Author Topic: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine  (Read 159942 times)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #50 on: January 27, 2011, 05:21:46 PM »
Hi Nick

I measured, then tried them for fit just a little bit of clearance.

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #51 on: February 04, 2011, 10:56:40 AM »
I bet you're wondering where I've bin with this, well had a few days out over the weekend spent in windy Cornwall.

Got a bit done over the last couple of days made the nuts for the glands.

Not much to these except try and make them in one go to get the thread concentric with the bore and to ream the bore.



Also lapped the port face nice a flat using a bit of fine wet and dry on a flat surface, this is so the slide valve makes a nice seating onto it.



I cut all the studs to length I'm just waiting for some stud lock to be delivered to fix them in place.

Made the slide valve, I made both valves in one piece saves setting up. Start by milling a bit of bar to size then as a guide mark out the recess.



Then over onto the mill I like to work from the centre out but any way you're happy with will do its really quite easy if you've got a DRO I made slide valves without the DRO and you really have to be carful how you manage the back lash or you can get it all wrong. The first cut only has to be correct as you deepen the pocket you can finish the cut short it won't matter a jot it's only the edge that does the work. Just work clock wise around the pocket so you're not climb milling.

First done



Second done



Flip it over and do the back

Slot for rod



Check that depth is good



Slot for cross bar.



Then cut it in half to make the two, and mill to length and don't forget to lap the face nice and flat same as for the cylinder.



Next I tried out my new mini vice to make the cross bar this is made from a bit of 1/4" square mild steel again make the two together.

Put the bit of bar on a flat plate put the vice over the top of it tighten vice that the bar gripped nice and level,



Then transfer the little vice to the big vice drill and tap.



And thats the slide valve done and fitted.



Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #52 on: February 04, 2011, 11:52:41 AM »
Stew.
That last pic sums it up nicely!  :clap:

Coming together, and looking well.....  :thumbup:

David D
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Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline GWRdriver

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #53 on: February 04, 2011, 12:40:10 PM »
Stew,
I haven't checked on you in a while . . . I like your work.
Cheers,
GWRdriver
Nashville TN

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #54 on: February 04, 2011, 12:54:54 PM »
This project is coming along very nice Stew.

Those tiny vices are a nice bit of kit when it comes to swinging around those 'unholdable' bits that need machining. I basically got laughed at when I first showed mine being used, but I had the last laugh when I showed it being used with a cutter almost as big as the vice cutting away at a miniscule sized part.

John
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

Location - Crewe, Cheshire

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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #55 on: February 04, 2011, 01:37:13 PM »
Thanks Chaps

John I was very suprized just what clamping pressure you can get with that little vice, its very well made, I want to put it to use making the small bits for the Governor.

I've just got to tidy the studs up and finish turn the piston when the stud locks done its setting thing for 24 hrs, and that will be the cylinder more or less finished, then I'll have to put this job to one side until I drop on a bit of ally jig plate for the base, I've scouted arround the scrappy 3 or 4 times now without luck.

Can any of you Guys help ?:-

I need aluminium plate:- 14 cm * 240 cm * about 15 mm thick it doesn't matter if its got a few holes in it I can soon plug those:- I'll pay postage and cost.

In the mean time I've got one or two other jobs to get on with.

Stew



A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline arnoldb

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #56 on: February 04, 2011, 02:20:15 PM »
Coming along really well Stew  :clap: :thumbup: - Nice job on the valves!
I really like that mini vise as well; definitely a need-to-have on my list, as I'm currently clamping small bits on the edges of my mill vise, which is far from ideal.

Wish I could help with the ally plate - bit far though - besides, I'd also like to get my grubby paws on some  ::)

 :beer:, Arnold

Offline Bogstandard

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #57 on: February 04, 2011, 04:21:46 PM »
Stew,

I hope you realise that you have just asked for a bit of 15mm thick plate, about 6" wide by about 9 feet long.

Just how big is this engine you are building?

 :lol: :lol: :lol:


John
If you don't try it, you will never know if you can do it.

Location - Crewe, Cheshire

Skype - bandit175

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #58 on: February 04, 2011, 05:00:38 PM »
Bugger  :bang: decimal place wrong, thats what comes of mixing cm with mm.

14 cm * 24 cm * about 15 mm

or about 6" * 10" * 1/2" I sould stick to good old imperial.

Thanks for pointing that out John.

Stew



A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline shoey51

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #59 on: February 04, 2011, 05:41:33 PM »
easily done Stew :scratch:





Graham

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #60 on: February 13, 2011, 11:12:05 AM »
Spent last weeks on domestick duties and finishing of a few other jobs.

Made the pistons finished the heads off on the rods griped in a collet to keep everything concentric.



Nice slide fit in the bore.



Got all the studs the same lenght by putting a couple of washers under the nut and filing the studs off flush with the nut, remove a washer and you've got them all the same amount of stud sticking out above the nut.



Made a start on the bearing housing drop a bit of a clanger when I drew it up for some reason I thought the flat bar I had put aside for this was 10mm * 55
no its 10mm * 50, never mind I see this as an oportunity to make the diference up with a bit of bling.

First job cut the three housings off the bar, blue one of them up mark it out, then stick all three in the vice and drill them all through to take two 3mm dowels to keep them lined up whilst the rest of the machining is done.



Rough drill for the bearing and the corner.



Clean the faces up to get them nice and square.





Stick a 10mm drill in the bearing hole and use this with an edge finder to get the mill on the bearing centre line.



having first marked out the holes for the bearing caps

Then drill M4 tapping



Cut the bearing caps out with a slitting saw



Tidy up the step



This is how far I've got I've stamped the caps so they will go back where they came from.



Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline saw

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #61 on: February 13, 2011, 01:15:00 PM »
Nice  :clap:
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Offline madjackghengis

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #62 on: February 13, 2011, 01:34:31 PM »
Hi Stew, the engine is looking good and coming together nicely.  Looking forward to seeing it go together and end up running.  A fine display of craftsmanship. :nrocks: :poke: mad jack

Offline shoey51

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #63 on: February 13, 2011, 03:48:33 PM »
you make it look to easy Stew lovely work mate :clap:

Graham

Offline Dean W

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #64 on: February 13, 2011, 04:09:50 PM »
Coming along very well, Stew. 
Dean W.

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Offline arnoldb

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #65 on: February 14, 2011, 01:46:40 AM »
Nice progress Stew  :thumbup:

"Got all the studs the same lenght by putting a couple of washers under the nut and filing the studs off flush with the nut, remove a washer and you've got them all the same amount of stud sticking out above the nut."
Thanks for that tip!!! - So simple a solution to a problem that's bugged me in the past.

Kind regards, Arnold

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #66 on: February 14, 2011, 02:00:22 AM »


Thanks for the comments and support Chaps

 :wave:


Nice progress Stew  :thumbup:

"Got all the studs the same lenght by putting a couple of washers under the nut and filing the studs off flush with the nut, remove a washer and you've got them all the same amount of stud sticking out above the nut."
Thanks for that tip!!! - So simple a solution to a problem that's bugged me in the past.

Kind regards, Arnold

Arnold

The stud tip came from John Bogstandard, I'm just passing it around  :D

Thanks again

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #67 on: February 15, 2011, 06:57:28 AM »
I was hoping to be further on with this engine but Family commitments keep taking priority, any way got a little more done.

Tapped the housing and the lubricator hole in the bearing cap M4 and opened the clamp holes in the cap out to M4 clearance.
Then assembled the caps to the housing pinching down onto a couple of folds of paper, this is so the caps will tighten down onto the bearing.



Then transfered over the mill and found the edges then indexed to the bearing centre and machined out the bearing location using a 15mm end mill fed straight down, it cut over 15mm thats doesn't matter i'll just make the bearings to fit.



Flipped the job over and drill the base M4 tapping and whilst I was at it drilled a line of 3mm holes so if I wish I can line the housings up on the base plate with dowels not sure if I'll do this or not but may as well drill the holes whilst I'm at it as they are out of the way.



I managed to drop on some jig plate on flebay paid an arm and a leg for it but needs must, so tried the parts out to get some odea of how things are looking.



Not to bad unsure how the seven inch fly wheel will look though.

Stew


A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline shoey51

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #68 on: February 15, 2011, 02:55:14 PM »
 :thumbup: lubly jubbly looking good Stew

Graham

Offline Stilldrillin

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #69 on: February 15, 2011, 03:34:07 PM »
REALLY looking great Stew!  :thumbup:

David D
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Still drilling holes... Sometimes, in the right place!

Still modifying bits of metal... Occasionally, making an improvement!

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #70 on: February 21, 2011, 09:23:33 AM »
Cheers Dave/Graham

Well, I've bin quietly making progress not as fast as I would like but progress nevertheless.

Next part the crank but before I can assemble the crank I need a couple of other parts first:- the eccentric sheaves and the bearings.

I had a bit of a false start with the sheaves it was my intension to have them as plain disc the straps being kept in place by adjoining bits but after I made them I realized there would be too much space between the parts and some of the part wouldn't have a smooth face so they would catch, so decided to make the sheaves edged so that the straps would be retained. I also went about making them a different way to the method I've used in the past I've got more confident with the mill so decided to use the mill to drill the off set hole.

First turn a chunk of bar up to the required diameter and put a small centre drill in it.



The retaining the bar in the chuck transfer it over to the mill centre it under the quill.



Zero the dials and off set the table and drill the hole right through the bar, I drilled it letter U to allow a final clean up with a 3/8" hand reamer.



Then back to the lathe and machine the groove for the straps using a parting tool, then part off to length.



Face to length using the back stop in the chuck.



Then drill and tap M2 one thing a learnt from the first attempt was that the taps are to short to get through the thicker section of the sheaf as drawn, (broke a tap) so for these I tapped through the thinner section.

Next bit the bearing no pic of this as they are simple enough.

The crank shaft is fabricated

So to make the crank shaft webs.

Again I changes my method to take advantage of the accuracy of my mill.

Cut a chunk of plate and milled it to size enough to make all four webs.

Than onto the mill drill four evenly spaced holes down one side again letter U move the table over to give the correct throw and drill down the other side



Bring to size with hand reamer.



Cut off with a slitting saw



Then with a couple of same size bars in the holes, mill thickness to size.



Turn up a 3/8" mandrel with a M8 nut and in the lathe radius the ends.



Thats them done.



Now for the crank shaft journals:- first with the bits roughly assembled check the main journal length cut it off the bar then in the lathe face of centre, and turn and thread both ends.



Cut off and face the crank journals to size.

Now to stick the crank shaft together with high strength loctite, its important not to rush this and to do it in stages letting the loctite cure between stages.

Stage one glue the crank journals to the webs using spacers, the main shaft is there just to keep everything lined up.



Stage two glue one of the crank journals to the main shaft the correct distance from the end. (no Pic)

Stage Three glue the remaining crank journal to the main shaft 90 deg to the first at the correct distance. Using 1*2*3 block:-not forgetting to assemble the sheaves and the bearings in-between first.



Next as I keep my trousers up with a belt and brasses, pin the cranks in place, I just put the pins 1/2 way through that will be enough to stop things slipping, but as an insurance against having to break the crank down to change something one of the pins a drilled all the way through so that I can nock the pin out and take the crank apart to get at the sheaves and bearing.





Cut the bit out of the middle you don't want

And her we have it finished in the housings its turns over nice and free   :D



Stew







« Last Edit: February 21, 2011, 11:44:27 AM by sbwhart »
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline saw

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #71 on: February 21, 2011, 09:52:05 AM »
Nice, :headbang: you do everything so easely  :(
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Offline cfellows

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #72 on: February 21, 2011, 10:53:14 AM »
Nice series, Stew.  The crank assembly turned out real nice.  On the sheaves, there are a couple of different tricks I've used in the past for putting a setscrew in a deep hole.  One trick is to drill the pilot hole all the way through, then, drill a larger hole, the size of your set screw or a little larger part way through.  Then you only have to tap the last little bit for the set screw.  Another trick is to drill the pilot hole all the way through, then thread only the outer portion of the hole.   Put a suitable length of steel or brass pin the diameter of the pilot bit in the hole first, then just tighten the setscrew down against the pin.  These alternate methods are useful if there is no thinner section, as there is in the sheave.

Chuck

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #73 on: February 21, 2011, 10:54:52 AM »
stunning  Stew  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: top job  :thumbup:

Have you decided on the flywheel size ?


Rob

Offline NickG

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Re: Potty Over Crank Wall Engine
« Reply #74 on: February 21, 2011, 10:58:29 AM »
Saw is right, to me doing the crank is a big job - you made it look easy!

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