Author Topic: reverse running motor part 2  (Read 7849 times)

Offline jim

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reverse running motor part 2
« on: September 20, 2009, 12:40:53 PM »
heres why i wanted to run the motor backwards :D

no more catching my hand when doing my polishing :clap:



i know its rough and ready, but it'll do the job perfectly, i've even reused the drill base as the base for the polisher, all the other bits have gone in the drawer for future projects.

i'm even saving the spindle mounting as a possible sub spindle housing (its all ready bored for bearings and i've got the shaft!)
if i'd thought it through, i'd have never tried it

bogstandard

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2009, 01:05:28 PM »
Very nice indeed.

I would just like to point out a little bit about making buffing units out of normal sized motors. This is based on my recent experience, and no way detracts from Jimmyo'C's post, which is a very good one.

Motor size is critical.

I purchased an 8" double ended grinder for converting into a buffing station, thinking it would easily handle an 8" buffing wheel, and the same would be true of a standard 6" grinder.

Nothing could be further from the truth.

When used as a grinder, only a very small area of the wheel is in contact with the job, so no problems arise, but with a buffing wheel, much larger areas are in contact and so a lot more friction. With an 8" mop fitted to mine, if I put just a little too much pressure on it, the motor will stall, and that does the motor no good at all.

With a 6" mop, I get no problems, and I would suspect that a 4" mop on a 6" grinder would be the same.

A little later I will get a 12" grinder to modify, or a proper buffing station. I just can't live without my bling machine.

If you need to polish things, you just gotta have the grunt in the motor in the first place.


Bogs


Offline jim

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2009, 01:53:35 PM »
thats why i wanted to use the drill motor.

my big old bench grinder used to stuggle with scotch brite wheels, i think its about 400W. the last bench grinder was only 150 watt, thats enough for "green" grinding wheel and a diamond wheel.

i think its due to the pressure you apply whilst polishing :scratch:

out of interest, does anyone else use solid scotch brite wheels?, theres nowt better for deburring and getting rust off :dremel:
if i'd thought it through, i'd have never tried it

Offline Darren

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2009, 02:50:01 PM »
Scotchbrite wheels are great for SS when all else fails and can give quite an attractive finish. Other metal and I have found them to be a little harsh. I suppose it depends on what you want/need.

This is my polisher. If it looks very neglected that's because it is. I've left it outside for the last two years in the elements. Plugged it in today and off it went, good as the day I made it about 15yrs ago......don't time fly.... :(

I knocked it up as a quick job to polish bike parts, but over the years it just remained as you see it now. It's done an awful lot of work over the years...

The belt is tensioned by the weight of the motor which swivels on a pin. This pin slides from side to side to align the belt when you change speeds. Two speeds, 3,000 and 3,400 rpm. 3,400 is fine for 6" wheels and 3,000 for 8".

The power of the motor is unknown cos it don't say. I guess 1/2 Hp. It's 4.4A if anyone knows how that relates or has an idea.

I was always told you needed a big motor for polishing, at least 1Hp, but my experience is you don't need this much up to 8". If you are finding the motor is slowing down then you are applying too much pressure which can lead to streaking which is a real pain to get rid of once you have done it.

Far more important is high speed and a light pressure with rapid movements. ie don't stay in one spot.....ever..!!

There are tables for mop diameters and speed requirements. I find 3,500 is fine for 6" 4,000 would be better , but 8" really needs a bit less 2,500 - 3,000.

Then we come into mop types and polishes......





You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline kvom

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #4 on: September 20, 2009, 03:00:31 PM »
I may be a bit slow, but why can't you turn the motor around backwards? :scratch:

Offline Darren

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #5 on: September 20, 2009, 03:02:16 PM »
Cos he'd be working left handed....
You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline dsquire

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #6 on: September 20, 2009, 03:06:38 PM »
Darren

This polisher frame would be a good candidate for your green bucket. I see the potential there for lots of tomato soup!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Cheers  :beer:

Don

Good, better, best.
Never let it rest,
'til your good is better,
and your better best

Offline Darren

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2009, 03:12:32 PM »
Yes it's not the only tool around here that's been subjected to such abuse....!!

You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline Bluechip

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2009, 03:39:45 PM »
Darren

746 Watts = 1 HP

Yours is probably 3/4 HP, 'cos they ain't 100% efficient.

BTW, in Derbyshire, it's not ' Half Horsepower'  the correct term is 'Afe 'Oss'

Ask Dave Stilldrillin

Kvom

A few motors can be reversed by 'end to ending' the rotor.
Some cap. run & split phase. I think all 3ph can, but not sure.
(Many 1 ph. cannot because the start switch centrifugal whatnot will be at the wrong end).
The accepted way is to change wiring.

50 yrs since I did Rotating Machine Theory at Tech. Was 16/17 and spent too much time studying 'Tit 'n ass'. etc
This being a rather more enticing occupation than listening to the Instructor droning on about 'tan theta' etc. etc.



Dave BC

« Last Edit: September 20, 2009, 03:54:23 PM by Bluechip »
I have a few modest talents. Knowing what I'm doing isn't one of them.

Offline dsquire

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2009, 03:46:02 PM »
Darren


50 yrs since I did Rotating Machine Theory at Tech. Was 16/17 and spent too much time studying 'Tit 'n ass'. etc




Dave BC



:offtopic: At the time you thought you had your priorities in the right order. Isn't hind sight a great thing. :lol:

Cheers  :beer:

Don

Good, better, best.
Never let it rest,
'til your good is better,
and your better best

Offline Bluechip

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2009, 03:55:35 PM »
Just edited it Don, see last line now  :lol:  :lol:

Dave BC
I have a few modest talents. Knowing what I'm doing isn't one of them.

Offline dsquire

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #11 on: September 20, 2009, 04:28:15 PM »
Just edited it Don, see last line now  :lol:  :lol:

Dave BC

Thats OK Dave. When I was in high school I thought I was there for a good time. :ddb: :ddb:
It wasn't till I got out that I realized I could have had the good time and learned some of the right stuff too. :smart: Like I said, Ain't hind sight grand.  :doh:

Cheers  :beer:

Don

Good, better, best.
Never let it rest,
'til your good is better,
and your better best

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: reverse running motor part 2
« Reply #12 on: September 21, 2009, 04:05:23 AM »
Darren

746 Watts = 1 HP

Yours is probably 3/4 HP, 'cos they ain't 100% efficient.

BTW, in Derbyshire, it's not ' Half Horsepower'  the correct term is 'Afe 'Oss'

Ask Dave Stilldrillin

Dave BC

Afe oss?  :scratch:

Ay foss!  :D

Well, ar...... Is reight tha nose......  :thumbup:

David D.
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 05:41:34 AM by Stilldrillin »
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!