Feeler Lathe

[Rick O Shea]

Does any one have any experience of a Feeler lathe  which I think is a copy of the Hardinge. I would like a bit of advice as I am thinking of buying one, It  might replace a colchester chipmaster...
best wishes
Mike

[BillTodd]

No direct experience. (we have a couple of bits of feeler tooling that, apart from the colour and label could be hardinge)

I have spoken to owners ,all seem to be very happy. They are well regarded and respected among hardinge fans, so yeah ,they are good.

They are close enough clones for most hardinge parts to fit (i read somewhere that the spindle fitting is slightly different, but that maybe just a rumour) and for the weak spots (carriage gear!) to have been copied.

Different knobs and handles may account for a different 'feel' . Bedf oiler is better imho

Gert the English/metric version if you can (they seem more common than the hlv-em) , I'd probably even swap my hlv-h for one

[Rick O Shea]

Bill thanks for that

What a fantastic series of photographs on your site Bill. I am very envious of your  machine. If you don't mind me asking,  What is the swing and distanse between centres?

As you are from colchester 'where the lathes were made' do you think swapping a chipmaster for the Feeler is a good idea? I think I could get the feeler which is in superb condition  with collets   chucks and a multifx tool holder for around 2K

Mike

[BillTodd]

Hlv-hs are about 11" over the bed, 9-ish over the carriage (about 3" wide)  and 6 & a bit over the cross-slide (if the crossslide nut locking bolt is not in the way).

Officially, they are 18" twixt centres but can be coaxed a little further if not turning full length.

Hmm now would I swap my hardeinge for an ugly clunky. ugly , heavy ugly old design ,did i mention ugly?, just because it was made in my home town.....no!

Every time i use my hardinge i usually end up thinking "what a bloody fantastic lathe this is!" (that is unless I've had to move the tailstock too often, e.g more than  twice! then i'm swearing about my shoulder ache)  Once you've threaded on a hlv there is no going back B-)

Before the headstock belt became contaminated (how?) and it started making a noise like a donkey with its nuts caught in wheel (new belts are winging their way across the Atlantic as we speak) , it was quite as a mouse . (no gears or kopft vaguelyators  to grind)


But in defence of the chippy : it will probably handle heavier cuts ,which won't fall on your hand' cos the carriage wheel on the right side.,......., and some people like ugly ;-)

[Rick O Shea]

OK, just a thought,  plucked out of the air,  but I sense you think the chippy is not very beautiful.

Thanks for your  comments Bill I will have to go and see If I can find my wife's credit card.

best wishes  Mike

[hopefuldave]

Hmm now would I swap my hardeinge for an ugly clunky. ugly , heavy ugly old design ,did i mention ugly?, just because it was made in my home town.....no!

There were far nicer lathes made in Essex, Holbrooks in Stratford...

I just wish my C13 had leadscrew reverse on it like its bigger brothers, be more than a match for a Hardinge then! I do have a Cunning Plan, though 

I'm rather impressed with the long radius attachment, it'd be even more convenient on a Holbrook with the double cross-slide, the crossfeed nut's independent of the taper attachment so you can still use the crossfeed to put a cut on when taper turning or even combine cross and carriage feeds (giving 45 degrees) with the taper setting for "blunt" tapers - very convenient, even civilised

Do you cut the long radii under power or hand feed, ditto the skiving tools?

Dave H. (the other one)

[BillTodd]

Do you cut the long radii under power or hand feed, ditto the skiving tools?

Both done with power feed . You have to be careful with both the LRA and taper attachment to work in one direction , so as not to make an embarrassingly large cut (don't ask how I know this ;-)).

The cross-slide feed in the skiving videos was less than half the speed it could be (too slow in fact), but I didn't want to burn up the tool while experimenting. (I have since replaced my coolant oil !) . The second tool with a greater attack angle, for the tri-ball handle worked much better than the first, but was harder to grind just right .