New Old Lathe

[Darren]

Gerhard,

You might find both BSF and BSW in use on the same machine,

Bogs

Yes I just found both 1/4" BSW & BSF on my mill tonight on the table, BSW for the gib screws and BSF for the Gib locks.

I was scratching my head for a while wondering why the locks were 6mm metric, till I realised that 1/4" BSF and 6mm have the same pitch ... 

[Gerhard Olivier]

So far I have only found BSW and metric and it is very plain to see the new ones are metric and the old ones BSW

The lathe has a leather gear that conects the headstock gears to the change gears and also changet the DP from ???? to DP14.  This leather gear is obvoisly some kind of savety gear but the inside has stripped the key stops it from moving more than 180 deg.

So I need a new gear but not metal as it has to be able to break rather than break the machine.

So making a delrin gear to replace the leather one.



and 20 cuts later



ANd this pic shows to new gear meshing with the gear it is to replace.




The gear tooth shape is not perfect I think I was cutting a small part of a mm high ???dont know how to center more accurately up and down.

Gerhard

[Darren]

A leather gear? Not heard of one of those before.

Could you show a pic of where it goes?


Nice job on the gear btw, so what if it's a touch out. If it works then job done 

[AdeV]

dont know how to center more accurately up and down.

The way I saw it done was; put a live or dead centre in your tailstock, and bring the centre & tool close together. Now adjust your tool height so it's right on the center height.

I've not been able to prove it, since it turns out the 2MT live centre I have won't fit in the 3MT tailstock ( ); and for some reason the live centre won't clamp up in a 2MT->3MT adapter.

[ozzie46]

.

I've not been able to prove it, since it turns out the 2MT live centre I have won't fit in the 3MT tailstock ( ); and for some reason the live centre won't clamp up in a 2MT->3MT adapter.

 Check the end of the MT3, there should be a slot for tapered wedge to remove the MT2. Sometimes the MT2 is a little long and hits against the slot for the removal tang on some MT tooling. You might just need to grind off some of the end of the MT2 to get it to fit right.

 Just a thought you might want to try.
 

  If this isn't clear I'm sorry but don't know any other way to explain it.
   Ron

[AdeV]

 Check the end of the MT3, there should be a slot for tapered wedge to remove the MT2. Sometimes the MT2 is a little long and hits against the slot for the removal tang on some MT tooling. You might just need to grind off some of the end of the MT2 to get it to fit right.

 Just a thought you might want to try.
 

  If this isn't clear I'm sorry but don't know any other way to explain it.

Ron,

It makes perfect sense, thanks. Unfortunately, it can't be the case, as the live centre has no tang on the end, and seems to be somewhat shorter than a normal MT.

However, it came off a Harrison L5 lathe, and I'm pretty sure they're a Morse taper, rather than some other taper? I wondered if it was worn, but it goes back into the Harrison quite nicely. It's always possible that the MT adapter is knackered, of course...

[andyf]

Are you sure that the leather gear isn't actually Tufnol?

Andy

[trevoratxtal]

Hello
The lathe you have is a modified Britannia.
 http://www.lathes.co.uk/britannia/page4.html
Original built as a treadle lathe.
The first lathe I ever owned was it brother/sister, It gave me years of service.
I wish you well with it.
Trev

[Gerhard Olivier]

Thanks for advice on centering the hight of the cutter-  I cut it in the mill and used the spin index so there is no centre to use- may have to make a parralel piece with a tapered tip to use a a setup piece??????

The gear could be tufnoll or some other unknown- it is built of a lot of layers nailed together with brass nails and the gear cut out of it but the layers are flexable ( if you bend one layer) but ridged if you try to bend more tham one.

The gear fits between the tumbler and the change gears. will ad a pic as soon as the legs are ready to carry the lathe.

Gerhard

[Stilldrillin]

Thanks for advice on centering the hight of the cutter-  I cut it in the mill and used the spin index so there is no centre to use- may have to make a parralel piece with a tapered tip to use a a setup piece??????

Gerhard

Gerhard,

To find centre height, take a light cut across the blank, at the rear of the indexer.

Rotate blank 180 degrees.

Then take a same depth, but partial length cut across the blank, at the front of the indexer.

This will show any height discrepancy between the 2 passes.......  

David D

[Gerhard Olivier]

Thanks David

The simple answer sometimes the most difficult to figure out isnt it
Thanks that is perfect.

Gerhard

[Stilldrillin]

Gerhard,

We often forget, fixtures, components, and cutters, all have 2 sides!

Or more.......  

David D

[Darren]

Another check would be to line the cutter up at the face of the blank.

When we turn and face a part, even an arbor, we are left with concentric lines and maybe a small pip. Line the center of the cutter to that and then move it around to the cutting area.

[NickG]

the leather gear will be tufnol, I mashed mine when trying to get the chuck off. Replaced it with a steel one.

Nick

[Gerhard Olivier]

Finally made some steel legs for the lathe and a table to place it on so here is the pic of that gear in place.



Will post about the legs later

The problem now is that I need to make a pulley system that will allow belt change etc??????
Some advice would be welcome. -The motor needs to drive a secondary shaft that has to be able to be moved closer or further from the lathe to set tention??????

If anybody has an old lathe that has a secondry shaft behind the lathe please could you include some pictures??

Many thanks Gerhard

[Gerhard Olivier]

The pics of the legs



And with the change gears



Gerhard