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Mill/drill stand for Warco Major mill

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PekkaNF:
Bought the mill and thinkking appropriate stand/table/toolchest for it.

There are some sheet metals stands, but they have limited storage quality.

Toolchest would have excelent storage quality, but needs external support for the mill (dry weight around 300 kg). Wondering if the swarf and such would find easily it's way into drawers. My first instinct is to make separate skeleton stand that supports the machine and toolchest can be rolled uder it it or out. But 70 kg tool chest would add pretty nice torsional stiffness to simple table structure.

Any good ideas or pointers?

vtsteam:
Pekka is it the round column kind?  I have that type (Enco brand).

It has a sheet metal cabinet under, with a door. Not very useful.

It seems to me that swarf wouldn't get into drawers unless you leave them open while milling.

Same as for a benchtop lathe. I have forgotten with my lathe on occasion, so yes it does happen. But my shop is so tiny that there is no other storage solution. And I haven't made that mistake often. It just forces you to clean out your drawer more often -- which isn't a bad thing.

PekkaNF:
Thank you

Yes, it is round column type, figured I need more drilling than milling machine on that size (300 kg, pretty light weight)
https://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/36-major-milling-drilling-machine.html



I'll plan tool chest underneath it. I need to get, then I have exact dimenssions: size of tray and mounting holes.

Pekka

vtsteam:
Pekka, I like mine. Especially since I made 3 single tooth carbide insert mills for it. Particularly often used is my big diameter fly cutter with an R8 spindle. It's in very frequent use for surfacing castings. The other two are 7/8"mills - one with a square insert as an end mill, and one with a big radius insert for surfacing smaller pieces and edges.

While I've seen many add-on devices and tricks for returning the round column type mills to a previous position after raising it by the crank, I think the best method was in a youtube video where the user just positioned a magnetic indicator to the  table and against the quill, set it to zero, and after raising, returned it to zero again. Simple, sure and effective. Every other device or method I've seen has a greater error.
.
To make raising less of a chore also, buy yourself a breaker bar, and a socket to fit the column clamp nuts, and just keep that dedicated for that purpose only at the back of the mill within easy reach.

Another crescent wrench to fit the collet tightening nut is also handy to keep near. Finally, a skate ball bearing on the end of some drill rod to fit is a handy center finder, and useful in squaring up the mill vise, too. I also stuck a cheap calculator onto the front of the belt guard. It comes in very handy when figuring hole spacing, center deductions, etc.

PK:
Best trick for a round column mill I ever saw was a laser pointer on the head pointing at the far wall.
Column was vertical and there was a vertical line on the wall...
Neat and well and truly accurate enough...

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