Camlock D1-4 Adapter plate

[DaveH]

Hi,
Please see the attached drawing.
Wondering the best -(in my case always the easiest ) way to measure the dimension 63.513mm.

Use another spindle nose????

 

DaveH

[Davo J]

I have cleaned up a few D1-4 tapers and the way I do them is to hold them with a chuck or face plate. Doing it this way allows you to take the whole lot out and turn it around to try it on the spindle nose.

I am not sure if you have already done it to your lathe, but you are best to mark the spindle and the chucks or back plate in the position they are machined or run the best before doing this. This way it allows you to remount it in the same position after checking whether the machined taper fits.
Here is a picture of the marks on mine. Just after I bought the lathe I went through and marked the chucks where they ran the best and marked the face plates in the position where they where machines true.


Dave

[DaveH]

Dave,

I have cleaned up a few D1-4 tapers and the way I do them is to hold them with a chuck or face plate. Doing it this way allows you to take the whole lot out and turn it around to try it on the spindle nose.
Dave

Yawellnofine, thats a bluudy sneaky way of doing it.

Good idea, suits me

Thanks

 

DaveH

[John Stevenson]

On the two lathes I use the most I have made dummy spindle noses, quite easy to do as you machine it nearly size, blue up and measure with an existing chuck or faceplate until it fits with just a small gap.

Measure that gap with a feeler and stamp the size on it.

This way when you come to make a new backplate you can try the dummy until it fits with the same gap.

No gap and you know you have gone too far and need a facing cut. The hour or so making the dummy will pay off if you only make two new backplates.
Mine are on A series so not easy to buy although they have the same taper as the D series.

John S.

[Davo J]

I forgot to mention when you machine the taper, machine it so there is about a thou gap between the 2 flat mating faces, the cam locks will pull it up the rest.
A good fitting taper will need a little bump with a rubber hammer to get it off.

Dave

[DaveH]

John,

On the two lathes I use the most I have made dummy spindle noses, quite easy to do as you machine it nearly size, blue up and measure with an existing chuck or faceplate until it fits with just a small gap.
Measure that gap with a feeler and stamp the size on it.
John S.

Another good idea, just to clarify a little bit.- Do I need to have the camlock thingy's fitted to the dummy nose spindle, to pull it in tight?
Or just "lay it in" and measure.


Just in passing I can buy them here albeit expensive (100 BP) but only cast iron and they all have a 50mm dia thro' hole.

I even have one for a 160mm chuck - cast iron and a 50mm hole. -Seems a shame to cut it down

 

DaveH

[John Stevenson]

Mine just have small pilot holes where the bolts go so I can use a transfer punch to whack thru.
Certainly paid me to do this as I now have about 8 different chucks and fittings.

John S.

[Davo J]

You shouldn't need the cam locks in it.
Just make sure if you make a dummy one to make it exactly the same as your lathe one, otherwise they will be too tight or loose on your lathe nose.

Dave

[DaveH]

Dave,

Sorry about this but my one remaining brain cell is working really hard - 

When you offer it up to the lathe spindle nose - complete with face plate, how do you know it is on correctly/straight. And measuring the gap whilst holding it all in place - seems a bit tricky. Or does it all come out in the wash.
Am I seeing things that are not there.

 

DaveH

[Davo J]

It's a bit daunting if you haven't done it before.
I just guess around a thou gap, you can feel it slightly rock on the taper when trying it. The last little bit (around 2-3 thou gap) of the taper I always bring down with emery cloth as it's really easy to over shoot machining.
If you do over shoot, you need to machine the face to bring it back again.

Dave

[DaveH]

John S and Dave,
Ok I'm with it - I just need to give it a go

Thanks for your input and guidance much appreciated
 
DaveH

[Pete.]

I'm planning to make a D1-3 adapter for my dividing head and another to mount chucks to my mill. What I plan to do is use a dial gauge to set the compound at the correct angle by clocking off the lathe spindle taper. Does anyone see any potential problem with that?

[DaveH]

Pete,

I'm planning to make a D1-3 adapter for my dividing head and another to mount chucks to my mill. What I plan to do is use a dial gauge to set the compound at the correct angle by clocking off the lathe spindle taper. Does anyone see any potential problem with that?

No - it is a good away as any,

What I normally do to make sure the taper is spot on, use engineers blue and tiny adjustments of the compound slide untill it looks correct with the blue. Sometimes it come out fine to start with and no adjustment is neccesary.

DaveH

[djc]

...What I plan to do is use a dial gauge to set the compound at the correct angle by clocking off the lathe spindle taper. Does anyone see any potential problem with that?

It's a very short taper that you are clocking off. The taper on D-series spindles is 3" in dia. over 12" length. This works out to 7 degrees, 7 minutes and 30 seconds (in decimal 7.125 degrees, sometimes written as 7 deg 7 1/2 min).

You can use an indicator in the toolpost against a parallel bar between centres. Remember that the compound travel you read off the dial is the hypoteneuse of the triangle! This way you use the full travel of the compund to set the taper.

[Davo J]

Hi,
For mine, I just went off the spindle nose with a 0.0001 DTI as it's ground nice and strait on the taper. I have the taper function on the DRO, but for this I didn't think it was really needed and mine have all turned out fine.

Dave

[Davo J]

Hi Dave,
I was searching for something else and came across an old thread on the D1-4 that I thought you may be interested in
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=45232&highlight=tail+stock

Dave

[DaveH]

Dave,

Thanks for that, ..... a very informative. Lots of good sound advice.
Now I know what to aim for.
I'm going for 1 - 1.5 thou gap ....tending towards .001" (unclamped).
I won't really know for sure until I make it but I have a good starting point.
If .001" is slightly too large, I'll take a tiny amount off the adapters face.
So when it is clamped up the gap is negliable.

Well thats the plan. I think it will work out fine.

 
DaveH