Hi Johnny, it sounds like the real issue you have is a matter of volume produced versus amount consumed. Your regulator is set to kick on the compressor when it gets down to a preset level, and turn it off at it high preset. If it is dropping pressure below the low preset, and running while running your tools and continuing to decline, you simply are using more air than that compressor can supply. Changing the pulley will allow you to put a bigger motor to drive it, but it will drive the compressor faster than it was designed to turn, and they are not exactly robust unless you have a comercial duty compressor, so it will go bang, and break a rod or blow the reeds out, or some other catastrophic failure. If it's air tools that consume, you can simply get used to letting the compressor catch up, and no loss except time. If it is not keeping up with say coolant spray systems and other very small usage issues, you just need a bigger compressor. If it is not keeping up with sand or bead blasting, it isn't a comercial duty unit, as those are the only ones which will keep up with the consumption of a blaster, for the most part. Most compressors are designed to run at about seven to eight hundred rpm. Most compressor duty motors have two capacitors, a start and a run capacitor, and run at 3450, with a proper ratio on the pulleys to bring it down to the seven to eight hundred. All my first compressors were cobled together out of automotive a/c compressors and the biggest motor at hand, and were limited to providing enough air to break loose all the lugs on a wheel before not having enough pressure, and only comercially made ones have ever had enough volume capacity to meet my needs with air tools. Almost any compressor should easily be able to keep air running a mist or spray coolant system, unless you've got half a dozen spray heads. If the issue is air tools, you've got to bite the bullet and get a larger compressor with a higher rating on the CFMs at ninety pounds, use that number because it is the industry standard for comparison and will give you an accurate equating of different machines. No matter what a compressor says it has for horsepower, the electric label tells the truth. It takes seven and a half amps at 115 running, to equal one horsepower, and that does not account for losses in the belt or anywhere else in the system. My Sears, four horse oilless compressor was in fact two horsepower, and the rating in foot high letters on the side of the tank came from the maximum peak power rating of the motor, and not the continuous rating. I say was because, like most oilless compressors, it started flinging pieces or rod and piston around the shop one day a few years ago. I hope this helps, I'd be glad to clarify anything that doesn't make sense. Good luck, and let me know if I can help in any way. cheers
mad jack
