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Red lathe woes..or 'The joy of owning a piece of history'

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DavidA:
Norman,

I mean that the Morse taper socket in the head stock mandrel (spindle) has been damaged sometime in the past by, apparently, someone trying to bore it out. Maybe in an attempt to true it up. I can only guess what the original problem was.

I suspect a taper reamer would try to follow the damaged bore and would not end up in the right place. I need to bore it out first.

I'll probably make a temporary extension to the slotted table so I can mount the topslide closer to the headstock. A slab of 1/2" steel plate milled flat and bolted on should do it.

As I don't use the Morse taper in my normal work,  it is really just to bring it back to how it should be.  I do mostly three jaw stuff on this machine.

Thanks for the offer though. If I get stuck I'll get in touch.

Dave.

Fergus OMore:
My understanding is that you should initially 'rough it out' again using a roughing reamer but the downside is that the taper may go in TOO far!
So is it possible to remove the spindle and 'Go up' to MT3 using the non functioning lathe?

Failing this, I'd buy a soft No2 MT blank. I think ArcEuros are left soft. Drive it in. Mig it in place and start again.

Frankly, it is fairly straight forward- or seems so.

Cheers

Norman

DavidA:
This picture gives a better impression of the problem.

Dave.

DavidA:
Anyone else using wooden pulleys ?

Dave

 

vtsteam:
David, if it was mine (and I didn't have a Morse taper reamer) I'd make up a boring bar extension out of a heavier shaft -- maybe 5/8" dia, with a hole in the end, and a setscrew to take a thinner boring bar to cut the actual taper. The extension of the smaller bar should be just over the total depth needing boring. That can be set by the depth of the hole you drill in the larger shaft.

I'd also use the largest diameter "tip" boring bar that would fit the back of the taper to be cut. You'll have to go slowly, and several passes to take up the spring of the bar(s) each turn of the carriage handle,  but you should be able to do it, given time and patience.

EDIT:

Actually if the 5/8" bar fits part way into the bore, you can make the tip extension even shorter -- just long enough to cut that part blocked to the 5/8" (or whatever you chose) bar. You could also bevel the end of the longer bar to fit further in.

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