Shop re-model

[marfaguy]

The Director of Standards, Practices and Finance, a.k.a my wife,
has APPROVED the funding for the proposed shop improvements
first presented on or about Jan 25th 2011. Much rejoicing was heard
after the news was announced. When asked about the good news the
main recipient (me) only had this to say… "I'm heading up to Pugetropolis
and carting off Da_Kengineer_Meister's floor. ... Do you think he'll notice?"

 Seriously though, it's going to be really nice to insulate, sheetrock
 and air condition/heat the shop.

 Kenneth, if/when you see this any thoughts, tips and cost considerations
on your epoxy floor would be greatly appreciated.

[Brass_Machine]

Oh-Yeah, punishment for being caught stealing the floor is mandatory service w/ball & chain making robot parts.     

Ummm. That doesn't sound like a punishment. Sound like fun actually.... 

Eric

[Hobby-Machinist]

Epoxy is nice, but a lot of work.
What about putting down those interlocking, stain resistant floor tiles, the ones that they use in garages that are supposed to have some give and be good for your feet when you're standing?  They just fit into one another and provide a stain resistant, hard surface. No prep to speak of and if they break, you replace them.

Nelson

[DeereGuy]

Your going to really appreciate all of this when your done. 

Mine is much nicer to work in now and I spend a lot of time in it anyway. 

[marfaguy]

Looks like I'm going to forgo the epoxy floor idea. Once I realized the shop
floor would be nicer than the parquet tile floor in the house I was pretty sure
SWMBO wouldn't be too happy. I'll still need to get most if not all of everything out
of the shop so it can get insulated, some additional wiring run and while I'm at it
some compressed air lines put in. There's enough in the budget to add a small shed
type attached room to the outside to house a compressor and dust control system.

[marfaguy]

The shop remodel has kicked off. After cleaning out most of 16 years of krep we were able to get the wiring done. No pictures of that. I'm sure everybody has seen wiring run through studs and into boxes. Next up was getting the service (100 amp) run from the house to the shop and the airline from the shop back to car port. I thought I had taken pictures of the conduit being laid in the trench but apparently not.
 Anyway, the forms got put in on Wednesday






 and the  concrete was poured on Thursday.




As you can see we're also putting in a driveway from the street to the shop.

If you're in the North Austin/Round Rock area and need some concrete work done let me know, I've got just the guys.

There's going to be a shed type bump out added to outside of the shop to house the air compressor and a dust collection system.


The plan is to frame this out, dry it in, roof it and then store most of the stuff still in the shop so it can easily be insulated and sheetrocked without too much stuff in the way.

This slab

will eventually have an approx. 10'x10' shed for the lawn tractor/trailer and tiller. Should also be enough room to hold wood and metal materials so I don't have to house them in the shop. The slab is about 24'x24' so I'll also have enough room to do outside stuff like casting (if I ever get to that point).

It's coming along. Hope to have it all done sometime this Summer or in the Fall.

-Charles

[marfaguy]

Further work on the shop remodel…
Got the insulation and sheetrock done. Well we had the insulation and sheetrock done.
We're doing the tape/float and painting. Got the lights and air conditioning in.


Working on the rest of the tape/float (I can hum the tune and almost keep time but
as you can see the results are so-so).


The Micro Mark mill in the foreground on it's temporary roll around stand.


We'll start painting from this end tomorrow and working out from the corner.


Sams Warehouse has some steel framed 48"x84"x18"(deep) (six shelves per unit)
steel shelving units for 58.00. We got three. Those will go in as soon as the paints dry.

[andyf]

Compared to my working area, that's HUGE! The mill looks lost in there.

Tip: before painting, while you can still see where the studs (uprights) are behind the plasterboard (sheetrock), bang a small nail in at the top and bottom of each one, with the head just proud of the surface. Once painted, you probably won't be able to see the nailheads, but you will be able to feel them.

Then, if you want a secure fixing for a hook, shelf or wall-hung cupboard, you can easily find where to put the screws.

Andy

[John Stevenson]

No rebar or hardcore on that driveway ?

[marfaguy]

No rebar or hardcore on that driveway ?

4"x4" wire mesh on the driveway. Not sure what hardcore is. That's the way they do most driveways/sidewalks around here.
Seems to work pretty well.

[John Stevenson]

Normal way over here is dig out and place 12" of compacted crushed stone [ hardcore] followed by 6" or concrete with rebar or mesh.
I didn't see the mesh in your pictures hence the post.

John S.

[Hobby-Machinist]

Compared to my working area, that's HUGE! The mill looks lost in there.

Tip: before painting, while you can still see where the studs (uprights) are behind the plasterboard (sheetrock), bang a small nail in at the top and bottom of each one, with the head just proud of the surface. Once painted, you probably won't be able to see the nailheads, but you will be able to feel them.

Then, if you want a secure fixing for a hook, shelf or wall-hung cupboard, you can easily find where to put the screws.

Andy

Great tip, Andy- replaces using a studfinder, which works sometimes, other times not so well.



Nelson