Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??

Anyone Ever Shortened a Shahe DRO Scale?

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awemawson:
Encouraged by the above I decided to draw up an adaptor in Fusion 360 and 3D print it. I decided to have it entirely behind the sensor head and space the scale off on pillars to make room.

Worked out remarkably well - made up some 20 mm high spacers out of hex brass, tapped M3 one end and M4 the other, only because I didn't have M3 countersunk any longer than 20 mm and the magnets have a 3 mm hole.

As the magnet goes on to a 45 degree slope the exact pillar spacing is less critical - the magnet sticks on where it needs to 'up the slope' but in practise is pretty near the middle  :thumbup:

Next job - shorten that scale  :bugeye:

awemawson:
So no more procrastinating - get on with it !

I carefully measured up, and came to the conclusion that if I shortened the scale by 60 mm it would give me sufficient wiggle room to pre-set the DRO but still allow the full 9" of Thicknesser travel unimpeded.

So a simple job of unbolting the end mount, clamp it in the vice, attack it with a hack saw, make it pretty with a file, and re-fit the end mount. All unexciting and nothing to be concerned about. As others have said, the scale comprises a PCB supported by an aluminium beam to which it is bonded.

I tried to get a picture of the cross section, but it isn't the best quality photo.


So the procedure is:

a/ Fix the scale to the cast iron body of the machine with super magnets

b/ Slide the sensor head down until it's  attached magnet contacts the original machine pointer and firmly fixes both together

c/ Adjust the thickness wheel to give as near to zero thickness as possible

d/ Zero the DRO

e/ Adjust the thickness wheel to approximately the desired thickness

f/ Plane a bit of timber at this setting and measure it

g/ Slide the fixing magnets and hence the scale to give the same reading

h/ Do a trial planing to check the results.

Now with this particular DRO the setting will be retained even when powered off, so as long as you remember NOT to press the zero button and nothing else is disturbed there is no need to go through the above procedure - the machine is ready to use  :thumbup:

WeldingRod:
I've cut those down too, even going so far as to peel off the working bit and graft it into a lathe cross slide!
I have also cut down a GLASS scale, but that's a lot more fiddly!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

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