Author Topic: It pays to talk - proud owner of a Box-ford Model "A" Lathe (Read 73746 times)

kvom · « **Reply #50 on:** September 01, 2009, 10:02:12 AM »

I have an AXA size holder on my lathe, which has a 12" swing. AXA seems to be equivalent to the model 100, whereas the model 200 seems to be equivalent to the BXA size. BXA might be overkill for a 9" swing lathe.

raynerd · « **Reply #51 on:** September 01, 2009, 03:26:27 PM »

I don`t know what it is but the USA QCTP seem much better quality and cheaper! I even ordered my little mini lathe QCTP from the USA but got stung with import tax and it also took a while to arrive. I`m a bit reluctant to do it again but why do no UK suppliers sell them for ~£55 equivelent to $78!!!

Darren · « **Reply #52 on:** September 02, 2009, 04:36:57 AM »

Because they can't......lots of reasons...mostly pointing towards our capitol...

raynerd · « **Reply #53 on:** September 02, 2009, 08:59:39 AM »

Really frustrating - seeing good quality tooling at $80 over there and inferior products here at £100 !! Doesn`t make sense

Ahh well, guess I`ll have to live with it.

Emailed cdc in the states and postage is $41 - so total would be $119 = £73 and then there is the likely posibility of import tax (£15?)

maybe it is still worth it. Perhaps I need to look into this in more detail but would I need to purchase additional tool holders from the US as well or would other "UK available" holders fit?

Anyone got any other suggestions available from this side of the pond?

Darren · « **Reply #54 on:** September 02, 2009, 09:27:17 AM »

Make your own tool holders from scrap......you could make a whole bunch of them in one go....

raynerd · « **Reply #55 on:** September 02, 2009, 05:31:32 PM »

Yes, now that is a good suggestion! Hummm....may plunge for this imported one.

raynerd · « **Reply #56 on:** September 29, 2009, 03:35:21 PM »

3 months after recieving this lathe I have just discovered the saddle lock nut!!!! hurray

Why didn`t I see this earlier

I have been locking the saddle on the half nuts but there is still play, with the locking nut it totally kills it dead - excellent.

I think I need a manual, what else is on here that I don`t know about??

Chris

Darren · « **Reply #57 on:** September 29, 2009, 03:37:26 PM »

Wanna list.......

..............sorry couldn't resist......

I found something similar on my shaper tonight as well......still learning....of course....

NickG · « **Reply #58 on:** September 29, 2009, 06:16:16 PM »

I found my lock nut on the harrison the other day too .. right on the top staring at me

It was after the post on parting that I looked for that.

Nick

andyf · « **Reply #59 on:** September 29, 2009, 07:12:47 PM »

Me too. After owning my Chinese lathe for 2 years, I tried tightening up an oddly placed bolt on the saddle, which seemed to be loose, then found the saddle was immoveable

an "undocumented feature", as the software people say when someone points out a bug in one of their programs.

I've made a new bolt with a more obvious lever handle, to remind me that it's there when needed.

Andy

raynerd · « **Reply #60 on:** September 30, 2009, 02:11:45 AM »

I`m glad it isn`t just me

raynerd · « **Reply #61 on:** October 17, 2009, 01:48:15 PM »

Hello, I`ve not spent much time tread cutting on this lathe as I tend to use my mini-lathe to do most of it. I did give it a go, I think 28TPI or something like, right when I got the lathe. Not much of a problem once I had figured it all out, worked very well.

Anyway, I tried to cut 8TPI for my current project and since the mini lathe only goes down to 12TPI I needed to use the Boxford. the project is for a Rotary table adapter to fit my boxford chuck - I needed 8TPI 1 1/2" whitworth.

I set it all up and as the stub is only a short distance I made a massive mistake, I took it too quickly and hit the end. It didn`t sound like a massive calamity, I managed to stop it almost immediately but when I took it back to take my next cut found that the gearing for the lead screw were not meshing. No, problem, I`ve obviously strained them with colliding and also on such a low thread. I unbolted the adjustable gear which can move up and down on the slot to allow correct alignment but I just can not get into a position where both mesh! I can have it meshing with the top and bottom but not together!!!

I`ve been looking at it for the last hour or so and really can`t see what else I can do. The top gear seems to be locked in position on the gear engage and forward/reverse select lever and the bottom gear is fixed in alignment with the lead screw so neither of these can be adjusted.

Any ideas or advice. I guess I must have done something else than force this gear out of position but I can`t work out what!

Any advice appreciated.

raynerd · « **Reply #62 on:** October 18, 2009, 10:56:36 AM »

Just to answer my own question for completion on the forum - there is also an allan nut, mine was hidden with grub, I had seen it earlier but presumed it to be holding the brack in place, it actualy allows you to swing the bracket around meshing the teeth together!

Solved....now on to cutting this thread!!

Darren · « **Reply #63 on:** October 18, 2009, 01:54:58 PM »

Sorry Chris I did think of something like that but thought it was too obvious. You'll need to move this most times you change the gearing.

Pic of the thread please....

BTW, 12tpi is on the max limit for the 7x12, it wouldn't cope with an 8tpi or less as I discovered.

raynerd · « **Reply #64 on:** October 18, 2009, 02:24:11 PM »

Hi Darren - nothing is ever too obvious for me

Well I`ve had a go at cutting the thread and then my little one hurt herself so I had to come back indoors. It was looking OK as a thread but didn`t seem to want to engage with the chuck so overall, so far, useless!! I only have 60deg thread guages so can`t really check it, will have to work on it some more either tonight or tomorrow. I think maybe I`ve not got a big enough depth of cut but like I said, not finished yet! Certainly got a nice even thread pattern and the OD is 1.5" so can`t be too far off!! I will check the thread on my head stock spindle with the thread I`ve just cut and see if I can eyeball any differences.... anyway, will keep you posted!

Chris

NickG · « **Reply #65 on:** October 20, 2009, 10:39:51 AM »

raynerd · « **Reply #66 on:** October 20, 2009, 04:51:12 PM »

Hi Nick, thanks for your interest, the thread was cut for the boxford adaptor found here:
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2003.0

The bolt that I was looking for that allowed me to mesh my gears was this one here circled in red. It looks obvious in the photo but when I was looking at it, to me it looked as though it was holding the bracket together not allowing it to rotate

:

NickG · « **Reply #67 on:** October 21, 2009, 05:15:31 AM »

Chris,

Obvious to people that have seen it before!

raynerd · « **Reply #68 on:** October 25, 2009, 07:49:30 PM »

Another one...

My drive belt has starting screaming at me - I`m not 100% sure whether it is actually slipping just a fraction or not but it certainly is making a noise at times. It doesn`t do it with the motor just ticking over but when I put some pressure onto the tool and consquently onto the belts they really make a screetch!

Any useful tips to stop this? There is a leaver on the front of the lathe that tightens and slackens the belt for changing speeds and this is fully tight and it has only just started doing it. Could possibly be getting worse but again not had it long enough to tell properly. There is a lot of black sticky goo on the pully under the belt, should this be wiped away?

As usual, help greatly appreciated!

Chris

Bluechip · « **Reply #69 on:** October 26, 2009, 04:12:50 AM »

Chris

Fullers Earth.

Whip the belt off, clean it with the stuff. At one time you could get it at chemists. Not any more. You could try tho. This is the first hit I got from Google.

Was universally used on leather belts on textile machines I think.

Gets all the black snot off oily belts.

http://www.fishingwithstyle.co.uk/fullersearth.htm#Buy

This is what it is ..

http://www.answers.com/topic/fuller-s-earth

Dave BC

raynerd · « **Reply #70 on:** October 26, 2009, 04:27:53 AM »

Bluechip - thanks for the info! I`ve also found it on fleabay so if I can`t get any from town centre today I`ll buy some online tonight. Thanks for the info and I`ll let you know how it goes!

Chris

Bluechip · « **Reply #71 on:** October 26, 2009, 05:43:40 AM »

Chris

As far as I remember, they used to sprinkle the stuff on the belts, then leave 'em overnight.
Then just pull the belt thro' a bit of towelling or summat to get the crap off, and off you go.
You may have to do it again I suppose, if the belt is really infested.

Dave BC

raynerd · « **Reply #72 on:** October 26, 2009, 03:57:53 PM »

Dave, I couldn`t buy it at two local chemists so will order some online. I`ll let you know when it arrives!

andyf · « **Reply #73 on:** October 26, 2009, 05:40:19 PM »

Try cat litter - you might have to pound it into a fine powder first, but it is good at absorbing oil. If begging some from a neighbour, be sure to specify "unused".

Andy

Bluechip · « **Reply #74 on:** October 26, 2009, 05:57:21 PM »

Quote from: craynerd on October 26, 2009, 03:57:53 PM

Dave, I couldn`t buy it at two local chemists so will order some online. I`ll let you know when it arrives!

That doesn't surprise me. At one time it was used for 'nappy rash' or the likes. Probably now replaced by some wildly expensive preparation, clinically proven of course, which is bugger all else but Fullers Earth in a posh container ...

Try Andy's idea. All you want is something ad(ab?) sorbent, which will clean off. Might be an idea to ensure the litter is 'cat free' before you wallop it tho.

Dave BC

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Author Topic: It pays to talk - proud owner of a Box-ford Model "A" Lathe (Read 73746 times)