Sieg X2 and Sealey Sm2502

[websterz]

SM25 -    http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=8044

I have been trying to identify this machine:



I first thought it was a sieg X2 but now believe it to be the SM2502? It is currently at £200 and I was considering it should it go to below £250 but I`m now confused - if it is the sm2502 is it really worth £300 (+£40 petrol to pick it up) when I can get an X2 for £375 new?


Cheers
Chris

Hey Chris, that pic is identical, down to all visible nuts and bolts, to my Seig x2 purchased last year through Harbor Freight. No doubt in my mind, it's an x2!! It even has the same mint green colored plastic stop on the top of the column. 

[CrewCab]

Besides, you haven`t seen the condition of my freelander

Blimey ........... your Freelander's that badly banged up it looks just like a Disco 

CC 

[CrewCab]

that pic is identical, down to all visible nuts and bolts, to my Seig x2 purchased last year through Harbor Freight.

Deffo an X", just has a Sealey Badge on it and painted their choice of colour

My X2  supplied by spg (and in spg blue) from Harrogate last year ......



....... and after I fitted the air spring .......... but in standard form ...........  bar the colour methinks you'd be hard pressed to spot the difference 

CC

[raynerd]

CrewCab - who supplies the spring mod in the UK and is it worth it?

Chris

[CrewCab]

Chris

imho the mod is well worth it, a new Z Axis rack is included in the kit which is about 5" (125mm) longer than the original, the head now travels up to the top of the column .... about 2" more (52mm), and obviously moves down about 3" more (76mm).

The travel is smoother and the head stays in position.  It's a very easy modification to do, just requiring drilling 4 holes and tapping 3 of them plus removing, drilling and sticking the plastic column cap back on ............ about an hour or so overall for an amateur like me, probably about 10 minutes for you guys

unfortunately ................. I don't know anyone in the UK who supplies it, I got mine from Little Machine Shop in the States at the same time as a few other bits ...... >> Click Here <<........ delivery was superb, 4 days .............. it was on offer, so fairly inexpensive, but at that time the £ was worth a lot more against the $

Different story at the moment ................ though .................. Ralph and I clubbed together for some 9x20 lathe belts, we had them shipped to Eric and he posted them over here and that saved a lot, could be a few folks might want bits and bobs from LMS so you could try that ............. I'm sure I could be persuaded to buy a couple of odds and sods.

Just for your info, I've also fitted a belt drive and that is also a good mod, much quieter and smoother, I don't know anyone who regrets fitting one, I've also come across a few folk who have made their own.

Last thought ( me ....... thinking ............. that's dangerous  ) the air spring (and fittings) is just a strut off a hatchback car, the only bit you need to source is the rack ............. if you want me to measure the length of the air spring just shout up.

CC .............. aka .................... Dave

[raynerd]

Hi guys - talking about the air spring conversion -the Chester Conquest branded X2 already has this installed as standard - further clarifying what bogs was saying earlier in the thread regarding badge branding but at different specs and quality.

Has anyone done the belt drive conversion?

http://www.stirlingsteele.com/beltdrive.html

I hear the drive gears break very easily, I understand they can be replaced even with metal ones but apparently the belt drive conversion reduces the running noise as well.

Chris

[spuddevans]

Has anyone done the belt drive conversion?

http://www.stirlingsteele.com/beltdrive.html

I hear the drive gears break very easily, I understand they can be replaced even with metal ones but apparently the belt drive conversion reduces the running noise as well.

I haven't done it yet, but I'm about to start on one. I'm not using a kit conversion, I'm going to try to make my own bits. (this may change after a few attempts though  )

I plan on doing a project log post on it so that you all can mock my poor efforts 


Tim

[Bernd]

Tim,

I started on my Grizzly mini mill (X2). I got as far as making a couple of pulleys. They're not even parted off of the stock material yet.

The change over to the pulleys I don't think eliminates all of the gearing. I may be wrong. Reason being you have the high and low range gear set. That's the one I took out (broke) last time.

Just went and checked the link Chris gave. Same as the LittleMachineShop conversion. I've noticed that the RPM range will be increased. Makes me wonder if the bearings will hold up or wear out sooner at those higher speeds. Anybody seen or heard any complaints about that?

Bernd

[Brass_Machine]

Tim,

There are plans out the for a belt conversion. I will look and see if I have them... they used to be on the yahoo group. It does eliminate all the gearing. You either have to take the hi/lo gears out or leave the leaver in the middle position. I took my gears out.

As far as holding up, I have had my belt conversion in for over 3 years of heavy use and it is still going strong.

Eric

[Brass_Machine]

Tim,

This group has a lot of info/plans including a belt drive...  Yahoo Grizzly minimill. Membership is activated instantly.

Eric

[Brass_Machine]

Tim,

I sent you an email.

Eric

[spuddevans]

Tim,

I sent you an email.

Eric

Got it thanks  Looks good.


Tim

[CrewCab]

I fitted a belt drive conversion on my X2 (The Stirling Steele one from LMS).  It made the machine quieter and smoother plus you get a wider range of RPM's, useful for drilling tiny holes.  I tend not to have the belt too tight, that way it lets me know if I'm asking a bit much of the machine.   

hth

CC

[raynerd]

Don`t know if this is the same belt conversion as the one you have seen or the one Eric posted in the yahoo group but take a look:

http://www.raynerd.co.uk/wp-content/upLoads/beltdrive11.pdf

The design looks ok but I don`t like how the suggestions on the first page are not integrated into a modified design - with little workshop experience I would find it hard to change the plans. If anyone has better plans or alternatives, please do link me to them.

I think the next thing I am doing is this great little spindle lock, so simple yet looks really effective: http://bedair.org/spindlelock.html

SpudEvans - I look forward to your project log - I may join you, sneakly one step behind so I can see what is coming. As soon as you choose your plans and know what materials you will need please do post if you are willing.

Chris

[spuddevans]

Yea, those are the same plans I have, I'll be basing my conversion on them.

I will post up in a new thread about the materials and work progress in a few days, gotta clean up in the workshop 1st


Tim

[raynerd]

You have probably seen it but well worth a watch - it is the conversion kit but it gave me in idea of what was involved minus machining the parts! Anyone any vids or info about machining the pullys - are they just turned on the lathe from a large diameter stock?

[raynerd]

Also, nice link here: http://www.hossmachine.info/projects_6.html#belt%20conversion

[websterz]

Also, nice link here: http://www.hossmachine.info/projects_6.html#belt%20conversion

Those are the plans I used. Made a world of difference in my mill. I did the conversion before I stripped out a gear, didn't want that headache to worry about. If I push too hard the belt just slips. I also found a cheaper source of belts than Little Machine Shop. I got them for under $4 a piece so I bought 5. If they don't dry rot they ought to last me at least 10 years.