Were off
Probably way way to many photos and stuff thats all been seen before
any way here is how i go about doing stuff
First off started with the base ,, page one and as good a place to start as any were ,, a length of 2"x 3/4" ally bar was machined to 3 3/4" long , the plans call for it to be profiled to form two up stands ,, i deviated slightly from the design just so i could do it in one set up .
I am using a 1/4" radius cutter for the job in the HZ mill ,, working from one edge as a datum , and using the dials for position .
finding the edge using a feeler gauge
Then the first section was machined
then i moved across machining the other areas , leaving the two up stands
After machining with the radius cutter there was left a raized section in the middle , this was then machined flat
The base just needs marking out and drilled for the fixings
Next the cylinder body ,, page three ,,, this calls for a block of ally to be machine up nice and square to start with .
The sawn block was placed in the machine vice and set up square using a DTI on the vertical side so that the upper face will be machined square to it .
Now that i have that face flat and square the block was reposition with that face down on the vice , i use my hight gauge all over the shop for measuring ,not just marking out .
Setting the gauge to zero on the bottom of the vice , using that as a datum , then adjusting it to read 57.91mm the hight the block needs to be machined to , then zero it in that position .
A light skim was then taken off the block and the block measured .
2.34mm to come off
With the cylinder block milled to size ,its time to move to the lathe , the centre for the bore was marked out and lightly centre punched , now the block is set up in the four jaw chuck ,using some offcuts of ally so that the jaws dont mark the block ,, i do this flat on the bench so that i am not fiddling about trying to hold everything in place , using the Mark 1 eyeball to get things in the approximate position .
Then just fit the chuck to the lathe , using a spring loaded centre in the centre punch mark the job is then clocked in .
Next ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ( i am going on a tad ) ,,,,,,,,, drilled and bored to size .
On the last few cuts the tool is ran through at the same setting to remove any tapper in the bore ,, i use inside calliper or bore gauges to measure the bore at each end , both need a bit of practice to get the feel of ,, but well worth doing ,,, much better than using those pointy things on verniers .
With the bore sorted next comes an under cut section to allow water around the cylinder , i am using a tool i made for another project , this is a length of 1/4" HSS heated up and bent , then the cutting edges were ground .
The tool was set square to the job using the back face of the block .
Using the lathe dials the position of the under cut was locate and machined , and also the recess for the cylinder liner .
Next using a 6mm button tool the front face was machined , a smaller radius would be better , but the 3mm radius the tool will leave matches a milling cutter i will use on the rest of the job .
Thats it for now
Rob
