Experimentation.....

[cedge]

Being sort of between projects means I have time to try some of the strange ideas that come to me when I'm too busy with a build to stop. This little experiment was one such idea that kept bobbing to the top of the heap, so last evening I decided to give it free reign.

I'm about to begin Jerry Howells, "Miser" but want to change the look so that it's not like every other Miser one sees. Since the changes one can make are basically cosmetic and limited to areas like the column, the connecting rod and the smaller cylinders associated with the pistons.... Those are the places I'm looking to alter a bit.

Here is the result of my first attempt at a spiral fluted section which will likely become part of the main column. It consists of 10 pieces of .091 brass rod I had laying about. once twisted they were then soldered to make it all nice and rigid. The ends are simply something whipped out to give the column appearance.

Steve

[bogstandard]

A very nice effect Steve, and if there is just one column then I would think it would look great.

I tried all sorts when I was attempting to make the twisted columns for my mine engine. The fabricated ones like yours looked great, but it was very difficult to replicate them exactly the same when I needed four. I ended up turning them out of the solid.

When I go down the scrapyard, you can get as much of that effect by looking at the heavy duty cabling, which is of course machine twisted and perfectly uniform. Unfortunately it is in the wrong material, copper instead of brass or ali.

But I am sure you could come up with something.

John

[tinkerer]

Nice twist on an Ionic greek column. 

[spuddevans]

The fabricated ones like yours looked great, but it was very difficult to replicate them exactly the same when I needed four.

As this one is soldered down it's length, would it be possible to make a much longer length of it and then after soldering it you could cut it into 4 to make 4 that are almost exactly the same? I guess it would depend on whether you can make a consistant length that is long enough.

When I go down the scrapyard, you can get as much of that effect by looking at the heavy duty cabling, which is of course machine twisted and perfectly uniform. Unfortunately it is in the wrong material, copper instead of brass or ali.

I suppose you could plate it, copper is a good base for plating onto, caswell do plenty of plating kits that look interesting, might be worth a thought.


Tim

[bogstandard]

Tim,

I tried twisting some square bar to get a barley twist effect, as seen on Victorian machines and engines (I have since found out that you can buy it ready made), but the problem was getting it to form a uniform spiral over the 12" I required because it had to be done while heat was applied, and it is very difficult to achieve that state with just one and a half hands.

The pic below was my effort, done by screwcutting, it looked OK, but not really what I had in mind.

I am sure Steve will come up with some novel little regime that can turn out yards of the stuff.

John

[spuddevans]

That looks very nice John, I wonder if doing a longer length would be easier for Steve as he's working with what looks like several fairly thin pieces to twist around a hollow core, it should be easier than doing the same with solid material and the core should help to keep the twist uniform.

I think I will be filing this away for future reference 


Tim

[cedge]

John
The uniformity problem hasn't reared its ugly head as of yet. The wire is wrapped around a core that physically defines the maximum twist. The core can then either be removed or retained according to the need. The short piece was actually a much longer piece that I trimmed to show the concept. I've already got a small clamping device in mind that will allow me to maintain the twist while handing things like soldering, transferring the work piece etc. Heat wasn't needed since the rods are brazing rod and quite happy to bend when tortured. This might have contributed to the even twist since the rods did not vary in rigidity due to any annealing effects.

Where I ran into a stone wall was trying to twist a tapered version. Everything worked until the last little smidgen of twist cause the small end to expel one of the strands due to the squeezing effect the smaller radius caused. A solution is in the fuzzy mental state of cogitation but it would require a bit of tedious prep of the wire. I'm also wondering if spot annealing the small end might help.

I'm pleased with the results so far. My shot in the dark calculations for radii and wire count were really pretty close to the mark. The final tool should be quite simple to make and use. Thank the gods for that blessed DRO.

Steve

[bogstandard]

I knew you would have some sort of secret weapon Steve. Ignore all I have said about replication.

I am a little worried over the taper thing though. Shouldn't the rods taper in diameter as it gets smaller, or is that asking a little too much at this time?


John

[cedge]

John
That, my almost overly astute friend, is exactly the stone wall I mentioned. What I'm wondering is if the annealing idea will allow them to "stretch" a bit letting me cheat my way across the finish line. The taper thing would be a bonus, but a nice one to have on tap if and when the proper time comes. The straight spiral will let me get the look I want, so my basic goal has already been conquered. The rest is fine tuning the tooling end of things.

Steve

[Tinker]

Just a random odd little thought...

Probably wrong, but maybe not.

If you were to start from the small end and increase the twist as the core gets bigger, would you end up with something in the right neighborhood?

[John Hill]

John Bogs, of course I have never been to your scrappy but in general high tension transmission lines are a few steel strands for tensile strength with aluminium strands around the outside for the current carrying.  Aluminium has less resistance than copper for the same weight.

[chuck foster]

steve............do you ever follow the plans exactly ?????
you do fantastic work and you think outside the box on most of your projects 

oh by the way very neat idea for the column 

chuck 

[cedge]

Chuck....
My box was broken a long time ago.... . I certainly try not to wind up with a result that is not exactly like every other engine one sees. The idea of having something unique and of my own design has always intrigued me. The short answer to your question..... not often.... 

Here is a concept rendering of the basic tool idea. I've already proven the concept works and all that remains is the refining of the tool.




The "far" hex piece is free to turn while the forward hex is anchored. By turning the far hex, the wires collapse onto the center mandrel. This is free floating and removable allowing for different diameters to be used. It can also be chucked on both ends to assure alignment. The design of the tool allows use on the lathe, mill or even a vice and serves double duty as a soldering jig. The bolt located on the far end is used to secure the twist once it is made.

Small items of note are the bushings used with the center mandrel. These allow for changing sizes while still retaining the centerline placement. The Hex pieces are also removable so that additional blanks with higher or lesser wire counts with different radii can be easily inserted should the need arise. Dimensions are pretty much non-critical and the tool can be made to any length, as required for the end result you need.

The 3d rendering will have to do for the time being, as I'm having a bit of a problem with my back and am not much enjoying standing in front of the machines right now.

Steve

[Bernd]

Steve,

That is one neat tool. The question is is this an original thought or an improvement over something you saw? It looks like it could be patentable, but since you placed it in public domain I guess that should make it un-patentable.

Still I think it's a very neat idea. Wonder if that's how the twisted the cables on the Bay Bridge.  NOT.

Bernd

[kellswaterri]

Hi Steve, a very interesting concept...but am I correct in saying that the finished product will be considerably shorter...but I guess you may well have taken that aspect into account,
Good luck,
              John.

[cedge]

Bernd
This one came from within my own devious mind.... a dark damp and sticky place if ever there was one....(grin). It began with wanting the spiral column and then cogitating my way through half a dozen ways to get there.

Kellsw......
You are indeed correct. The wires will need to be somewhat longer than the needed spiral due to the drawing effect the spiraling will cause. You also need enough extra for the wire to pass through the Hexs so they stay put. You'll have plenty of room left to trim the wires after soldering.

Steve