some of my accessories.

[wheeltapper]

Hi
after showing some of my pics on the introduction thread I thought you might be interested in some of the accessories I have made.

first is an adjustable grinding rest


then a cross drilling jig


and finally a knurling tool


thats it for now, more bits next time .

cheers
Roy

[Mike K]

Very nice, Roy.  I have the same grinder rest.   

Mike

[JimM]

Nice looking tools

How well does the grinding stand work, I've got the Harald Hall books and was thinking about making one of those (or perhaps the advanced version)

Cheers

Jim

[wheeltapper]

Hi Jim
I'm quite happy with mine, it's not the quickest for adjusting but it's nice to be able to sharpen tools to the same angle every time.

I looked at the advanced version as well but I'd just started this lark and I chose the easy option.

hope this helps
Roy

[Brass_Machine]

Looks good. Any of those made from plans?

Eric

[wheeltapper]

Hi
Yes, they are loosely based on Harold Halls articles in Model Engineers Workshop, the grinding rest is an exact copy, the grinding jig was hacked from steel bar instead of a casting and the  knurling tool looks a bit like the original.

cheers
Roy

[xo18thfa]

Roy:  very nice work on the shop accessories.  Thanks for showing us.  I have Mr Hall's book with the grinding table plan.  It is on the "to-do" list.  What is you impression now that you have had some time with it.

Thanks, Bob

[wheeltapper]

Hi Bob.
I like it. It's nice to be able to sharpen to a consistent angle.
what it really needs is a half nut on the adjuster, It takes time to wind the slide across.

perhaps a future mod 

cheers
Roy

[Rob.Wilson]

Hi Roy 

some very nice tooling you have made there  i like the tool sharpening rest 


Cheers Rob

[xo18thfa]

I was looking closer at the plan last night.  Mr Hall has a mod to the fence, actually the halfnut, to help cut back on all the cross travel.

I have a few 7/8" dia steel balls.  Do you think one would work for the table pivot, rather than the 25mm plastic he specifies?

This table is definitely going to happen in my shop.

Thanks  Bob

[wheeltapper]

Hi
that mod sounds interesting, I haven't got the book, mine came from the mag plan.

I don't see why a steel ball won't work but I suspect, and this is only my opinion, that when clamping a plastic ball, it defoprms slightly, giving more grip, whereas a steel ball will need tightening up more.

mind you, I didn't have a stel ball so I bought a plastic one. being a beginner I was following the plan exactly,time for experiments when I get some more experience.

lets see some pics when you start because 

there, I've been wanting to use that for ages 

cheers
Roy

[xo18thfa]

Hi Roy:  Mr Hall's modification in the book is to lengthen the fence carrier from 20mm to 45mm and tap 4 holes M5 at 10mm intervals instead of just the one. 

Good point, I will go with the plastic ball pivot.

Do you have the plan for the drill bit attachment??

[johnny123]

I would really like a picture of the underneath of that adjustable tool holder for grinding?
                          johnny

[wheeltapper]

No sooner said than done



I already had this one, if you want a different view give me a shout.

cheers
Roy

[xo18thfa]

Thanks Roy:  Can you rotate 90 degrees for a look at the pivot ball.

Thank you.  Bob

[wheeltapper]

Hi
I found this one I took whilst assembling.
is it any help?


otherwise I'll have to remove it from the grinder bench.

Cheers
Roy

[xo18thfa]

Perfect Roy, thanks a lot.  A picture is truly worth 1000 words.  I purchased a copy of Mr Hall's book from Tee Publications.  It has all of the plans for the various attachments.  If you were build all that, as well as a nice wood tool case, the set would be an heirloom work.

Thanks, again Bob

[Chuck in E. TN]

xo18thfa,
I know this is an old thread, but would an older mouse ball work for the pivot? It's steel cored and has a rubber jacket. Maybe best of both worlds?

Chuck in E. TN

[wongster]

Hello Roy,

Do you happen to take pics while making the parts?

Regards,
Wong

[wheeltapper]

Hi Guys.

I can only find these two.





Are they any help, if you want to see a particular part I'll get a pic of it.

cheers
Roy

[wheeltapper]

Hi
I found 5 more pics but I need to resize them before I upload.
I'll do that tomorrow, its beddy bye time now.

Roy

[wongster]

Great!!!  Thanks Roy.

I'm bad at looking at plans.  The pics a little too small in the book on some of the parts I'm not sure about (the 2 pcs that form the dovetail beneath the table etc).

May I know the function of the little capscrew on the fence that is horizontal to the table?

Regards,
Wong

[jiihoo]

Hi Wong,

I haven't built the grinding rest (yet), just looked at the pics in the book, but maybe I can still comment.

That horizontal cap screw in the fence is a stop. In the grinding instructions in the book you will notice that in most cases the table and the fence is adjusted and left fixed. The tool to be sharpened is then put in a holder and the user will manually glide the holder back and forth on the table along the fence. In this mode of operation the cap screw you mentioned is used as a stop to stop the tool holder from traveling too far. For example when grinding an end mill the stop is used to make sure you only grind one tooth and don't fall off the end of it in the middle of the end mill and start accidentally grinding the adjacent or the opposite one.


Cheers,


Jari

(P.S. I _will_ post in the introduction section real soon now, just as soon as I get some decent pictures taken :-)

[wheeltapper]

Morning all.
as promised, some more pics.










hope these help, if you want a specific pic give me a yell.
Roy

[wongster]

Jari, thanks for the info. When you build yours, please take pics of your machining process.

Roy,  thanks for those pics!!! how did you machine the big countersunk for the plastic ball? My plastic balls should arrive from UK next week. Received the transfer punches yesterday. Think RDG split the items to lower cost.

Regards,
Wong

[wheeltapper]

Hi
I was talking about countersinks in this thread
http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4531.30
saves saying the same thing twice.

Roy

[Bogstandard]

Roy,

A very nice project you have going there.

It's nice to see how you start off with a basic unit, then add bits n' bobs when either the need arises or you feel like making something.

I have no need for such a unit, as I have all little bits of holding tooling that allow me to do it all on my surface grinder, but I am sure, that if I couldn't go that way, I would be making one of these instead.


Nice ones.


John

[wongster]

I don't have such wide angle tool and so thought that the 2 countersinks are machined on the lathe. If I remember correctly, they're 120 degree. I'll go find one. Hope it can be used on my Sherline mill.

Regards,
Wong

[wheeltapper]

Thanks for the comments Bogs, praise from Caesar indeed.

Roy

[xo18thfa]

xo18thfa,
I know this is an old thread, but would an older mouse ball work for the pivot? It's steel cored and has a rubber jacket. Maybe best of both worlds?

Chuck in E. TN

Hi Chuck:  I did not build this table, so I can't really answer that.  I'd go with the hard plastic as Mr hall specifies.

[xo18thfa]

Roy:  How did you do your graduated handwheels?  I did mine on the lathe with a paper tape rapped around the chuck and a "V" tool turned sideways.

Bob