Craynerd builds Wilding's - Woodward's Gearless Clock

[raynerd]

Rob we posted at the same time...very wierd considering the thread hasn`t been updated for about 20 days!! Thanks mate, I`m getting there...taking longer than I ever imagined but now I have it "running" it is hard work getting it looking right!

[AdeV]

Looks much better down you think without the top piece??

WHAT AN IDIOT I AM!! The holder is kept whole so that the line can go around the pulley, up over a pulley on the main clock and back down and tie onto the centre of the top of the holder!!!

Can anyone see a fix around it?

It does look much better without the top piece, even despite the 

All I can think of is: Make the pulley retaining screw longer, so a portion sticks out of the other side of the holder, and make a fancy brass hook which the extended end also screws into, and which (obviously) gives you a hook you can tie your string off to. If you make (or find/buy) a really ornate looking hook, no-one will ever suspect it's hiding a bodge up 

[jgroom]

Looks much better down you think without the top piece??

WHAT AN IDIOT I AM!! The holder is kept whole so that the line can go around the pulley, up over a pulley on the main clock and back down and tie onto the centre of the top of the holder!!!

Can anyone see a fix around it?

Oooops.....  But it does look better.    Maybe a wire bail over the top to tie off to?

Cheers

Jeff

[doubleboost]

Hi
Chris
Some very nice work 
John

[raynerd]

Thanks for the messages and suggestions guys.

I did a little more, decided to make a hook to fix my "issue". Looks ok imo and I think I prefer it to the solid body. Maybe the hook could be a little smaller?



Here is the new pulley layout:


I`m going to have to make my weight narrower than I thought. Adding the extra loop in the pulley setup has thrown the chords nearer so they will clash if I make the master weight much wider than the dia of the master weight pulley. The clock is running now, so once I have the weight that works, I`ll make it from brass solid.



Just for interest sakes, here is the modified back stop on a new bracket. Works much better than the one mounted on the bridge itself. I managed to plug and polish the holes from the previously drilled backstop pawl on the bridge.

[raynerd]

This setup actually works much much better as there must be extra friction around the additional pulleys which means the master weight can be much heavier giving a better impulse. Still running 12 hours on and took very little fiddling this time...   

[saw]

You are doing fine, congrat 

[raynerd]

Guys

This is a bit premature, but I need to start thinking about the case. My woodworking skills aren`t great but I have made a few boxes and such using traditional hand tools, so I can make a few joints etc. That being said, I need to make sure it is do`able with my limited skills!

The huge huge issue with this clock, is that the weight drops just over 6" every 24 hours. Wilding enclosed just the movement with an open bottom and allowed the pendulum and weights to drop throught the bottom:



Likewise Gadgetbuilder has done a similar thing here:



This isn`t my ideal, I just don`t think it looks right with it all hanging out of the bottom. In Woodwards redesigned (d)W5 model, he arranged a case in a sloping angle to allow for the pendulum drop:


Apparently the long side of the case is 43" - considering the weight will be at least starting from 14" from the top, the weight is 6" that only gives around 3 days running...which isn`t too bad and the case looks smart in my opinion....but than perhaps the curves are too difficult for me?

The other option is to make floor standing case like this:



I suppose a lot of it comes down to personal taste but my house is fairly modern, any wooden items are all light wood beach etc so I`d like a case that will suit my home. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as to a suitable case design and construction?

Chris

[BillTodd]

Can anyone see a fix around it?

Can you double up the pulley and take a second loop back up to the clock? (you'll need to add more weigh for the same overal force but the clock should run for longer)

Bill

[edit] huh what happened there? I thought I was responding to last post?? slow internet day I guess.

[NickG]

Looks much better fully enclosed. I like the curved one, the floor standing one isn't bad - better than just enclosing the movement, but personally I'd rather have it like a grandfather type clock and have the weights covered up.

Either way, this last bit it just personal touches, great work Chris 

[raynerd]

Hello,
I`m rubbish at design and I`m going to get this face cut in glass within the next few days. I need to mock it up in CAD for them which is going to take me best part of a day   with me being so useless at it.  Anyway, my current idea is 8" OD and 5" ID. There will also be a 3mm hole between 10-11 o`clock markings and 4-5 o`clock to allow it to be directly screwed to two brass pillars. The marks will be etched at 12, 3, 6, 9 with smallers marking at the rest of the hours and small markings still to split the hours.

I`ve mocked it out in cardboard just get an idea of sizes and would appreciate any feedback. Please bear in mind that it will be totally glass so I think it won`t look quite as big as it currently does...or would it look better a bit smaller?





Any help would be really appreciated before I take the plunge and get it cut.

Chris

EDIT: just had another look. At 8inch dia I think the dial would be wide enough to have the mounting pillars at 12 and 6 o`clock rather than angled. Might look better as well but then again, it might look a bit crouded up at the top with the count wheel.

[saw]

Looking good Cris. 

[Rob.Wilson]

Looks in proportion to me Chris ,,,,,,,,,,,,, gets my vote 


Rob

[DMIOM]

......Anyway, my current idea is 8" OD and 5" ID. There will also be a 3mm hole between 10-11 o`clock markings and 4-5 o`clock to allow it to be directly screwed to two brass pillars......At 8inch dia I think the dial would be wide enough to have the mounting pillars at 12 and 6 o`clock rather than angled. Might look better as well but then again, it might look a bit crouded up at the top with the count wheel.

Chris,

not sure how heavy the glass (and any escutcheon?) may be, but are you sure that just two screws and two pillars will be sufficient? especially if the pillars are slender - puts me in mind of the services punishment drill where you have to hold something like a rifle out in front of you with arms extended straight out horizontally to the front, and no cantilevered/bracing.

Dave

[AdeV]

I like the bar code, very avant garde... you should keep it...

Size looks fine - you can always mock a piece up in perspex if you're really not sure about the final size.

[DaveH]

Looking good Chris

 
DaveH

[raynerd]

Cheers guys.

Dave, yes, I`ve had a good think about this, considering if two pillars is enough. The problem is, there are very few places that you can put the pillars without colliding with other moving parts. The glass is just simple picture frame float glass rim of only 1.5" thickness. I pretty confident that two pillars will be enough. The question is, where to put the pillars.

I could put them at 12 and 6 which would look nice and symetrical or the alternative is around 11 and 5 which in my opinion, in glass with 3mm screws just wont look right. The same thought though is that if I put the screws at 12 and 6, the one at 12 will be just above the count wheel and might make it look cluttered.

I hate making decisions...

This is being cut tomorrow, another 12 hours to decide!!!

[raynerd]

Clock face idea as it stands!



EDIT: Ade, Yes, they are etching the bar code into the glass for me   EDIT2: Apparently this sort or "modern art" will make this piece worth million alone!

[CallMeAl]

I'm enjoying watching this come together.  Nice work!

Al

[raynerd]

Well too late now, the glass went in for cutting earlier, they were going to do it while I wait but sadly I just could not stay so I`ll have to pick it up in a couple of days. I`ve gone with the arrangement above, the holes being drilled for mounting at 12 and 6, we`ll have to see how it looks!

Chris

[sjb]

Hi Chris,

I like the clock, great work. Could you not have a couple of arms come off each pillar to add extra support?

Steve

[raynerd]

Thanks mate, do you really think I`ll need it?

Is the general consensus that my two screws won`t be enough?

[sjb]

Hi Chris,

I think your M3 screws will be fine, I have a set of wall lights in my dining room where the glass is supported by a similar arangement. A small plastic O ring protects the glass from overtightening the nut.

The idea of the arms on the pillars was just in case you found it a bit wibbly wobbly in a side to side way if that makes sense.



Steve

[DMIOM]

.....A small plastic O ring protects the glass from overtightening the nut.......

Actually, if the glass is as thick as Chris says, I think its the M3 that are more likely to fail than the glass

.......The glass is just simple picture frame float glass rim of only 1.5" thickness........

Dave   

[raynerd]

Sorry guys, I missed your two replies! Each sheet wasn`t very heavy, now as rim it will be even lighter but I must admit I am still concerned. Too late now, I pick the glass up tonight so I`m looking forward to mounting it on my clock this evening!! I was very impressed, he told me to bring in a couple of sheets just incase it broke in the process but apparently it went just fine and they have done all three for me!! :-D   I collect them this evening after work so I`ll post photos tonight.

I`ve then got to think about what markings I want on the face. I have considered just simple line divisions but think it might look a bit harsh. Frosted etching would look good and we`ve just had delivery of a laSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSer cutter at work