This looks like you are coming right down to the last little bits... Question and please forgive my ignorance since I'm not an engine guy... Are the basic differences between the different spark plugs defined by the following three items...? The dielectric resistance, the operating voltage to strike a spark and the sustained current?
As a life long engine mech, the primary differences in plugs are thread size, the length of heat path from center electrode to cooling, and the size of the plug its self. Resistor plugs are the common thing because they don't cause radio interferance with modern electronics, so their resistance is pretty common, and the plug size has gotten smaller because engines are so much smaller in weedeater applications, but other than that, plugs are pretty much the same, with the ignition units making most of the difference. Almost any form of ignition will fire across a .020 in gap, and with model engines, this means we can use very small coils and low voltages, if we wish to. I just pulled a champion plug from a weedeater engine which is ten mm thread, the smallest plug I've ever seen, and I believe it is the same as the cm-6, although I haven't seen on of those except in pictures. In general, the higher the number, compared to other plugs of same manufacture, the longer the heat path, and the hotter the plug runs. In an engine which is run continuously and for long periods, this is critical, as a too hot plug can cause a hole in the piston. For model engines, this is not normally even an issue at all, and hot plugs don't foul as easily. If you find your plugs getting fouled from messing around with timing, mixture and oil, the easiest way to "clean" it, so it will reliably fire is to hold it in a vise on the wire end, and aim a torch flame down between the center electrode and the casing with the threads, trying to get the blue tip of the flame on the center electrode. Any oil down deep with show up as a pale blue flame around the opposite side of the ground electrode, as opposed to the reddish spread flame of the torch impinging on the steel, giving it the reddish hue, and aiming between the center electrode and ground from both sides, hits the hardest part to get up to temperature, and once there is no more light of "phantom" blue flame on the opposite side from both sides, you will fine pristine ceramic on the center electrode when it is cooled off.
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Cheers, Jack