Thanks Guys not much more to do now before we will be putting it all together.
Had a bit of disaster with the paint the base came out great but the cylinders needed a bit more of a spray, and the re-spray came out all crinkly, I then did what I should have done first and read the instruction on the can, it said :-Respray before 6 hours or after 36 hrs or it will go crinkly
Real Men don't read instructions they just live with the consequences.
So I've had to rub things down and start again.
Finished off the stop valve.
I made the valve gland and the bridge from the same bit of brass.
First turned up the OD and the step fro the gland.
Then over onto the mill using the PCD function drilled the four clamp holes taking them deep enough to get the bridge made.
Part the gland off, then turn the bridge and part off
Then milled off two opposite holes to complete the bridge.
The valve stem is made in steps if you chuck grips reasonably concentric you can do it this way as it will tolerate a little eccentricity between the threads, but it is important that the cone is concentric with the main body.
So first turn and thread M2 on the end and transfer it over to the spin indexer and mill a 2.5mm square for a length of 3mm.
Then back onto the lathe and with just enough sticking out turn and thread M4.
Pull some more stock out and turn the main body 5mm dia, then slew the compound over and turn the cone until it drops off the bar, the cone will be perfectly concentric to the body.
The bridge posts are one of those small jobs that you have to machine in the correct sequence or you end up with little to grip on.
So first job mill a hex part way along the bar, I used both ends of the bar, her it is with one end just with the hex and the other with the M2.5 thread and plain bit turned on the other end.
Her are the part finished pair, it was a simple job the grip on the plain bit and turn and thread M2.5 taking care to get the length between the threads the same on the pair.
Now for the hand wheel, I've shown this a few times so I'll just show a few shots.
Turn up the wheel
Transfer over to the RT still in the chuck, centre the RT under the mill spindle and using a combination of the DRO PCD function and movement from the RT generate the wheel.
And her we have the completed valve on the steam chest cover with the butterfly valve.
I've had it connected to the air and it shut off nicely with no leaks, it gives some controll reduceing the angle of the cone would have given a bit more but I've enough for my purposes.
Stew
