Author Topic: Three Cylinder Radial Engine  (Read 82617 times)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #100 on: January 10, 2010, 06:57:44 AM »
Hi Chaps

The cold snap we're having in the UK as kept me out of the shed for the last couple of days, so instead of freezing my nuts off maching, I've been in the warm drawing up the engine. So this post is by way of an experiment, I've attached one of the drawings as a PDF file, a bit of fead back as to how it opens and reads would be apreciated, I've just got the assy sht to do, so as long as I'm not breaking any copyright I'll add the drawings as a down load.

Cheers

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #101 on: January 10, 2010, 06:59:12 AM »
Well just tried opening the PDF some of the lines seem a bit heavy, lets see how the feed back goes.

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline jim

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #102 on: January 10, 2010, 07:02:52 AM »
downloaded ok, had to expand it quite a bit to read everything (as you say abit heavy on the lines) :thumbup:
if i'd thought it through, i'd have never tried it

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #103 on: January 10, 2010, 08:29:14 AM »
Like wot Jim says......  :thumbup:

It`s sideways. Got a crick in me neck now!  ::)  :D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline NickG

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #104 on: January 10, 2010, 10:03:09 AM »
Yeah don't know if it's the lines or resolution, at 100% it looks alright but too small to read  :lol: So when you zoom in the lines get too thick. Looks good though  :thumbup:

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #105 on: January 10, 2010, 10:16:19 AM »
Thanks for feed back chaps:- had another try is this any better.

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #106 on: January 10, 2010, 10:17:12 AM »
That looks better  :thumbup: what do you think.

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #107 on: January 10, 2010, 10:39:47 AM »
That looks better  :thumbup: what do you think.

Stew

I think that`s spot on!  :thumbup:

Nice & clear at 85% on my laptop. Well done Stew!  :clap:

David D
David.

Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline Darren

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #108 on: January 10, 2010, 10:43:10 AM »
Perfect Stew,  :clap:

What prog did you use to draw it?
You will find it a distinct help… if you know and look as if you know what you are doing. (IRS training manual)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #109 on: January 10, 2010, 11:00:26 AM »
Parat cad   ::)

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline kellswaterri

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #110 on: January 10, 2010, 11:12:36 AM »
Hi Stew, your link to the drawings would not open for me...indeed I am having some problems at the moment using the site...could be ''Snow'' on the lines. :bang:
                                                                                                   John.

Offline NickG

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #111 on: January 11, 2010, 05:13:31 AM »
Perfect for me Stew  :thumbup:
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #112 on: January 11, 2010, 07:52:04 AM »
Not so cold today so got the pistons finished.

Set up for drilling gudgiun hole. find edges and index to corect position, all three were drilled from the same setting



The inside of the piston requires milling out to give clearance for the con rod little end.

This is the set up, a length of 4mm rod was inserted in gudgion pin hole then squares this up to the vice,



At my first attemp I used a 3mm slot drill but broke it so went up the a 4.5 end mill that worked ok

And her they are done



And on the crank



I've just got three bits to make before I start assy and test, so I've attached the drawing that shows these last three bits

Have fun

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline NickG

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #113 on: January 11, 2010, 08:27:42 AM »
Looking spot on those ground pistons!  :bow:
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline Bernd

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #114 on: January 11, 2010, 09:22:50 AM »
Looking good Stew.

You won't be able to upload the file. Admin has removed the "download" section for now. It's not working properly. I believe he's working on it. Give it some time.

Bernd
Route of the Black Diamonds

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #115 on: January 11, 2010, 11:35:25 AM »
Thanks Chaps

Bernd thanks for the download info.

A good afternoons work today making the return crank, this is a tricky little beast, I've had a good head scratch over it :scratch: all the drawing show it as one piece, however I think it will be easyer to make as two pieces and still function correctly.

The drive pin is positioned relative to the drive slots and its position times the engine, you can get the position with a rotary table or you can use cordinates from the centre line, I've dimensioned the drawing so you can use either method.

OK first job chunk of 30mm free cutting mild steel in the lathe turn down to 1" and put a small centre in the end,



Keeping the job in the chuck transfer the chuck over to the mill with a centre in the quill wind it down tight into the centre in the end of the job, clamp the chuck to the table, Zero your dials or DRO, You've now got your centre datum.



Then mill the face up to get rid of the centre its done its job and it will only get in the way down line, mill flats and then mill drive slot 3/16"






Then to accuratly locate the drive pin move to drawing cordinates.



Centre drill then drill with a number drill to give a tight fit on 1/8" silver steel, spot of loctite and press pin in using mill head.



Transfer over to lathe turn diameter and part off,



Face up the back, and thats the beast tamed.



and this is where it fits on the crank



Have fun

Stew



A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline NickG

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #116 on: January 11, 2010, 01:23:55 PM »
That part looks a nightmare to do! Well done Stew, 1 down 2 to go? It's going to be a powerhouse of an engine this one!

Nick
Location: County Durham (North East England)

Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #117 on: January 11, 2010, 08:57:25 PM »
Loving this. Radials and v-twins for me please..

Nice.  :bow:


Eric
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Offline raynerd

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #118 on: January 12, 2010, 02:48:36 AM »
Machining of the return crank was superb! I learn a lot from reading your detailed posts.... please keep them coming  :clap: :clap: :clap:

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #119 on: January 12, 2010, 03:18:16 AM »
Nick,Eric,Chris

Thanks for your kind feed back

Cheers

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Gerhard Olivier

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #120 on: January 12, 2010, 04:09:33 AM »
Nice job Stew

This one is coming on great

Gerhard
Guernsey
Channel Islands

Offline ref1ection

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #121 on: January 13, 2010, 11:52:55 PM »
Even if I don`t attempt this for years, still tons to be learned from the build!

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #122 on: January 16, 2010, 06:40:09 AM »
Gerhard/Reflection

Thanks for your intersts and positive comments.

Shop time over the last couple of days has been a bit restricted by other commitments. Any way managed to get a few hours in and complete the port flange. By way of a off topic but related bit of kit I took delivery of an coax indicator, I got it from amadeal on ebay www.amadeal.co.uk at £44 + post it was the best price I could find in the UK.



Its quite a long bit of kit and I was strugling with head room what with my rotary table and collet chuck adding to the height, then I remembered a tip from a friend that I could use M3 collets this would give me an additional 3" of room to play with. The coax has a 10mm shank but my collet set is imperial so i made a split collar to use with a 1/2" collet (note to self get a metric set of M3 collets).

So her we are



And this is how you use it.



With a stylus in the bore (or OD) and the outrigger stopped with a magnetic stand, this is to stop it whizzing round and to keep the dial facing you. Run the mill at about 200 rpm, adjust one direction to a point where you get the least dial movement, do the same in the other direction, repeat again, repeat again, after three interation you should end up with zero movement, and thats it you're on centre line, a lot easyer and quicker than having to crane your neck with a dti.

Back to the port flange, for my first attemp I used a bit of scrap yard alluminium phospher bronze, but this material was up to its usual tricks and was a bitch to machine, I don't know now why I tried it. Made onother from a nice bit of free cutting brass, this is a straight forward turning job so no pics.

Now for another bit of off topic but related. The ports are 2mm wide and I don't have a 2mm diameter cutter, cutters this size cost an arm and a leg, and I can't see me using this size very much, but I remember reading that in the "good old days" people would use a D bits to cut the steam ports for model loco, so I set too and made some 2mm dia D bits.

Truning the dia



Sectioning to 1.1 mm:- 0.1 above centre



I blacked the cutter up so I could see what I was doing then with a fine file and under a magnifying glass I backed the cutter off.



Heated them up to cherry red and quenched in water, then gave them a rub on a stone to sharpen the edges up, and her we are done.



To machine out the ports I decided to use the PCD function on the DRO combined with the movement of the rotary table.

Centre the job up using the Coax indicator.

Set Rotary table on zero deg

Set PCD function to drill 8 BA clearance for the clamp screws and drill.

Then set PCD function for port position, drill 1.8 mm hole in each port position using DRO.

Rotate RT +13.5 deg use DRO to drill 1.8 mm at each port position

Return RT to zero then back -13.5 deg use DRO the drill 1.8mm at each port position.

Her we are  with all the holes drilled



Then using the little D bit join the holes up by rotating RT 27 deg.



Thats it job done, her it is in position. The D bits worked great them milled a nice accurate 2mm wide slot.



I've completed the assembly drawing for the engine so I've attached it to this thread.

Have fun

Stew


 
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Powder Keg

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #123 on: January 16, 2010, 08:49:20 AM »
I can almst hear you blipping the throttle Stew    :clap: :clap: :clap:
Wesley P
A Gismo ??? If it has a flywheel or spins and is made with small parts. I'll take one! If it makes noise, moves, or requires frequent oiling and dusting it's a better deal yet. It's especially right if its shiny and bright; but if it's dirty and dull it wont mater at all...

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Three Cylinder Radial Engine
« Reply #124 on: January 16, 2010, 11:04:49 AM »
Thanks Powder Keg

Got the Orbital Valve machined up, you have to get the thickness of the valve a very accurate fit in the valve chest, so first thing I did was to measure everything up, to determine what thickness it needed to be. Turned up a chunk of cast iron, transfered it over to the mill still in the chuck, well by now you should know the routine, drilled 6 * 1/8" holes, then back onto the lathe to finish off, the under cut face



Parted it off then pushed it hard up against a parallel in the chuck (don't forget to remove the parallel) then faced it off to thickness + 0.20 for lapping each side, and undercut the face.

And her it is in place, you can see the open valve port on the left the other ports are closed off.



At this point I thought thats it all the maching done, but no I've forgotten the stand.

Have fun

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire