Making a MT taper

[bogstandard]

Tink,

As Darren says.

On a smaller machine, they can't usually stand the heavy cutting forces that a straight in approach can produce. I could use straight in cutting, but I have always done it the offset way, and it is difficult to break the habits of a lifetime.

I am still putting my lube on with a squirty bottle, and will continue to do so until I can get my spray lube system up and running. I do have pumped flood coolant, but I won't use it because of the way the cabinets are designed, I can't get to the tank to clean it out, so it has never been filled up and used.


Bogs

[John Hill]

John , do you have the sloped panel in place between the cabinets?  I put mine aside and now the coolant tank lives just behind the brake pedal and directly under the coolant drain.  I still hate getting in and scooping the oil off the top of the coolant as the tank is a real awkward darn thing.

[bogstandard]

John, my courtesy plate, if you can call it that, is still in position, and acts as a backstop for the heavy duty shelf I have put between the cabinets.

Without it there, all my chucks would be liable to get pushed back and end up on the floor.

I am not bothered, as flood coolant, especially one that has such coarse control can be a PITA if it starts to throw coolant about.

I will just persevere with bottle fed until the spraymist units are up and running. I ordered the final flexi hoses that are required last night, so they will then go onto my tuit list.


John

[tinkerer]

Waiting for the change gears is like watching grass grow. I called and found it may be two more weeks.  I spent some time adjusting backlash out of the top slide. Can't seem to get better than .003. Went on to other things, like tuning the chain saw, lubing the cement mixer,waxing the tool surfaces (table saw, bandsaw, jointer etc.) I guess next, I will sharpen some drill bits and practice grinding soom cutters for the lathe. Oh yeah, I kill time reading all of the new posts too.

[kvom]

I use the 29.5 method normally, but for the small threads used in model engines (e.g., 5-40), I've been using a 1-pass straight-in method to get partial threads that are straight, and then finishing with a die.  Doing it this way means that my threading tool doesn't need to be as precisely ground.

Tink, since you live fairly close by, let me know if you'd care to get together one of these days.

[tinkerer]

Tink, since you live fairly close by, let me know if you'd care to get together one of these days.

I didn't realize anyone lived near Marietta. I would love to get together. I'll send you an email with my info.

[tinkerer]

As I was going through Mark's (old-biker-uk) website, marveling at his talent and myriad of hobbies, the doorbell rang. I got to the door in time to see the brown truck drive off and found this setting in the doorway.

So much for two weeks, I think he told me that so I wouldn't bug him about it. Tomorrow is going to be a good day in the shop.

[bogstandard]

Forget about those wiggly edged things, think about what you can do with that great bolt!


Bogs

[tinkerer]

A fun morning. I turned a piece of aluminum down to .50 and proceeded to set up for threading 1/2 X 13. Took quite awhile to figure out the gear mounts could slide up and down to provide the correct spacing, but I finally got it.

Then I found a cutter that appeared to be about the right angle and put it in the top slide and tested how fast my reactions would have to be to stop the motor. I used 120 rpm and I had plenty of time. I found that I needed to back off the cutter before reversing the motor. This is the only picture I took of the setup after I made a scribing line with the cutter.

This is the cutter I used.

This is the result. Now I know I can do this, I will take the measurements and make a mockup of the draw bar using the aluminum, to prove the concept. then I will make one out of steel.