The things you do for £5 17s and 9d.

[John Stevenson]

So this morning on my second cup of coffee and third scratch when I get a phone call

"I'm going to send you something interesting, you will like it "

Roughly translated into repair speak " I sending a pile of shït down and want it fixing "
Not far wrong because before the truck got here got another phone call to say these bit's are off a big sewerage pump and they are literally in the shït. 

So this outrigger bearing assembly comes, forgot to get a picture of it as received but on the top of the casting is a large squarish cast bearing housing that's totalled, only about a third of it left.

Lob it on the face plate, machine the damaged bit off and bore thru 92mm to take a top hatted sleeve, then hunt round for a foot long piece of 2-1/4" diameter and drill and bore this out to clear the shaft and to fit the casting and the two new bearings.



New 50mm diameter shaft, bearing top hat and two new collars makes up the list of parts.



Had to clean the lathe down three times and sweep up 4 times.

Press the sleeve in, followed by two new bearings and the rest is up to the site crew.
This was the state of play at 7:00pm tonight.



Hardest £5 17s and 9d I have earnt this week.

John S.

[Rob.Wilson]

  nicely worded John 


not a bad job too 


Rob 

[doubleboost]

Propper job

[andyf]

Nice repair, but in view of what it's been doing, how could you put it down on your nice clean floor? The magnets will be no help now; try a clean pair of underpants.

Andy

[AdeV]

Lob it on the face plate

Q: How do you centre things on the faceplate?  Especially something like a broken casting which I don't suppose had a handy place to take readings from?

[John Stevenson]

It was a nice job to bolt on as it has 4 holes in the bottom.
I wish I had taken a picture of the casting as received as the top part I faced off was in a right mess but there was a relief diameter just below where the bearing fitted that wasn't damaged.

I eye balled this central and then took the damaged part off, this left me with the register more accessible and then clocked this up.

Two reasons, one as I say more accessible and chances are if I had clocked it true to start with because of the interrupted cut it probably would have knocked it out again, requiring it to be centralised again.

With hindsight I could have saved some time whipping the top part off with the big angle grinder, something to remember for next time.

I have re-sleeved these before but this is the first time I have had one in this state.

John S.

[AdeV]

When centering (accurately), are you just tapping it with a soft hammer until it's right, then doing the final tighten on the bolts, or is there a less agricultural method? I ask because when I set up that motorbike yoke, i spent ages & ages tapping it with a hammer to get it to run true- just wondering if there was a smarter way.

[malcolmt]

Propper job

I thought Propper Jobbie's   

Nicely done John

[madjackghengis]

That looks like a right proper job done, and done well.  AdeV., I've worked on Harleys and other bikes for forty years, clamping and tapping has always been the way I ended up centering such things.  I've got a frame now that was bent with a major crash, about four inches off to the right, and with the head set angled about ten degrees to the right from a car essentially striking the bike right in the engine on the right side.  I'll be bolting and clamping it down to a large piece of "H" beam, 12 by 12 and about six feet long, heating every bend up with torches, and prying, twisting, and hammering it back to its original alignment, and hopefully it won't take a bigger hammer than my eight pound sledge, since that's the biggest one I've got.  I've got a feeling I'm going to work harder for the money on this frame than you did on the bearing support repair.    Cheers, Mad Jack

[dsquire]

Mad Jack

Use a hydraulic jack and chains to push or pull it into place. It's a lot easier than the big hammer. 

Cheers 

Don