Author Topic: New Old Lathe (Read 41388 times)

Gerhard Olivier · « **on:** October 02, 2009, 01:51:51 PM »

Just got this off Fleabay

Not collected yet

but could anybody help with ID of this old lathe??????

Hope I didnt buy a lot of Sh**???
Gerhard

sbwhart · « **Reply #1 on:** October 02, 2009, 02:08:44 PM »

Thats an interesting bit of kit, with that tower of gears and what looks like a quick retracting top slide its obviously a screw cutting lathe and it looks like its got a taper turning attachment as well, and the plastic bag on the ground looks like it could have more bits in it as well.

Its a very old lathe you'll have to see if there's any marking on it to help identification do a google on lathes and you'll find a very good site on old lathes.

Cheers

Stew

HENNEGANOL · « **Reply #2 on:** October 02, 2009, 02:29:41 PM »

Tony at the following address may be able to help you identify your lathe:-

tony@lathes.co.uk

Gerald

Darren · « **Reply #3 on:** October 02, 2009, 04:27:50 PM »

That's a very interesting looking lathe....

All those gears......

John Hill · « **Reply #4 on:** October 04, 2009, 02:52:53 AM »

I cant see, are there any gears in that loverly wooden tower?

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #5 on:** October 04, 2009, 11:28:53 AM »

Yes John -16 gears in there - but haven't a clue what sizes will be collecting this after the Midland Model Eng exibition is over.

Hope it will be in good enough order to warrent a bit of time spending on it.

Gerald -Tony doesn't know this one but puts the date of the design to 1880 -1900???

Gerhard

bogstandard · « **Reply #6 on:** October 04, 2009, 12:14:02 PM »

Gerhard,

I can't see how many sheaves it has on the head, normally 3, which means that with the back gear, 6 speeds. If you mod the motor and belt drive a little, and put twin sheaves on that, you are then looking at a 12 speed machine.

It looks to have a plain bearing head, most probably brass or bronzed bushed (Babbit plain bearing heads usually had a larger bearing holder that they are cast into), so that should cause you no problems if the bearings need to be changed. The only problem with plain bearing heads is the max speed they can run at, but if set up correctly, I found they gave a much superior finish to the cut than a head with bearings.

For the supposedly year of manufacture I am surprised to see what looks like to be a power cross feed on the saddle. A feature a lot of the smaller modern lathes don't have, and certainly a bonus. It even looks to have a tumbler reverse, which means cutting left hand threads won't be a problem.

Ok, it is only looks to be an old lathe, but I am sure with a little tweaking here and there, it will certainly match the performance, or even better, a lot of the smaller modern day machines.

You will need to get the gearing sorted out to find out what sizes of thread it will cut, but initially set up for a fine feed rather than screwcutting, and you will be away with the birds.

Just enjoy your find.

Bogs

John Hill · « **Reply #7 on:** October 04, 2009, 02:57:03 PM »

It is a fine looking machine thats for sure!

I have a feeling some previous, and obviously proud, owner didnt like getting his hands too close to the works and the cross feed, compound and the carriage rack handles looks like enhancements, They do not appear to be from the same era as the tailstock hand wheel.

Having all those gears this appears, to my inexperienced eyes, to be ready for make the chips fly!

I do not see a motor and I wonder what that white thing is behind the head?

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #8 on:** October 09, 2009, 05:12:43 AM »

Off to pick the lathe up after work tonight will take some more pics as I take it appart to fit in car.
Also put some pics of motor and extras as I go on.

Gerhard

Fred Bloggs · « **Reply #9 on:** October 09, 2009, 10:43:10 AM »

Gerhard,

I think the Lathe is a Myford ML2 ( a late 30's/40's design) , dont hold me to the time peroid.

Yours has had some mods (the saddle hand wheel and cross slide/compound cross slide are not standard looking)

The reason I know is that I brought a ML2 when I was in my twenties with a shed load of tooling and then sold the lathe for more than the job lot.

There was a spare cross slide etc which I kept, still got them somewhere in the garage!!!

If I find any techincal info, I did photocopy the manual before I sold it Ill let you know (can always scan and PDF it) not promising though as it was nearly twenty years ago and the Garage is in need of a tidy somewhat.

There is a site on the net that has lots of pics of lathes etc- someone on here will probably know the address.

Regards

Fred by nature if not name

bogstandard · « **Reply #10 on:** October 09, 2009, 11:43:28 AM »

It isn't an ML2 Fred, that had the ends sweeping in to one large foot at the headstock end of the casting. It also never had a power cross feed. I actually restored one a few years ago.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/page12.html

Bogs

tinkerer · « **Reply #11 on:** October 09, 2009, 03:06:48 PM »

There was an old Myford that had an M cast into the legs and the motor was mounted on a shaft under the lathe between the legs.

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #12 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:29:01 PM »

Picked the lathe up last night - Looks ok - a lot of damage to the bed but no lumps only dents and scratches this looks like it has been smoothed/scraped out a long time ago and the movement of the tailstock and the saddle is very nice ( free + firm.)

There are years worth of old oil and grease on the bed and all the gears are so caked with the stuff they stick to your hands.

There are 16 change gears all ok exept 2 gears have a half tooth chipped of - Dont think that would cause any problems.

There is a 1/4 hp single fase motor included (this says on the tin 100 or 200 Volt??????????)

There are 4 speeds(pulleys/ sheeves) and the back gear so I could do 16 speeds with 2 pulleys inbetween motor and lathe

I started today just cleaning and painting some surfaces. Used hammerite blue as the lathe had some faint marks of blue paint on it. I dont think there has been painted surfaces in the last 30 years.

Gerhard

tinkerer · « **Reply #13 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:49:33 PM »

You're doing a really nice job of the clean up. I am surprised you haven't found any markings yet. The only Myford I could find without the name in the bed casting was the one I mentioned, so it probably is not a Myford.

John Hill · « **Reply #14 on:** October 10, 2009, 03:51:31 PM »

The painted bits look very nice Gerhard, also I see some really choice items on the tarp including, maybe, some parts for an auxiliary spindle?

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2009, 04:13:38 PM »

Thanks guys

Tinkerer -There is only one marking on the lathe bed in about 3mm size punched into the bed is 118 no other markings at all.

John there is only one part of the spindle but it is a nice one with the pulley in brass will polish up a treat. -some of the things I dont have a clue about.

There is an extra change gear support but then there is a big one that has a free running pulley on it???? If anybody knows what that is all about please tell.

Gerhard

bogstandard · « **Reply #16 on:** October 10, 2009, 04:38:28 PM »

Looks like you have got a lot to play with Gerhard, you need to find out what everything is for.

Don't worry about the broken teeth, they are very easy to repair and nothing to worry about at this time. When the time comes, just ask.

Bogs

Darren · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2009, 04:56:12 PM »

118 is the only number you need ......

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #18 on:** October 11, 2009, 05:28:59 AM »

Darren I should have expected that one.

Bogs broken teeth wont stop them doing their job as at least half of the 2 broken ones are still intact and mesh just fine. Maybe in a couple of years I could start to learn that as well (be brave enough is what I mean)

NOW THE BIG QUESTION --The lathe has mainly imperial fasteners -but everything that is aftermarket and all the repairs are metric. Most of the stuff I do is metric and it looks like a new topslide leadscrew and a cross slide index ring is going to be needed. DO i keep going in metric -try do convert back to imperial ( I dont want to do that iff not essential as it would cost a lot to buy taps and dies etc.) OR do I leave it a mix that will be a nightmare for anybody that has to do any repairs after me. Or do I change it into a hybrid between metric and imperial by making reversable dials etc.

Gerhard

sbwhart · « **Reply #19 on:** October 11, 2009, 05:34:11 AM »

For my two pence worth keep it mixed and just keep a log of what you do.

Stew

bogstandard · « **Reply #20 on:** October 11, 2009, 06:56:50 AM »

Gerhard,

Everything on your lathe is governed by the lead screw and change gears.

If that is imperial (which I suspect it will be) then everything else that relies on it has to be imperial, otherwise you will end up with a machine that will be almost impossible to use accurately. You cannot mix the two, well you can, but be prepared for trouble ahead.

Imperial screws are not that difficult to obtain. Or I am sure you could get them made. You might even get away with a bit of rework on the lead nuts for now.

With regards to general fasteners, you can use whatever you are happy with.

Bogs

Darren · « **Reply #21 on:** October 11, 2009, 07:10:00 AM »

John, as long as the gear train and leadscrew are of the same type, in this case imperial I assume, would it matter if the crosslide and compound are metric?

Maybe a little demanding on the brain cells remembering you have the two to keep swapping between. But is there anything that could be compromised with a set-up like this?

Raggle · « **Reply #22 on:** October 11, 2009, 10:12:40 AM »

I've no idea what this lathe is but what impresses me most form the first pic is the enormous cross slide travel in relation to centre height. Combined with the power feed it has it looks like a dream to flycut a piece bolted to the milling table seen in the bits that came with it. A good candidate for a vertical slide.

Ray

bogstandard · « **Reply #23 on:** October 11, 2009, 11:04:47 AM »

Darren,

As by the looks of the machine, it has a powered crosslide, in which case the imperial leadscrew would be turning a metric feedscrew.

If like yours, it had no leadscrew, then yes, I would say go metric all round if you wanted to, but because of that interaction, even though it shouldn't make much difference, I would recommend sticking with all imperial.

Even for the resale value alone. Anyone who knew lathes wouldn't want to touch it if it was a mixture of standards.

John

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #24 on:** October 11, 2009, 02:38:58 PM »

I think Imperial for the feedscrews would be better. And I have found a joint in the topslide feedscrew where a longer handle was added so I can just replace that part and keep the origional feedscrew. So in reallity it would still be an imperial lathe but I would like to make the graduated collars in both metric and imperial if the diameter would allow it. The graduated collar at the moment is a brass wheel with masking tape and pen lines on it.

The cross slide travel is not that spectacular at the moment just a very long handle. There is space to change the cross slide to a t-slot table and that would give about 50mm more trvel as well as longer contact with the gib strips - at the cost of some centre hight.???????

The milling table that is included has no feed for up and down. What good would that do as you would have to reset the workpiece opn the table for each cut??????

Darren · « **Reply #25 on:** October 11, 2009, 02:46:38 PM »

Thanks John, that's pretty much how I imagined it. Guess I'd prefer to keep it imperial too though in this case.

Just add a DRO,

gotta be the easiest way out to know were you are.

Fred Bloggs · « **Reply #26 on:** October 13, 2009, 04:37:14 AM »

Quote

It isn't an ML2 Fred, that had the ends sweeping in to one large foot at the headstock end of the casting. It also never had a power cross feed. I actually restored one a few years ago.

Sorry Bogs, I should have checked my info before I went and put a post on the site . Seeing the other pictures that Gerhard thas posted confirms my error

Fred

bogstandard · « **Reply #27 on:** October 13, 2009, 08:22:52 AM »

Don't worry about it Fred, we all get something wrong sometime or other.

We wouldn't be human if we didn't.

In fact I have been called sub human many times.

Bogs

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #28 on:** October 13, 2009, 10:37:41 AM »

Can anybody help Im looking for BA and BSF bolts???? pref of the net ????
Have tried ebay and limited sizes available but not many.

Gerhard

Bluechip · « **Reply #29 on:** October 13, 2009, 10:46:56 AM »

Gerhart

Some BA stuff advertised in ME, Emkay etc. Look on ME suppliers sites.

Try this co. for BSF

If you just want a few, they are useful, a friend uses them.

http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp

Not cheap tho'. But then, what is.

Dave BC

tinkerer · « **Reply #30 on:** October 13, 2009, 11:01:33 AM »

Try this link.
http://www.thomassmithfasteners.com/
http://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #31 on:** October 13, 2009, 03:58:50 PM »

Thank for the links have found the ones I think they are so will order and try 0BA /2BA 5/16 BSF and 3/8 BSF????? - They are expensive!!!!

Progres on the lathe clean up going ok and a lot of the bits that I was worried about are looking fine again and there is going to be very little that I will need to remake.

The cross and topslide are the bigest problems. 1 I desided to keep the wheels that the old owner put on as they seem to be a good idea even if not the propper ones ( as we dont know what lathe it is we dont know what the propper ones are)

2 Both the cros and the top slide has no scales both has 20 TPI treads so will need to make scales but I dont know imperial scales so please if someone could see if they have a 20 TPI tread feedscrew and see how many increments is on the scale????? Maybe a photo as wel please.

So now im stuck untill some bolt arrive.

Gerhard

tinkerer · « **Reply #32 on:** October 13, 2009, 04:12:51 PM »

You are doing a super job on that. Glad I could help with the fasteners. Can you put a picture of a side view of the legs in a post? We will put a name to the lathe in time.

HENNEGANOL · « **Reply #33 on:** October 13, 2009, 06:50:28 PM »

Gerhard,

A 20 tpi thread means that you need to turn the handle 20 times to move one inch, one turn will move it 0.050". So if your scale is large enough to take 50 divisions each division will be .001" or one thousanth of an inch. Which is the standard on most imperial lathes.

However what you must remember is that each 0.001" of cut applied by the cross slide will reduce the diameter of the workpiece by 0.002".

Gerald

Bernd · « **Reply #34 on:** October 13, 2009, 09:54:00 PM »

WOW, what a shiny blue!

Bernd

kvom · « **Reply #35 on:** October 14, 2009, 07:14:55 AM »

Quote from: HENNEGANOL on October 13, 2009, 06:50:28 PM

Gerhard,

A 20 tpi thread means that you need to turn the handle 20 times to move one inch, one turn will move it 0.050". So if your scale is large enough to take 50 divisions each division will be .001" or one thousanth of an inch. Which is the standard on most imperial lathes.

However what you must remember is that each 0.001" of cut applied by the cross slide will reduce the diameter of the workpiece by 0.002".

Gerald

Or you could possibly have 100 divisions so that each was .001" of diameter.

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #36 on:** October 14, 2009, 02:50:34 PM »

Thanks everbody- I am enjoying this a LOT.

Bernd the blue is the only blue metal enamel I had in the Shed But Im liking it more and more. The lathe had a dark but dull blue before so it is as close as I could to keep it the same without breaking the bank.

THe bolts I ordered came today and not one fitted???????

They are the right size but the trheads are wrong.

THey are not metric BA or BSF -That leaves BSW or are there other standards it could be????

Gerald and KVOM the cross slide could possible take a 100 div and the topslide should be able to do 50 so that is what I would try for. Are they Just normal long lines on the 10's and 5's or ar they different.

Thanks for eveybody that has helped so far if I haven't said before.

Gerhard

Darren · « **Reply #37 on:** October 14, 2009, 03:03:17 PM »

Gerhard, the threads on the lathe are likely to be BSW if it's British.

Bluechip · « **Reply #38 on:** October 14, 2009, 03:53:14 PM »

Gerhard

Just to confuse you more, I think you need to establish what any existing (preferably known to be original) screwed components are.

You assume the lathe is British. Probably true, but not certain. If the lathe is from the early part of last century, there were a lot of imports from the USA and the continent.

Up to 20 years ago, I knew of a (Hugh? Hugo? ) DALTON lathe which came to UK in 1917 via the US Army. This would probably have ASME? threads of the standard that pre-dates SAE. According to it's owner it was quite common for these to be still in existance.

Bit larger than yours, but not much.

No, I don't know what happened to it

Do you have a screw pitch gauge ? I think you may need one.

Dave BC

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #39 on:** October 14, 2009, 05:10:51 PM »

Dave

Everything i have is metric ever the 2 braincells. Exept a few ba and bsf bolts (that dont fit).

I have spent the last 2 hours on the net with a handfull of the bolts that is ok. Measured them and counted the threads / inch ( at least the digital callipers can do imperial).. If my measurments and thread count is ok they are Whitworth threads /same as BSW it seems.

I will order just a fev of bsw first and try them to make sure.

Darren · « **Reply #40 on:** October 14, 2009, 05:23:30 PM »

If you need any 1/4 x 26tpi I could put some in the post for you? That's the only size I have in BSW.

John Hill · « **Reply #41 on:** October 14, 2009, 05:52:04 PM »

Gerhard, Whitworth threads have rounded tops and bottoms (if they are true to form) which gives them a distinctive appearance, also be aware that if you use Whitworth bolts you will need Whitworth spanners which do not seem to fit anything else! I think it is worth collecting a set of Whitworth sockets and spanners, new ones are still available.

Bluechip · « **Reply #42 on:** October 14, 2009, 06:11:38 PM »

Darren 1/4" x 26 TPI is BSF not BSW

Gerhard this may help, the A/F of the hexagons is a sign of BSW/F. Why didn't I think of that before

Dave BC

Darren · « **Reply #43 on:** October 14, 2009, 06:35:42 PM »

Ah sorry, my ignorance

I know my mill uses the same thread as these bolts in places, if they are of any use I can send you some. I've got a few you could say ....

bogstandard · « **Reply #44 on:** October 15, 2009, 12:47:41 AM »

Gerhard,

You might find both BSF and BSW in use on the same machine, or even as suggested, an earlier version of SAE threads. It most probably depended how good the design engineer was, and the availability of ready machined fasteners.

The only definite way is to get armed with a set of thread gauges and a micrometer, a sheet of threading charts or a ZEUS book, and sit down and measure them all.

If the bolt is going into a steel part, if might be BSF, as the steel has a higher tensile thread strength than cast iron. So it might be BSW when threaded into cast iron or non ferrous materials.

When I was restoring an old Myford, I found it was easier to make my own bolts out of hex bar rather than chasing about getting bolts with the correct head form, thread and length.

That has most probably confused you even more.

Bogs

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #45 on:** October 15, 2009, 05:57:44 AM »

Bolts all look to be made for job no (shop bolts) Will try BSW and report back.

Tinkerer the legs have "NO5 gap lathe WF&J Barnes C: ROCKFORD ILL USA" on but htey dont fit the lathe also some of the bit that come with the lathe is in their catalogue See post about toolpost turret.

The lathe has a lot to remind me of the T.Taylor of chester Manchester ones on tony site (I will get some pics of the simmularities and post them but is a later and a lot more advanced one that in tony's website. The problem is that the name on the T.Taylor one's is cast into the little legs and mine has donned some American feet.

The leadscrew is 4TPI and 1"diameter
The gears I finnally checked and measured as DP 14 gears with 5/8 bore and 1/8 keyway. and I have Sizes 21 22 23 24 30 35 40 45 55 60 65 70 80 85 95 and 100 IS that a set or some missing?

Gerhard

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #46 on:** October 22, 2009, 04:25:38 PM »

Just a progress report.

The BSW bolt finally came and the thread is correct 5/16 and 3/8 BSW but the bolts wont do untill I have cut the hex heads smaller.Some I will need to buy some dies and remake completely as the space they have to fit in is just so precise that I coulnt modify the standard ones enough.

Gerhard

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #47 on:** October 27, 2009, 04:07:44 PM »

The Cross slide is now working. I made a wooden handle for the cross slide wheel to try to look more like the origional as seen in pic the sling with the wooden knob is the origional but wont work as the mods on the rest of the machine interfers with the sling.

And the legs has been cleaned to bare metal and painted blue as wel. The big chunk of steel over the top is to give beter working hight for my lenght (It was part of the bank door frame)

For the top slide there are a few different attachments, that was perfect for a QCTP so made the pillar to see if it has the space and it looks OK.

Gerhard

tinkerer · « **Reply #48 on:** October 27, 2009, 04:57:12 PM »

Moving right along with it. Looks great. If that wheel is original, there has to be some clues as to the brand in the symbol and words on it. I can't quite makes them out in the pic. One looks to be a symbol and another p?G/6 360. Can't make out any thing on the other spoke.

Bluechip · « **Reply #49 on:** October 27, 2009, 05:07:21 PM »

Tink

Not original I think, words are probably 'Picador England'... 'Fig 360'

Picador made pulleys etc. was like an OEM manufacturer

Here you go, no website it seems

http://www.engnet.co.uk/c/f.aspx/PIC001

Or, if I look properly

http://www.picadoreng.co.uk/

Dave BC

Darren · « **Reply #50 on:** October 28, 2009, 07:53:38 PM »

Quote from: bogstandard on October 15, 2009, 12:47:41 AM

Gerhard,

You might find both BSF and BSW in use on the same machine,

Bogs

Yes I just found both 1/4" BSW & BSF on my mill tonight on the table, BSW for the gib screws and BSF for the Gib locks.

I was scratching my head for a while wondering why the locks were 6mm metric, till I realised that 1/4" BSF and 6mm have the same pitch ...

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #51 on:** November 08, 2009, 04:44:59 PM »

So far I have only found BSW and metric and it is very plain to see the new ones are metric and the old ones BSW

The lathe has a leather gear that conects the headstock gears to the change gears and also changet the DP from ???? to DP14. This leather gear is obvoisly some kind of savety gear but the inside has stripped the key stops it from moving more than 180 deg.

So I need a new gear but not metal as it has to be able to break rather than break the machine.

So making a delrin gear to replace the leather one.

and 20 cuts later

ANd this pic shows to new gear meshing with the gear it is to replace.

The gear tooth shape is not perfect I think I was cutting a small part of a mm high ???dont know how to center more accurately up and down.

Gerhard

Darren · « **Reply #52 on:** November 08, 2009, 05:39:59 PM »

A leather gear? Not heard of one of those before.

Could you show a pic of where it goes?

Nice job on the gear btw, so what if it's a touch out. If it works then job done

AdeV · « **Reply #53 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:29:12 PM »

Quote from: geroli on November 08, 2009, 04:44:59 PM

dont know how to center more accurately up and down.

The way I saw it done was; put a live or dead centre in your tailstock, and bring the centre & tool close together. Now adjust your tool height so it's right on the center height.

I've not been able to prove it, since it turns out the 2MT live centre I have won't fit in the 3MT tailstock (

); and for some reason the live centre won't clamp up in a 2MT->3MT adapter.

ozzie46 · « **Reply #54 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:42:29 PM »

Quote from: AdeV on November 08, 2009, 06:29:12 PM

Quote from: geroli on November 08, 2009, 04:44:59 PM

.

I've not been able to prove it, since it turns out the 2MT live centre I have won't fit in the 3MT tailstock ( ); and for some reason the live centre won't clamp up in a 2MT->3MT adapter.

Check the end of the MT3, there should be a slot for tapered wedge to remove the MT2. Sometimes the MT2 is a little long and hits against the slot for the removal tang on some MT tooling. You might just need to grind off some of the end of the MT2 to get it to fit right.

Just a thought you might want to try.

If this isn't clear I'm sorry but don't know any other way to explain it.
Ron

AdeV · « **Reply #55 on:** November 08, 2009, 06:52:25 PM »

Quote from: ozzie46

Check the end of the MT3, there should be a slot for tapered wedge to remove the MT2. Sometimes the MT2 is a little long and hits against the slot for the removal tang on some MT tooling. You might just need to grind off some of the end of the MT2 to get it to fit right.

Just a thought you might want to try.

If this isn't clear I'm sorry but don't know any other way to explain it.

Ron,

It makes perfect sense, thanks. Unfortunately, it can't be the case, as the live centre has no tang on the end, and seems to be somewhat shorter than a normal MT.

However, it came off a Harrison L5 lathe, and I'm pretty sure they're a Morse taper, rather than some other taper? I wondered if it was worn, but it goes back into the Harrison quite nicely. It's always possible that the MT adapter is knackered, of course...

andyf · « **Reply #56 on:** November 08, 2009, 07:27:23 PM »

Are you sure that the leather gear isn't actually Tufnol?

Andy

trevoratxtal · « **Reply #57 on:** November 09, 2009, 03:22:33 AM »

Hello
The lathe you have is a modified Britannia.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/britannia/page4.html
Original built as a treadle lathe.
The first lathe I ever owned was it brother/sister, It gave me years of service.
I wish you well with it.
Trev

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #58 on:** November 11, 2009, 05:39:22 PM »

Thanks for advice on centering the hight of the cutter- I cut it in the mill and used the spin index so there is no centre to use- may have to make a parralel piece with a tapered tip to use a a setup piece??????

The gear could be tufnoll or some other unknown- it is built of a lot of layers nailed together with brass nails and the gear cut out of it but the layers are flexable ( if you bend one layer) but ridged if you try to bend more tham one.

The gear fits between the tumbler and the change gears. will ad a pic as soon as the legs are ready to carry the lathe.

Gerhard

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #59 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:36:49 AM »

Quote from: geroli on November 11, 2009, 05:39:22 PM

Thanks for advice on centering the hight of the cutter- I cut it in the mill and used the spin index so there is no centre to use- may have to make a parralel piece with a tapered tip to use a a setup piece??????

Gerhard

Gerhard,

To find centre height, take a light cut across the blank, at the rear of the indexer.

Rotate blank 180 degrees.

Then take a same depth, but partial length cut across the blank, at the front of the indexer.

This will show any height discrepancy between the 2 passes.......

David D

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #60 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:46:45 AM »

Thanks David

The simple answer sometimes the most difficult to figure out isnt it
Thanks that is perfect.

Gerhard

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #61 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:55:36 AM »

Gerhard,

We often forget, fixtures, components, and cutters, all have 2 sides!

Or more.......

David D

Darren · « **Reply #62 on:** November 12, 2009, 05:54:59 AM »

Another check would be to line the cutter up at the face of the blank.

When we turn and face a part, even an arbor, we are left with concentric lines and maybe a small pip. Line the center of the cutter to that and then move it around to the cutting area.

NickG · « **Reply #63 on:** November 12, 2009, 08:51:27 AM »

the leather gear will be tufnol, I mashed mine when trying to get the chuck off. Replaced it with a steel one.

Nick

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #64 on:** January 02, 2010, 07:06:42 AM »

Finally made some steel legs for the lathe and a table to place it on so here is the pic of that gear in place.

Will post about the legs later

The problem now is that I need to make a pulley system that will allow belt change etc??????
Some advice would be welcome. -The motor needs to drive a secondary shaft that has to be able to be moved closer or further from the lathe to set tention??????

If anybody has an old lathe that has a secondry shaft behind the lathe please could you include some pictures??

Many thanks Gerhard

Gerhard Olivier · « **Reply #65 on:** January 02, 2010, 12:39:46 PM »

The pics of the legs

And with the change gears

Gerhard

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Author Topic: New Old Lathe (Read 41388 times)

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