Author Topic: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.  (Read 19614 times)

Offline raynerd

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Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« on: June 07, 2011, 06:48:40 PM »
Hi chaps, a few questions if anyone can help -  my next project which I`m planning for in detail at present, requires me to pin a wheel with 1/32" silver steel. There are 60 pins in total and I need to consider how to cut them all. This will be a tedious job but more importantly I need to have them nicely cut to a uniform length and a shafered end. `m considering punching the wire lengths from the rod using a home made punch that I`ve seen in a picture which is how someone else did it. I believe it works by have two halfs, the bottom sections is a cylinder with a centre bore the diameter of the desired pin length. This piece is cross drilled and the wire inserted to span the length cross section of the bore. The top section is obviously the punch which is a diameter to match the bore and keep the punch straight knocking out the required pin length.

1. It looks a good idea but I`ve never made this sort of punch and I`m unsure what shape the cutting end should be - anyone any advice?
   

The other option is to use a dremel and some sort of guide and stop to push the wire through and cut the pins using a dremel. I`m not sure if this would work and although it sounds good, can`t think how it would be setup.

2. Any suggestions as to how you chaps would set about cutting 60 pins of I think about 1/4" ?


My next question is regarding pinning the wheel. The pins are 1/32 inch silver steel wire. I`ve seen someone doing the same project explain that they made a homemade 0.022 spotting drill, spade type and followed by drilling with a 0.029 twist drill.

3.I`m not clear what a spade type spotting drill is. I presume a standard spotting drill will be too big so it will be necessary to make one? 
4. I also can`t find a source of the 0.029" drill required to provide a good pressure fit with the 1/32" (0.031") pins. 

If anyone can give me a hand with any of these questions I`d be grateful!

Chris

Offline andyf

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2011, 07:45:29 PM »
Hi Chris,

Just a couple of thoughts:

Leaving aside the tedium of cutting the 60 pins for the moment, and moving on rapidly to the 0.029" drill bit, 0.75mm drill bits are readily available - just Google the red bit. 0.75mm = 0.0295", so there would be slightly less chance of the pins bending as you press them home.  Might be worth getting one for a trial with some scrap.

As for the pins, perhaps you could cut them slightly long, press them in, then trim them to exact length on your grinder with a simple jig on which the wheel revolves. That would also take care of any problems arising from tiny  variations in the depth of the holes.

Andy
Sale, Cheshire
I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short

Offline DaveH

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2011, 08:00:30 PM »
Another way to press the pins in is make a small jig. Small round piece of steel drill a 1/32" hole in the centre to a depth equal to the amount you wish the pins to stick out. Press each one in with the jig, it will also help in stopping the pins bending.

 :beer:
DaveH
(Ex Leicester, Thurmaston, Ashby De La Zouch.)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2011, 12:41:03 AM »
Chris

I've found by experience that small drills tend to cut dead size, I'd drill the holes for the pins with 1/32 drill and use 1/32 silver steel for the pins they will fit snug in the holes a spot of supper glue will secure them for good.

To cut the pins to length you can make a little fixture up using a dremel:- Marv has posted a nice design on her and HMEN.

Ask yourself the ? why 1/32, what would 1/16 pins look like if the answer is they will look ok, you can buy 1/16 soft iron or brass rivets.

Stew
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Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #4 on: June 08, 2011, 01:48:08 AM »
If I got you you right: You are considering shearing round rod to size? Any shear or punch will deform end of the pin. I have a bench shear that has a round hole. The blades are pretty tough and fitting. Same thing when you have a look on mass produces parts.

You are using silver steel, probably for finished diameter? I would check first if there would be any mass produced part that would be close - like needle bearing pins?

Then again 60 pieces is not that hard to make if you come up with a production method.

Then I would have a look on my tooling to see what I could do.

I would do them following way:

The big idea: Cut them a very little long on the lathe and then file ends to dimenssion (and mainly to remove the pip) on large batches.

You need a stop that will not touch the rod when you part off and you want to make camfer and cutting as fast as possible.
* Clean the lathe, these would become soon an inntegral part of your swarf collection....
* Clean the tray under the lathe bed to collect the parts, you will be able to salvage most right in situ.
* you have to consider lathe rpm and the free end of the long rod (if you are using  long pieces!) from the tail end of the chuck, you don't want free end whipping around at 3000 rpm! I have used a plug with fitting hole at the end of the head stock spindle and a pipe clammpped on a stay. I leave a little gap here and I advance the material from the rear end of the spindle, chuck ends has the tools and after sixty tries your hands would look a rosegarden botanists.
* fit a stop to tailstock, I probably would use a drill arbor, centre hole is plus. Tighten it to allow space near chuck.
* Then I would place a piece of old feeler gauge or shimstock betreen this silver rod (clean end) and tail stock stop AND advance the material until it meets the shim. Tighten the chuck,  pul out the shim and there you have clearance to part off!
* If you have a back tool holder for parting of blade and front toll holder for a camfer insert, it's a matter of setting a stop to set camfering depth. You need to lock the cross slide reliably.

Now camfering and cutting comes on one cycle of cross side, If the cutting tools can be adjusted close to each others, this movement comes short and pretty fast.

Biggest time is spent on chuckking/unchukking the material. This might not work so fast if you have short pieces of rod and different lathe.

Revolver lathe and a proper collet chuck would have turned these parts faster that it took me to write this.....



Finishing ends: my first instinct is to make and use simple jig - many small parts, fiddly etc:
* Take a 1/4" (thickness to size the lenght of the pins) gauge plate or such, big enough to clamp it down on table and pepper it with close fitting holes, something like least 10!.
* Attach a tape over the holes on the jig (reason comes apparent soon:). Place jig taped side down over a flat, clean surface and insrt bach of pins into them. This is fiddly. You may want to put them "same side up", othervice camfering is compromized.
* File the pin ends even, leave them somewhat over the surface Wach the camfer!
* Now clean the lot with a soft brush These pins being small I would not risk of dropping them when turning the jig over!
* Turn the jig and chase those dropped pins
* I you are tidy and lucy, you should have most of the pins in place...Now, if you were smart as well, you should be able pull out the tape out without a drama.
* Then file at your's hearts contest until everything is fairly flush. Gauge plate should size them nicely
* Bristle time. Place a cup by the edge of the table SLIDE the jig out of table....just in case. This all depends....
Repeat few times....

How does it sounds?

Pekka
* typozzz!! looks like my processor was not in gear, but printter kept pushing...
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 02:50:56 AM by PekkaNF »

Offline AdeV

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #5 on: June 08, 2011, 07:24:40 AM »
Beg, buy, borrow or steal a small chop saw; or one of those angle grinder stands that Lidl sold recently. Mark up your silver steel with each piece slightly over-long (to account for the width of the cutting disk, plus any excess you might want to leave stuck out after the pins are pressed home). Now simply use the chopsaw/grinder to cut each pin. Being only 1/32" dia, you shouldn't need to clamp it in place each time, just use finger pressure to hold the stock in place as you take off a pin. They shouldn't fly too far out of the saw, and you'll have all 60 cut before you know it. Make about 80, though, to cover the inevitable "oops, I dropped it" and/or "oops, the grinder threw it" losses.

I'm assuming when you said "shafered end" you meant "chamfered"? i.e. knocking the corners off one end to make it go in the hole easier? Personally, I'd run each one along some coarse emery cloth before I used it, with a slight rotating motion as if I were making a pointy stick. You could also use a bench grinder to the same effect, just watch you don't take too much off. Oh, and wear safety goggles - you can be sure the grinder will grab at least one & throw it at your face...

As for drill bits - I couldn't find a 0.5mm spotting drill, which I guess is why they suggest making one. A "spade type" looks a bit like a masonry drill, without the long flutes.
Cheers!
Ade.
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Location: Wallasey, Merseyside. A long way from anywhere.
Occasionally: Zhengzhou, China. An even longer way from anywhere...

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #6 on: June 08, 2011, 08:20:00 AM »
I do appreciate every response given to me - I`ve spent the last hour reading them in detail. A few replies to your suggestions and more advice or thoughts would be great. Please remember that I`m only replying based on what I have read not the practical experience of doing it!  

AndyF - the method of tidying up the back is exactly how John Wilding describes in his plans. However, the thickness of the wheel is uniform and therefore if the pins could be accurately cut, using a back plate and pushing the pins in (with a jig) so they perfectly hit the same spot, I believe there is no need to clean up the back so I was trying to avoid this method. Gadgetbuilder on his website used a method where the pins are pushed through to hit a backstop and managed to have no need in cleaning up the back. This also meant is pins were a neat uniform length. I`m not saying this method isn`t valid, just reading gadgetbuilders method, I think it could be done better this way.   However, I never even thought metric!! 0.75mm drill would be easily to find and be quite adiquate.

Stew - yes 1/32" is necessary because of the way the pins fall and catch on the gated detent. I expect that the plans could be written for 1/16" wire but I believe the mechanism of the inpulse pawl would need modifying to suit and it just isn`t worth it. I`ve managed to get some 1/32" silver steel from College Engineering supplies so I`m ok in this respect. You have much much more practical experience than me and so I take your word about the smaller drill cutting true. The only thing I would say is that there is at times very large pressures on the pins as it is a pawl hook on the pin wheel (pins) that bears the load of the 2" dia x 4" length steel weight!! for the impulse. I have to admit that both Wilding and Gadgetbuilder both have drilled under size and pressure fit pins in place. For the price of a small drill, it will be worth testing the 1/32" drill and a 0.0295 (.75mm) and seeing which holds best. If they can be pressure fit then I expect that may be the best way to go just purely because of the weight bearings on them. I know normally on a standard pin wheel there is likely only a mechanism to catch the pins, on this clock, there is weights bearing on the pins.   Your thoughts would be much appreciated after reading this.... do you think 1/32" drill and locktite would still do the job OK?    Also, do you have a link or a search word to find Marvs post - I can`t find any link??

PekkaN - can you really part off 1/32" steel? I expect I would end up bending the steel rather than cutting. Although I have an ER32 chuck ready to fit to the lathe it isn`t useable yet and despite that, is the smallest ER32 collet not 1.5mm ? I think my lathe wouldn`t be capable of this work. I think the idea you suggest for cleaning the ends up is a good one but maybe a bit OTT? I believe the only reason for the chamfer is to allow them to push into the undersize hole.

AdeV - yes, I`ve got a large disk chop saw but I expect too large for this job which is why I suggested a dremel. I think you make the best point about using a simple grinder to put a slight chamfer on the end.

DaveH - yes I was going to use a jig to push the pins in. I thought about small silver steel bar with a 1/32" hole half the length of the pin. This is not my idea, but then Gadgetbuilder used a magnet stuck on the side of the steel bar which meant that when the pin was placed into the hole, it stayed there. This was all done on a pillar drill and the wheel was on the bench with a steel block under it as a back plate. The pin was then forced down into a wheel hole and pinned. I just hope my holes will work out suitable enough to press fit the pins in otherwise it may be worth following Stews advice and drill the hole to size with a spot of loctite.


Thanks again...any more opinions would be helpful.  I`m still none the wiser about this spotting drill. Would you spot drill or just drill direct with the small drill. I expect it will need some sort of spotting or it`ll wander.

Chris

 
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 08:21:36 AM by craynerd »

Offline sbwhart

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A little bit of clearance never got in the road
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Offline HS93

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2011, 10:23:54 AM »
it's a bad link i'm afraid Stew.  have you thought of a small diamond cuting wheel 25mm , I have Just got a proxon one from my local Axminster store in Warington.

peter
I am usless at metalwork, Oh and cannot spell either . failure

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #9 on: June 08, 2011, 03:14:14 PM »
PekkaN - can you really part off 1/32" steel? I expect I would end up bending the steel rather than cutting. Although I have an ER32 chuck ready to fit to the lathe it isn`t useable yet and despite that, is the smallest ER32 collet not 1.5mm ? I think my lathe wouldn`t be capable of this work. I think the idea you suggest for cleaning the ends up is a good one but maybe a bit OTT? I believe the only reason for the chamfer is to allow them to push into the undersize hole.
Chris

You are asking a lot and I haven't got that far. I wonder what clock makers would do?

However, I have cut under 2 mm rather routinely on different materials and that's easy. But it all works with part dimenssion. Harder to chuck, closer you need the adjust tool height (many times I'll notice that my centre pip is larger than work you are trying to part off) and you need to get really close to the chuck/collet or you need a steady. Here consideration starts to be: do you push the blade to the work or do you hold blade stationary and push rod to the work with a support. V-grove or something like this (without the blade):
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Small-Diameter-Turning-Tool.html

 I intended to try out 0,75 mm but I don't have anything of silver steel kind of material. After thinking over I'm not that confident that lathe is way to go.

I had some 1.56 mm dia tig welding rod, I believe it's stainless because that what is used at the work! It's surpricingly britle, but materials feel different on smaller dimenssions. It flatens a little if I use piano wire cutters to it. I admitt that is whole different ballgame to do half that diameter. I had to resort loupe to adjust parting off blade to correct height. And that is critical here. I cut clean on the first try - unfortunaterly the pin sheared at the chuck!

After getting centre height closer, It cut without drama. No pip on chuck side, huge one on severed part.

I used a MT1 arbor to catch parted off pin.

I used 0,7 mm wide blade, not the sharpest one and this lathe is really light weight piece of paper weight. On last picture there is 0.5 mm wide blade. There is no way that lot wider than that blade will do nice work.

PM me if you want to have a go. I'll send you two blades to toy with, if you break them, you'll sharpen them and feel the pain. I don't have a foggies idea where to buy them.

Camfering this small parts was long time a go a quick visit on corrosive material and then long ride on ....what is this rotating canister with abrassive and filler inside? Found it: Tumbler!

I hope you'll find better method.

You need some clearance with the glue, deformed end on that side is probably just good. There are very many different types of stud locks (glues). Look something for a small clearance and low viscosity.

Pekka
* learning English
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 03:53:40 PM by PekkaNF »

Offline DaveH

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #10 on: June 08, 2011, 04:38:00 PM »
Chris,

I have cut 1/16" stainless on my sherline. Basically it's a deep score, then I bend it to and fro until it breaks.
I clean the ends on a small grinding wheel (Dremell).

But a 1/16'' is not 1/32nd. whether it would work with 1/32nd I have my doubts.

I would just cut them and clean the ends up.

Well thats my 2p's worth.

DaveH
(Ex Leicester, Thurmaston, Ashby De La Zouch.)

Offline HS93

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #11 on: June 08, 2011, 04:51:06 PM »
these are the diamond wheels i posted about , I have cut 1/8 silver steel and 4mm and 5mm stainles steel with then nice very clean cut and the shaft stays stright.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-shopproxxon_pg1/#page=12

Peter
I am usless at metalwork, Oh and cannot spell either . failure

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #12 on: June 08, 2011, 05:00:23 PM »
Pete, thanks for the link but I hit a search page... I can`t see a 25mm one. I can only see two diamond disks, one has cooling holes in and the other is solid and available in 20mm dia or 38mm.

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #13 on: June 08, 2011, 05:02:46 PM »
Pekka, I really appreciate your time taken and the photos posted but I know my limits and I really think that I`d bend the rod. I have struggle parting in general and I think something so small I`d really struggle with, besides, I`ve no cutting tool that would be suitable - I expect a dremel like Pete is saying is likely to be my first port of call.


Offline HS93

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #15 on: June 08, 2011, 05:10:45 PM »
thats the one, the 25mm one was from another source. I think they may have been ARC they are a lot better priced, and worked well 22mm .

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Diamond-Tools/Diamond-Discs-Burrs-Saw-Blades

peter
« Last Edit: June 08, 2011, 05:20:14 PM by HS93 »
I am usless at metalwork, Oh and cannot spell either . failure

Offline 75Plus

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #16 on: June 08, 2011, 05:53:20 PM »
Chris,

This is how I have made uniform length bits of pinion wire in the past. I took a block of mild steel and drilled one or more holes to the depth required for the length I wanted. The holes are just enough over-sized for the bits to fall free when the block was inverted. After drilling the holes I then case hardened the surface using "Kasenit" which is a popular case hardening material on this side of the pond. Once hardened a file will not cut the block but will cut the wire bits. File them until the file stops cutting and you have uniform lengths.

Joe

Offline modeldozer

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2011, 06:31:20 PM »
Just a sugestion. Make something simmilar to what I have done and it might be possible to cut them while held in the lathe (Toolpost chop saw). You could also add a stop to the support to control the lenth.  I would also sugest some tempory shielding to catch the pieces as they come off and DEFENETIFLY personal safety gear, ask how I know....
Might even be used with a small grindwheel to do the chamfers.






P.S. Have only used it on brass and piano wire for my modeltruck axles.

Abraham

Offline HS93

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2011, 06:37:43 PM »
how about some pictures of your model trucks ?

a fellow model maker of boats and cars

Peter
I am usless at metalwork, Oh and cannot spell either . failure

Offline modeldozer

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2011, 06:47:08 PM »
Hi peter,

Not to hijack the thread, go to my website, there are some buildlogs on there.  As soon as my lathe saga is over I will hopefully be able to carry on with the latest (2 years in the making) one and will do a log on here.

Abraham

Offline Bernd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #20 on: June 08, 2011, 06:58:55 PM »
it's a bad link i'm afraid Stew. peter

Worked for me.

Bernd
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Offline HS93

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #21 on: June 08, 2011, 08:02:58 PM »
yes it's working NOW.

Peter
I am usless at metalwork, Oh and cannot spell either . failure

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #22 on: June 09, 2011, 08:46:02 AM »
Right, thanks for all your suggestions. As you can imagine everyone has ideas and so I`m going to use a combination of what has been suggested. I`ll concern myself with the drilling and fitting later, but for now to cut 60 pieces of music wire my intention is to use the diamond tool on a dremel as Peter has recommended. I`ll then be using a holder for the dremel to fix it to my lathe cross slide as a few of you have mentioned. I`ll then make an extremely simple jig to cut to length by drilling a steel bar just to the length of what I`m after and just slightly over size. I`ll then push my wire into the hole in the bar and use the dremel mounted on the cross slide to cut to size by having the cutting disk right at the face of the wire holding bar jig. I can hold the back end of the wire or when too small, hold it in the chuck in the tail stock. Nothing will actually be turning in the lathe chuck, the lathe is just being used to safely hold and manipulate the dremel and cutting jig (bar with hole!)

How does that sound?   Worth a try ... safe enough?

Chris

 

Offline DaveH

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #23 on: June 09, 2011, 08:51:18 AM »
Chris,

Perfect :thumbup:

 :beer:

DaveH
(Ex Leicester, Thurmaston, Ashby De La Zouch.)

Offline andyf

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #24 on: June 09, 2011, 12:22:03 PM »
Sounds ideal.

The parts will be pretty short; I think you said about 1/4". How are you going to hold them to deal with the chamfers?

Andy
Sale, Cheshire
I've cut the end off it twice, but it's still too short

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #25 on: June 09, 2011, 12:40:00 PM »
On question:
Are these diamond wheels diamond and not something else?

I hear often that diamond can't be used for steel:
http://www.krueckemeyer.de/english/products/abrasives/diamondcbn.htm

But then again one tool grinder said that he cut chip breaker (small grove) to HSS blanks "with diamond". Does cutting speed and cooling has a role here?

I use diamond lap to charppen w¤¤d working tools, but I'm pretty confident I don't overheat it.

So what is the story?

Pekka

Rob.Wilson

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #26 on: June 09, 2011, 03:35:46 PM »
Hi Chris

Could you not just buy some 1/32 x 1/4 dowel pins  :med:     http://www.teng.co.uk/imp-hardened-steel-dowel-pins_4186_pl.asp

Rob
« Last Edit: June 09, 2011, 03:37:51 PM by Rob.Wilson »

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #27 on: June 09, 2011, 04:21:18 PM »
 :poke: :bang: :poke: :bang: :poke: :bang: :poke: :bang: :poke:

Could have told me that earlier  :poke: :poke:

LOL  :lol:  Nice one mate! That 100% solves that issue!!     :bow: :bow: :bow:

Chris

Rob.Wilson

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #28 on: June 09, 2011, 04:28:54 PM »
 :)   :lol: :lol: :lol:


Rob

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #29 on: June 09, 2011, 05:22:15 PM »
200 ordered  :)   Will they be square ended or being dowels I guess the ends will already be slightly tapered  :ddb:

Rob.Wilson

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #30 on: June 09, 2011, 05:30:00 PM »
Hi Chris

They will probably have a slight chamfer on the ends ,,,, :thumbup:


Any way what you making  :poke: :poke: :poke:   ,,,,,,,,,musical box ?

Rob

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #31 on: June 10, 2011, 06:52:43 AM »
 :( :( :(

Money was refunded this morning with a phone call telling me that all lengths of the 1/32" are discontinued :(

Looks like I`m back onto cutting them from 1/32" silver steel. Hopefully my order from College Engineering Supplies will be here this weekend, I`ve been waiting nearly a week now.

Rob - I`m back onto my very first original project I ever picked in 2004 when I purchased a Unimat 3 at university. (stupidly with no experience back then) .  I`m building Dr Woodwards Gearless Clock - designed and build write up by Wilding:



I`ll start my project log soon with more details. I`m pretty crystal clear with how it all runs now, just need to figure out the maintaining works but I think that`ll become more obvious once the motion works/main train is together.


Anyway, back on topic. ...  :( :( about the dowel pins, what a cracking buy they would have been. Absolutely spot on!! I`m basically trying to make them from silver steel.
Chris

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #32 on: June 10, 2011, 07:01:58 AM »
Smallest I can find from other suppliers is 1/16   ... looks like that idea is now washed away, nay mind!

Offline 75Plus

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #33 on: June 10, 2011, 09:32:24 AM »
Chris,

Is this the escapement you are building?

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/horology/bpinwhl.html

Joe

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #34 on: July 18, 2011, 07:08:28 AM »
Hi Joe, sorry, never replied. By now you have probably seen my Dr Woodwards Gearless clock thread, so no, your escapement shows a pin wheel escapement. Mine is an escapement using a pin wheel but using a gated detent, so no really as shown in the image.

Regarding digging this thread back up to the top, I`ve had a horrific weekend trying to cut these pins! You don`t appreciate how thin 1/32" until you see the steel wire. I setup my dremel which cut the steel OK, but I couldn`t get the disk to cut near enough to any sort of jig I was holding the wire in. The only method that worked involved me chucking the wire up to lightly file the taper and then chucking the wire back up, setting the jig to put the wire to the right length, cutting the pin with the dremel and then re-chucking the wire to file the sharp edge made by the dremel. It took me nearly 4-8 minutes a pin. Now I know I need more patience, but that was taking the biscuit to do all 60 pins!  I tried parting with a stop held in the tailstock for length and the cut was so messy that even right up to the chuck I was bending the wire a little. I could have used a split collet but it wasn`t worth wasting more time in another method I thought wasn`t going to work.

Anyway, I spent last night building a pin punch as suggested on the Gadget Builder website.... I hope that works OK !! I didn`t get chance to try it before bed!! 

Offline PekkaNF

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #35 on: July 18, 2011, 03:47:20 PM »
You probably have up-hill all the way until you'll find the right process. This is seriously small dimenssion and all comes very critical with it. Chucks will not nip this small material very close to nose, you would need a very small parting off blade, very near to centre line and very sharp...I used loupe to cut few and you have way more than 60 pcs!

What material you settled with and how does it cuts? Does it machines easy, work hardening, soft, hard? How does that biscuit crumble?

With a little bit of luck you might have a material that could be soft enough to shear, but not like scissor or pliers. More like two hardened blades with minimal clearance and a close fitting, but not tight hole on right trough both of them. Idea being of shearing, but not flattening.

I'm sure you will crack it one way or another.

Pekka

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #36 on: July 18, 2011, 07:40:52 PM »
Disregard please.


Joe

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #37 on: July 18, 2011, 10:30:39 PM »
...did I say something wrong?  disregard what?  :scratch:

For those interested, I completed this pin wheel here: http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=5466.msg60623#new  page 4 (ish)

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #38 on: July 19, 2011, 09:37:19 AM »
Disregard my reply. I made a comment then found that you had solved the problem and had completed the pin wheel. I tried to delete my comment but you can't do that so I just modified it to "Disregard" Sorry for the confusion. :bow: :bow:

Offline raynerd

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Re: Pressure fitting 1/32" wire to make a pin wheel.
« Reply #39 on: July 19, 2011, 02:03:50 PM »
 :beer: I see!!  Thanks for taking interest.