveH

[arnoldb]

Nice going Dave 

  For a moment I was scared there might be some yellow frogs amongst your photos; wouldn't want our hosting site to get infected 
At least John's frogs seem friendlier 

I hope you closed that tube of engineer's blue tightly...  I'm just 2000 km away and that stuff can get around...   Imagine what a mess I sat with just over two years ago when I started with home shop engineering...  I went to the tool suppliers here and asked for engineer's blue thinking that was the stuff all the people on the forums used for laying out on parts...  Their photos always showed such nicely darkened areas, so I applied the stuff liberally...  With my fingers...  Just imagine the mess    There's still some parts of my shop that's off-limits because there's Prussian blue crawling around wild

 , a cold and cold-infested Arnold

[DaveH]

Thanks Arnold,

, a cold and cold-infested Arnold

I do hope you haven't infected my post with your cold

Look after yourself, keep warm

 
DaveH

[DaveH]

This will be the Adapter plate.

A billet of 110mm dia BMS, was faced and the out side lightly skimmed, I now have the face and the out side of the billet perpendicular to each other. This is the face that will have the taper to fit to the lathe nose spindle, it is best not to remove it from the chuck at this stage.


 
I then decided to mark the PCD of the pins and lightly centre punch. (Just in case). I may not need or use them, depends when I go to the mill and how I feel.


Drilled a thro, hole 17mm and bored a hole 60mmdia x 12mm deep.


Now we come to do the taper, I haven’t reset the compound slide so it is still set to the correct taper (Hopefully!). To cut the taper turn the boring bar upside down and reset to the correct height begin to cut the taper furthest from you with the lathe running in its normal forward mode.


Keep trying the gauge until it goes in the exact mount as it did for the four jaw chuck I used, use a feeler gauge to measure and check


And there it is.


Now I will turn it around and face the other side, to give a nice face for the operation on the mill.

DaveH

[DaveH]

After a bit of drilling, tapping and counter boring. Still needs to be de-burred and cleaned but I couldn’t resist just trying one.


All cleaned and de-burred, now it is back to the lathe.


Just needed a 55mm dia register cut, by 3.5 mm deep.


And thats the Camlock D1-4 Adapter Plate finished




Now wasn’t that exciting!
 
DaveH

[dickda1]

Very nice work!
-Dick

[doubleboost]

very nice 
John

[Bogstandard]

Very nice indeed Dave.

Now show the lads the video of the runout, it's nothing to be ashamed of.


John

[DaveH]

Dick, John & John - Thanks,

John - the zero run out video - nah "too good to be true" - but it was.

Thanks guys, now I'm off to make an ER25 collet chuck to fit the D1-4 adapter plate just made.

 

DaveH