Author Topic: The Dreaded Window Replacement....  (Read 4823 times)

Offline sparky961

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The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« on: June 07, 2016, 06:00:46 PM »
I've needed to put in new windows in my house since ... well, since I bought it.  I got a bunch of quotes about 4 years ago but never did anything about it because I was a bit overwhelmed by the choices and definitely by the price.

The house is wood frame construction with single layer brick veneer, circa 1990.  If it weren't for the brick I'd probably try to tackle it myself but that part intimidates me a bit.  Maybe it shouldn't.

The sills? (outside bottom window ledge) were done with the same brick the house is covered in, and it's coming apart due to water/frost breaking them up.  It was recommended to me to replace with "Angel Stone", which I think is some sort of concrete product.

Does anyone have any general advice, who/what to watch out for, what to look for, things to do at the same time, ways to save money, that sort of thing?

Going to spend the night on YouTube watching window replacement videos now..... lol

Offline Arbalist

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2016, 04:04:11 AM »
Not sure what systems you have over there but I'm personally not keen on UPVC which we currently have. In the old house I had aluminium double glazing put in which looks much nicer as it had a smaller profile. It's self fix (no wooden frame like the old stuff) and has a thermal barrier to prevent condensation - but it still happens a bit. Top budget stuff I saw some years back was made in Scandinavia which had an alloy outer frame wirh wood inside. Very pricey though. I think in the US they have a combined UPVC /wood system which we don't see over here. Might be worth looking at the specs/price for triple glazing.

Offline RotarySMP

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2016, 02:13:02 PM »
I replaced two windows in my house. The house walls are concrete core between Durisol.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement-bonded_wood_fiber

It is a fair bit of work but nothing terrible difficult. How are your old windows attached? Here, windows are foamed in, with a few screws to lock the position, with plaster closing around the surrounds. The correct system here is call RAL Montage in German.

Here is an example...
http://www.google.si/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjAvoLzg5nNAhXMOBQKHcNcABUQFggoMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.greenteq.info%2Fvb%2Fopencms%2FResource%2Fgalleries%2Fgreenteq%2Fdownload%2FCI_Icons%2FProfessional_window_mounting_with_greenteQ_2011_saved.pdf&usg=AFQjCNF8BzboGr-bOaWkfvijpR989SYBjw&bvm=bv.124088155,d.d24



In a climate with large seasonal temperature swings and cold winter, you do need consider the following:
1/ mechanical mounting. I used two component polyurethane foam, as it is harder once set but doesn't expand as much. Four screws into wall plugs in the concrete ensure that it wont get loose as the foam ages.
2/Protection of the outer seam from wind and driving rain. This is done with an insulating tape, which is transmissive for condensation on the outer wall.
3/ Air tight inner seam. Again an insulating tape between the frame and wall construction. Got glued to the concrete with a snot like material.
4/Insulation to ensure the heat doesn't escape around the frame. This is achieved with foaming in the frame.
5/ control of vapor. You want a vapour tight membrane on the inside, and transmissive on the outside. That is achieved through the selection of the two tapes.

The outer sill is also very important to ensure drainage away from the wall.

The better insulated the house walls, the more critical the window mounting/insulation system becomes, as errors can cause mould build up from the incorrect placement of the dew point.

Mark

Best regards, Meilleures salutations, Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Cu salutari
Mark
https://www.youtube.com/c/RotarySMP

Offline PeterE

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2016, 04:58:32 PM »
    Hi Sparky,

    I live in Sweden so have much the same demands as you in Canada. I tried to find a video that even though being in Swedish, it shows the basic steps on how to do a change. On a wood-framed building it is easier than a concrete-framed one.

    The below video (a commercial from a Swedish company) we see a wood-framed house with brick cladding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eayUPOuGOF8

The windows used are three-pane high-isolation ones possible to swing round so that cleaning can be done from inside on both faces. No cleaning necessary between the panes, only the two outsides. The panes are glued toghether and a vaccum increases the isolation for both temp and sound. Such windows will significantly lower the energy required to heat the house.

The steps are basically the following:

  • Remove the covering from the window frame to the brick wall.
  • Remove the glazed part of the window to work easier on the frame.
  • Cut the nails or remove the screws/bolts holding the old window frame and remove it.
  • Inspect and clean up the opening.
  • Fit the new window with frame into the opening. Secure with a couple of wedges that also make the window fit square and vertical.
  • Secure the window by fitting window screws two on each side. We use the following type in Sweden (again forgive the Swedish):
    http://essve.se/webcatalogue/karminfastning/396146-programa-karmskruv-ohardad/
    This type of fastener works as follows. The screw part in the center actually goes through the window frame and into the frame in the opening. At the same time the shell is screwed into the window frame. This is done using a special tool with both inside and outside hex. When the inner screw is fitted deep enough the tool is turned so that only the outer shell can be twisted and that makes it possible to adjust the window vertical and square in the opening.
  • Check that the window opens easily or re-adjust.
  • Push in isolating glass or stone wool between the window frame and the wall all around the window.
  • cover the inside window frame-to-wall opening with a nice piece of wood.
  • On the outside add proper window caulk from the outside against the isolating wool.v
  • Make a new window sill from a plate. Use small nails to secure the sill to the window frame.
  • Cover the outside window frame-to-wall opening with another nice piece of wood. Paint the wood for protection.

Done!

Hope this gave some ideas.

BR

/Peter[/list]
Always at the edge of my abilities, too often beyond ;-)

Offline nrml

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2016, 05:37:23 PM »
Tropical hardwood windows look very nice and are very durable, but they need regular maintenance every if they are to last. Ours are made of Sapele and are probably between 10 to 15 years old but they are still in excellent condition. The joinery firm that made them said that there is no reason they shouldn't last a lifetime with proper maintenance. I believe they cost about the same as the top of the range faux wood UPVC  or metal framed windows here in the UK. They are however a PITA to sand down and treat with Sikkens every 2-3 years.

Offline sparky961

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2016, 09:36:05 PM »
Thanks for all the excellent suggestions, tips, and links. It's looking like I really should give it a go myself. Far too often I'm intimidated by a project only to find it wasn't near as difficult as imagined.

Vinyl and/or PVC seems to be what pretty much every company is pushing in this area. The existing ones are wood, and while I'm sure there are very durable and rot resistant woods out there, my Windows were definitely not made of that. I did replace a small bathroom window about the time I was getting the quotes. It went ok but I'd do a few things different trimming it out next time.

Offline charadam

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Re: The Dreaded Window Replacement....
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2016, 01:40:04 PM »
I have never forgotten what I was told by a double-glazing manufacturer when I was working as a lifting equipment inspector for Factories Act compliance.

He told me I could buy units (the double glazed panes) for 52 pence per square foot and completely framed windows, ready to install, for £1.75 per square foot.

At the time, 25 years ago, the  big companies were charging around £30 per square foot for the same (installed) windows.

Since that time I have have purchased about 40 windows and installed them in my own place and family dwellings.

My message is - take all advice into account, especially regarding your local climatic conditions, and then go for DIY procurement and installation.
« Last Edit: June 09, 2016, 05:41:08 PM by charadam »