Author Topic: Three Cylinder Radial Engine (Read 82582 times)

Powder Keg · « **Reply #50 on:** December 14, 2009, 11:28:59 AM »

I can almost see the video

Great job so far!

spuddevans · « **Reply #51 on:** December 14, 2009, 12:02:29 PM »

That is looking mighty nice

Tim

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #52 on:** December 14, 2009, 01:04:07 PM »

That`s taking shape very nicely Stew!

David D

raynerd · « **Reply #53 on:** December 14, 2009, 02:26:05 PM »

Looks amazing Stew! keep it up...

Divided he ad · « **Reply #54 on:** December 14, 2009, 02:37:33 PM »

Very much liking the finning and the 2 tone look Stew

Looking forward to seeing the rest take shape

Ralph.

NickG · « **Reply #55 on:** December 14, 2009, 02:41:35 PM »

Really nice that Stew, it looks fantastic. It's quite a size too, what is the bore and stroke?

Nick

sbwhart · « **Reply #56 on:** December 14, 2009, 03:04:44 PM »

Hi Nick

5/8" bore * 1/2" stroke, Bothe the elmer design and the Royal have the same bore and stroke, the main diference between the two is that the Royal has a bigger crank case, and the con rods share a common axis.

Cheers

Stew

NickG · « **Reply #57 on:** December 15, 2009, 10:29:16 AM »

Stew, thanks for that. Sounds like it might be pretty powerful and high revving. So it has some sort of rotary valve does it?

Nick

Brass_Machine · « **Reply #58 on:** December 15, 2009, 10:50:10 AM »

Wow Stew... That is looking nice!

Eric

sbwhart · « **Reply #59 on:** December 15, 2009, 11:59:50 AM »

Thanks for your kind comments Chaps.

Nick its got another prort face that sits over the galeries in the crank case these port faces are more critical to cut them I need a 2mm slot drill you then have a rotary slide valve that precesses around driven by the crank shaft, it'll be clearer when i show it all put together.

Any way on with the cylinder heads:- cut some 1/4" ally plate leaving 1mm big all round, and made some toolmaker buttons, the plates were threaded M6 and the buttons attached.

Then gripping onto the button a register was turned up a nice fit in the cylinders and the heads skimed off to 4mm thick.

Then on parallels the button was clocked up to bring its centre line onto the quils centre line.

Then it was just a mater of using the DRO to find the position to drill the bolt holes, as I've shown before.

I want to fit a little brass boss on the head as a bit of bling, so first off ground up a radius form tool, I just took advantage of the rad that had worn on the edge of my off hand grinding wheel. Then using this form tool a nice rad was produced on a bit of brass this was then threaded M6 and parted off.

And screwed into the heads, this is how they look, a bit of tidying is still required but things are looking OK.

Cheers

Stew

NickG · « **Reply #60 on:** December 15, 2009, 01:39:18 PM »

Looking very impressive! Will it have a flywheel or prop? Or should I just wait and see?

chuck foster · « **Reply #61 on:** December 15, 2009, 07:16:58 PM »

nice looking engine stew

................can't wait to see a video (hint hint) of it running.

chuck

sbwhart · « **Reply #62 on:** December 16, 2009, 03:08:19 AM »

Thanks again Chaps

Nick its got a 2" dia fly wheel, not quite decided yet how to bling it if at all but I quite like composite fly wheels brass rim ally hub.

With regards to the valve movement, I've seen a pic of a Elmer radial that uses the same type of valve built with a perspex cover so you can see the action, I think it was built by Marv, if it was, he may be kind enough to post us the pic, if he reads this thread.

Cheers

Stew

mklotz · « **Reply #63 on:** December 16, 2009, 12:05:52 PM »

I think this is the picture to which you refer, Stew...

The valve seals against the inside of the plastic so it's a bit tricky to lap the valve to just the right thickness to obtain that seal.

sbwhart · « **Reply #64 on:** December 16, 2009, 12:15:54 PM »

Thanks Marv

Much appreciated that perspex cover is a real cleaver way to demonstrate the valve movement.

Regards

Stew

NickG · « **Reply #65 on:** December 16, 2009, 03:41:30 PM »

Very nice Marv. These are deceptive, they look so simple from the outside!

Nick

sbwhart · « **Reply #66 on:** December 17, 2009, 11:45:31 AM »

Hi Chaps

Thanks again guys for your comments and interest

Had a right good do in the shed today.

First bit steam chest, turned out of a bit of 1 5/8" ally:- turn od then a big drill down the midle bore to size, transfer over still in chuck to the mill clock up OD to line up with quill and drill the holes on the PCD, the DRO realy does make this an easy job.

Part off and face to length:- job done

Next bit steam chest cover this is a bit more tricky as its not very thick:- turn up OD, turn step then with a trepan tool carve out the groove in the face.

Here we are trepanning

Drill and tap 1/4" * 32 ME

Over to the mill still in the chuck for drilling PCD

Back onto the lathe for partin off

Turn a threaded mandrel 1/4" * 32 ME.

And screw the cover on, then very gently small cuts and a sharp tool face it off to length and turn register step to fit in steam chest.

Thats another bit done.

Next up bearing housing:- Chunk of 2" ally skim up OD then turn up reduced diameter, the drawing calls for this to be tapered, but I'll need to chuck on the taper to do the other end:- forget it, I'll turn it parallel, if I decide I want it tapered I'll set it up on a lose mandrel when I've got the rest done.

First centre drill then bigger and bigger drills finishing up with a 3/4"

Then with my favourite boring bar bore 7/8" for bearing.

Part off

At that called it a day.

This is the steam chest and cover in place and the part finished bearing housing.

Have fun

Stew

raynerd · « **Reply #67 on:** December 17, 2009, 01:57:30 PM »

This is coming together really fast - incredible work.

Chris

Bernd · « **Reply #68 on:** December 17, 2009, 04:21:29 PM »

Really starting to look good there Stew. You've progressed quite fast on that build.

Can't wait to see and hear it run.

Bernd

NickG · « **Reply #69 on:** December 18, 2009, 04:15:22 AM »

Looks stunning Stew. Brilliant. Getting tool envy over your DRO, I've used them before and loved it, makes things a lot easier and the PCD feature looks really good.

Nick

sbwhart · « **Reply #70 on:** December 21, 2009, 04:55:52 AM »

Got a little bit more done this morning, the cold weather and family commitments have slow the build down a bit.

Finishing off the bearing housing:- I hadn't left enough flat surface for the screws to sit on so I needed to set the housing up on a lose mandrel to turn the dia down a bit so decided as I was already set up to taper the housing as the drawing.

Made a lose mandrel from a stub of steel faced off and tapped M8 with a cap screw with a big washer. You use a lose mandrel on jobs where getting things dead concentric is not important, the fit of the mandrel in the bore can be like a prick in a shirt sleeve to use the correct work shop term.

This is the mandrel

Put the housing on lightly nip up the cap screw and clock it up tighten the cap screw check that nothings moved

Machine away the bits you don't want.

I've bought some M3 stainless steel dome nuts that I think will look real well.

Cheers

Stew

Darren · « **Reply #71 on:** December 21, 2009, 05:35:43 AM »

That is looking stunning Stew, getting a nice look to it all round

NickG · « **Reply #72 on:** December 21, 2009, 06:17:01 AM »

Those stainless nuts finish it nicely!

Very nice work Stew.

Nick

Stilldrillin · « **Reply #73 on:** December 21, 2009, 07:42:23 AM »

That`s all coming together beautifully Stew!

David D

Rob.Wilson · « **Reply #74 on:** December 21, 2009, 10:17:04 AM »

Great job Stew ,,stunning workmanship

Rob

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Author Topic: Three Cylinder Radial Engine (Read 82582 times)

Rob.Wilson