Author Topic: Coke Bottle Steam Engine  (Read 29508 times)

Offline Bernd

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Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« on: December 26, 2008, 04:00:34 PM »
For you readers who aren't familiar with steam engines were probably wondering what a "coke bottle" engine is? These were small engines used in machine shops back in the late 1800's to early 1900's to power things like pumps and small equipment around the shop. The following is a picture of the finished model which is built from a kit that contains castings. The kit comes from P.M. Research Inc. Wellsville, NY. Their web site is www.pmresearchinc.com.



If you have been following the thread in the "How Do I??" section of the forum you know that "releete" and I both have castings for a coke bottle engine. I started mine about 5 years ago the result of those 5 years is in this pic.



The two fly wheels, the smaller one being where the belt would be attached to, and the steam chest cover. Not much progress in 5 years, right? Right. What is going to drive this build is that "releete" and I are going to  :poke: each other to get this engine done since it seems like both of us can't seem to finish a project without starting another. We are going to attempt to help each other with solving the problems of building an engine from a casting. You are welcome to make comments or suggestions on how to solve some of the problems we may run into. Please do not be offended if your suggestion is not used.

It has been suggested to start with the more complicated part, the frame. Since I've already started doing the less complicated parts first, I'm going to stick with finishing them first. The fly wheels by the way are semi-finished. The bore still needs to be enlarged to finished size and the set screw holes added. I'll do that some were along the line of the simpler pieces.

Here's a pic of a few rough castings that still need to be machined. The main base, both covers for the cylinders and the valve. The steam chest cover has already been finished.


I've picked the valve as the next casting to machine. I will take pics of the procedure and post it when I start.


Now, progress could be slow at times so be patient. I'm sure I will be  :poke:  by you guys to keep me on the straight and narrow.

This will be in tune with Mad Modder as I consider this as seeing how one guy modifies raw stock and rough castings into a finished product. :dremel:  :clap:

Until next time,
Bernd
« Last Edit: December 26, 2008, 10:19:02 PM by Bernd »
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bogstandard

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2008, 04:40:45 PM »
Bernd,

Quote
I know this type of project probably doesn't fit the scheme of this site

Can you explain please. C'os if it doesn't fit, what am I doing here?

Bogs

Baldrocker

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2008, 07:56:04 PM »
Quote
castings into a finished product
Please keep the posts coming. I need to see how this is done.
BR

Offline rleete

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2008, 08:25:46 PM »
Bernd,

Quote
I know this type of project probably doesn't fit the scheme of this site

Can you explain please. C'os if it doesn't fit, what am I doing here?

Bogs

Killing time instead of working?   :poke:



Bernd, the name is rleete (last E is silent).  As in Roger.  Divided he ad spells it with a d in the middle, but those Brits are always sneaking in extra letters.  They must like to type.

I have to say that the advice given on machining the base is what I expected, but I'm scared to start.  I've messed up enough parts from stock, and getting another casting could be expensive.
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2008, 10:17:14 PM »
Bernd,

Quote
I know this type of project probably doesn't fit the scheme of this site

Can you explain please. C'os if it doesn't fit, what am I doing here?

Bogs

John

I tried to make a funny there but I guess it backfired. Eric said it's a place for people to show what they have made or "modified". Well, I modified some raw stock and rough castings.

I guess I need to go back and change that statement then. I've been told my one liners get me into trouble. How about now? :wave:

Bernd
« Last Edit: December 26, 2008, 10:20:18 PM by Bernd »
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2008, 10:21:36 PM »
Quote
castings into a finished product
Please keep the posts coming. I need to see how this is done.
BR

BR,

You need to see how it's done and I need to learn how to do it so I can show. Boy am I in trouble. :D

I'll keep it going for as long as it takes.

Bernd
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2008, 10:34:02 PM »

Killing time instead of working?   :poke:

Man, caught red handed.  :D

Quote
Bernd, the name is rleete (last E is silent).  As in Roger.  Divided he ad spells it with a d in the middle, but those Brits are always sneaking in extra letters.  They must like to type.

I think that could be because he stays out in the pubs until late at night. Plus looking at the keyboard the "d" is to the right and below the "e". I just think his problem could be fat finger syndrome too. :)

Quote
I have to say that the advice given on machining the base is what I expected, but I'm scared to start.  I've messed up enough parts from stock, and getting another casting could be expensive.

I think that was very good advice given by Stew. I'm going to use that method when I get to it. I first want to get a bit more maching on castings before I try the frame. I'm going to do the cylinder before I do the frame since it will require the same method as doing the frame. That will give me a bit more experince under my belt, so to speak.

Bernd
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Offline Brass_Machine

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2008, 11:43:23 PM »
Bernd,

Quote
I know this type of project probably doesn't fit the scheme of this site

Can you explain please. C'os if it doesn't fit, what am I doing here?

Bogs

Bad joke on his part!

It fits. It definitely fits.
Science is fun.

We're all mad here. I'm mad. You're mad.

bogstandard

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #8 on: December 27, 2008, 03:36:43 AM »
Don't worry Bernd and Eric,

A bit of bad humour on my side as well, as they say, sarcasm is the lowest form of wit.

Rleete (oh how I hate these weird pseudonyms, it ain't natural). But anyway, back to the project.

You are quite right in practicing a bit on other parts, in fact it might pay you to put a file or grinder to the base, to get rid of any hard cast iron skin first, as it is definitely a softly softly approach required on that bit of machining, and you don't want to be doing any heavy crunchy cutting when getting that first datum. Bernd is OK, as his casting, being of cast bronze, should machine rather easily.
You should be OK on all other bits as they will be held rigid, it is just this first datum bit that you have to be careful of, as it is slightly unstable.
But if you take it steady, there is no need to be scared of it, I am sure it will be a massive anti climax when it skims off perfectly first time, and you will have an ear to ear grin, punching the air in victory. Don't worry, I do that, and the dog and cat think I have gone loopy. Thank goodness no one else can see it.

John

Offline rleete

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2008, 09:29:41 AM »
Rleete (oh how I hate these weird pseudonyms, it ain't natural).

But, but, but...  It's my name!

Being a bit of a forum **** (you should see my bookmarks), I got tired of trying to remember a dozen different names.  So, It is a contraction of Roger Leete.  BTW, Leete is a fairly common Dutch last name, but my heritage is English; grandma was a Whistler, her uncle was the painter.  It used to be R_Leete on another forum, and people complained it was too weird to type, so this is somewhat simplified.  Rog or Roger, or "hey you" are all acceptable.   :wave:

If you do a Google search on rleete, you will find hundreds of hits, mostly from forum posting.  Oh, and a bunch from my old defunct website; the Tiger tank project gathered worldwide attention.  I also moderate a political "discussion" forum (you ain't seen flame wars like that), and I'm on several car forums, game forums, machining and welding forums, etc.  There are at least a dozen I frequent, more that I hit occasionally.


Anyway, back on topic.  I took the belt/disc sander to the bottom, held in a crappy vise I had machined square at work.  I used the main bearing bosses as the rough datum, and just took enough off to remove the casting line on the bottom.  It isn't done, but in now sits reasonably straight/vertical.  Still needs to be skimmed off, and there's about .04" gap on each side.  Ought to be enough to get it good and square.  Both the rounded sides have been ground with the  :dremel: , and cleaned up nicely.  Off to the in-laws for a second Christmas, so no more machining today.
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bogstandard

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #10 on: December 27, 2008, 09:53:43 AM »
Rog,

That is a lot more civilised, seems a little more personal now.

Just take it steady and all will turn out OK.

John

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #11 on: December 27, 2008, 08:29:48 PM »
Well let's start this project with the milling of the slide valve. As I said, I'm going to try to do the majority of the work on the Sherline lathe/mill. I got this piece of equipment at an auction. It came with many tools and the column to turn the lathe into a mill. It's not the standard lathe and mill but a conversion piece that will turn the lathe into a mill.

Here's the lathe.


And here's the lathe converted to a mill. I have added a sacrificial aluminum table. It has 1/4-20 threaded holes so you can bolt things down. It also has a fence on the back to place your part squarely against. The rough slide valve is sitting next to a AA battery for size comparison.


Here is a close up of the valve mounted against the fence with a finger strap. The bottom of the part was filed to get rid of the flash from the casting process. There wasn't very much of it. These casting are very clean. I also filed the flash off the sides so I could be confident that the part was close to square. I then milled the three sides to just clean up the taper of the casting. Now before anybody gets upset and tells me you shouldn't use a drill chuck to mill with and that it will fall out of the taper, I'll explain. The drill chuck is held in the taper spindle with a draw rod. If anybody is interested in seeing the draw rod let me know and I'll show a pic of it. Also the Sherline has a 0 taper spindle.


Here's a close up were you can see the aluminum table with the back fence. The part has been milled on three sides. The shiny finish is the milled off part.


This one's for Bogs. He always says that "You can make small parts in a big machine, but you can't make big parts in a small machine." Here is the part sitting on the LARGE vise. Bog's how do you expect someone to hold such a small part in that big vise?


Very simple. You make yourself a small table like this to hold the small parts in a large vise. How'd I do Bog's?


Ok enough of that big machine. Back to the small one. I have now mounted the vise and the part which has some what square sides in the small vise. I’m ready to fly cut the bottom of the valve smooth and flat. The round part with the slots is the Sherline faceplate. A cutter attached to it to makes it into a fly cutter. Works very nice. You just have to remember to turn the speed of the spindle down so the machine doesn't dance all over the table. Ask me how I know.


Again I took just a skim cut. You can see a bit of shiny surface and a matt finish surface. Looks pretty good for being square.


Once I got the bottom surface all cleaned up I marked a line in about .050". The base has a dimension of .531" square. That's the square you see marked out on the piece.


I've milled the first side that is against the solid jaw to the marked line. That's not the line you see, it's the burr the cutter raised on the side. Then I went around the part to the opposite side and milled to the .531" dimension given on the print. Then the other two sides were done.


With all four sides on the bottom of the valve square, I finished milled the top part of the valve sides. The top part will have two slots put in. One for an adjustment nut and the other for the valve rod. This will become clearer when the parts are assembled later.


Here's a little trick I learned were I worked. In order to find when the mill touches the side of the work without putting a divot in the work from the spinning cutter, use a piece of paper. Mic the paper so you know the size. Hold between two fingers very lightly and bring the cutter into the work slowly. When the cutter pulls the paper out of your hand you know you close to with in the papers thickness. Just remember to let go.


And here we have the semi finished part next to the rough casting. Rough on the left, semi finished on the right.


Well that's it for now. Next time I hope to finish up by milling in the two slots on top and the pocket in the bottom.
Here's a drawing of the valve to help you visualize what it looks like for those who are not familiar with steam engines.


Until next time,
Bernd
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bogstandard

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #12 on: December 27, 2008, 08:39:28 PM »
Bernd,

I thought you said that was a small part. It is huge. 1/8" x 1/8" is starting to get small, anything above that are just normal production sizes.

Anyway, you seem to have got it cracked.

Bogs

Baldrocker

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2008, 01:06:01 AM »
Way to go Bernd, keep em coming.javascript:void(0);
BR


Baldrocker

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #14 on: December 28, 2008, 01:10:07 AM »
Quote
You need to see how it's done and I need to learn how to do it so I can show. Boy am I in trouble
Yeah but if I upstuff guess who gets the blame  :)

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #15 on: December 28, 2008, 04:43:04 AM »
Nice one Bernd

 :thumbup:

I've got the slide valves to mill on my Loco so I'm watching with interest.

When you come to the steam ports I alway have a couple of trial runs with scrap material, just to check the method out, then if you've got it wrong what the hell its only scrap you scapped off. :headbang:

Have

Fun

 :wave:

Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline kellswaterri

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #16 on: December 28, 2008, 06:03:32 AM »
Excellent work Bernd...I too have the long bed Sherline lathe and although I have not used it on gun metal yet your
pictures show that clearly it is very capable...I love your use of the Face plate as a fly cutting tool... keep up the good work.
All the best for now,
                           John.

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #17 on: December 28, 2008, 09:14:34 PM »
It's not the chuck pulling out of the taper that's the problem Bernd, it's the CUTTER tramming out of the chuck, But OK, carry on, It just gets a BIT messy when it happens. It's never done it on me cos I don't go there, but I've SEEN it happen and once you've seen it, it makes you think. In the same vein, you only have to see a grinding wheel burst ONCE.  :thumbup:

   Regards   Ian.

That cutter is only 3/16" in dia. I've snapped off a few before. So not big deal. Now your going to tell me that it comes out like a bullet. Yes I know that too. Seen 'em and done that. Would i do that with a 1/4" end mill, hell no. It's now getting to big and that will realy hurt if you get hit.

I've seen and heard grinding wheels of 12" and more in dia. let loose. I've also heard a gear cutter of 24" in dia. with hardened HSS blades, approx. 2 dozen, in a cutter let loose. Sounds like a machine gun. All you do is duck and hope you don't get hit.

I've spent over 30 years in a machine shop and I've seen some large pieces, cutters, grinding wheels and such let loose. So you don't need to preach to the choir.  :)

Bernd
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #18 on: December 28, 2008, 09:17:34 PM »
Nice one Bernd

 :thumbup:

I've got the slide valves to mill on my Loco so I'm watching with interest.

When you come to the steam ports I alway have a couple of trial runs with scrap material, just to check the method out, then if you've got it wrong what the hell its only scrap you scapped off. :headbang:

Have

Fun

 :wave:

Stew

Boy now I'm getting a bit nervous with all you guys watching over my shoulder.  :D

But keep watching I may be able to show you something, I hope.  :lol:

Bernd
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #19 on: December 28, 2008, 09:23:56 PM »
Excellent work Bernd...I too have the long bed Sherline lathe and although I have not used it on gun metal yet your
pictures show that clearly it is very capable...I love your use of the Face plate as a fly cutting tool... keep up the good work.
All the best for now,
                           John.

John,

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do that. You just have to take small cuts. I probably didn't take any more off the .010" (.25mm) at a time.

I can't take credit for the fly cutter. That idea came from Rudy Kouhoupt. He had a section in Home Shop Machinist called the Micro Machinist. He also has a several books out published by Village Press. I have several of them with his projects in them. Nice books if you own a small machine such as this. Very capable too.

Bernd
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Offline rleete

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #20 on: December 28, 2008, 10:32:48 PM »
I've spent over 30 years in a machine shop and I've seen some large pieces, cutters, grinding wheels and such let loose.

We have a large surface grinder at work.  Yakamoto or somesuch.  Anyway, it uses a very large wheel.  Something like 24" diameter, about 4 inches wide.  I wasn't there when it happened, but the mangled end shield and the repair patch in the wall beyond it is testament to the force of the wheel coming apart at speed.  The operator tells me it sounded like a cannon, and he took weeks to get over it.

The end shield is 1/8" sheet steel, and the wheel went through it like a fist into foil.  But, it slowed the chunk down enough that it didn't get beyond the first layer of wall (and steel studs) beyond it.

Even more common is the tool coming up.  We grind optical panels, often quite thin (.040), and up to 3' x 4' in size.  They are solid nickel.  So, to hold them we use vacuum chucks.  Sometimes the seal lets go, and shoots the tool off the end.  It makes a hell of a racket, but so far no one has been hurt.
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2008, 04:51:03 PM »
The saga of machining the valve continues. :dremel:

 If the wife asks "What did you do today beside goof off". Don't tell her anything or I'll get a :wack:

Ok lets begin with the pic below. I put layout dye on the part. Determined the dimensions needed, 1/4" in from the side, and scribed the lines.


Next I just touched the top of the part with the cutter. This can be an approximate setting when touching the part. In other words when you hear the cutter touch or see dust chips flying out you know you close enough. Mounted my DRO (dro indicator) and fed the end mill down 1/16". I then visually milled to the scribed line. No need to be with in thousands of an inch, close works here. I guess I'll find out later if close works when assembled. All this pocket does is direct the steam to the proper port. All the can happen is that the cavity is to big or to small. If to big a bit of silver solder and a re-mill. If to small just a re-mill to make bigger.


And here we are. Pocket done and to with in .002" to deep. Close enough.


Next I turned the part over and prepared to mill the slots. First slot is 1/8" wide and up from the bottom 5/32". Here's how I did it. Remember the paper trick I showed earlier? Well here I'm using it again. Works better than edge finder on small machines and work. Touch the side of the part. Half the cutter plus half the part and in the center of the part you are.


Now for the depth setting. It's dimensioned from the bottom. Same procedure as for the sides. Paper, lower till cutter pulls paper.


Mount DRO and bring head up 5/32" and cut slot.


Wal la, slot cut.


Same procedure for the other slot. Touch the solid jaw. Move 1/2 cutter dia. minus half of .531. Mill slot.


Same for depth again. Only this time move 3/32" up. Now I'm beginning to wonder if the cutter will break through to the pocket I milled earlier. Oh, well only one way to find out, cut.


Oh wow, it didn't break through. But I did screw up on the part. I tried to mill the slot with a 3/16" cutter in one pass. That was a no no. The machine chattered and danced. So I decided to take several small cuts. That worked, but something had moved. The cutter didn't look like it was on the center of the slot I had just cut. Closer look, sure enough it had moved. So I moved the table a bit to compensate and began milling again. When I was down to the depth of were I had originally started out I noticed I had a nice step in the side of the slot. Oh well nothing left to do but clean it up and make the next part fit the slot.
More on this at the end. Yes, the slot is also deeper than the first one. That's what the print calls for.


Here is the valve all done. Well I need to debur the sharp edges. The larger slot should be 3/16" or .1875. It turned out to be .204" wide. Next time I'm doing it different. I'll use a smaller cutter and then go bad and widen the slot. Now all I need to do is make the "valve nut" that goes in that slot close to .204". I may even go with .188" and see what happens.


So that's it for the valve. Now I'm going to convert the mill back to a lathe and turn the top and bottom cylinder covers. But that won't be until next time. And who knows when that will be. If the wife lets me live a couple more weeks I might have something by next weekend.

Until next time,
Bernd
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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #22 on: December 30, 2008, 01:57:10 AM »
Hi Bernd

Nice job  :thumbup:

When your doing work for your own pleasure, and just making one, its easy to make parts fit each other if you don't quite get it right, and you get a great sence of satisfaction.

I've found that when milling a closed pocket like the cavity in your slide valve, a drill put into the corners first, tends to stop the cutter pulling into the corner. Also on a slide valve the width is only critical in one direction.

Have fun
 :wave:
Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #23 on: December 30, 2008, 04:18:01 AM »
Hi Bernd

The top and bottom covers can be a bit tricky  :zap: to hold, also the critical features for these parts is the small boss that stands out to locate in the cylinder, and the concentricity of this boss with the guide hole for the piston rod, if its not concentric the piston rod will bind. I hope you don't mind me suggesting waiting until you've got your cylinder bored and making this boss to fit. I've just finished my cylinder covers for my Loco:- I'll be posting the photos soon.

Have fun

 :wave:
Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
 :wave:

Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #24 on: December 30, 2008, 03:56:05 PM »
Hi Bernd

Nice job  :thumbup:

When your doing work for your own pleasure, and just making one, its easy to make parts fit each other if you don't quite get it right, and you get a great sence of satisfaction.

I've found that when milling a closed pocket like the cavity in your slide valve, a drill put into the corners first, tends to stop the cutter pulling into the corner. Also on a slide valve the width is only critical in one direction.

Have fun
 :wave:
Stew

Thanks Stew.

Using that small of an end mill - 1/8" dia. - was no trouble in the corners. If this had been a bigger piece I would have done that. I have built an engine with one of these types of valves in it and know what I'm up against.

My problem with this slide valve is I was in a hurry to get it done. Big mistake. Need to take more time to do my projects. That's one thing I'm trying to controll, my impatients in doing something.

Quote
The top and bottom covers can be a bit tricky   to hold, also the critical features for these parts is the small boss that stands out to locate in the cylinder, and the concentricity of this boss with the guide hole for the piston rod, if its not concentric the piston rod will bind. I hope you don't mind me suggesting waiting until you've got your cylinder bored and making this boss to fit.

Don't mind a bit. I know the procedures but somebody else reading this may not. :)

I actually got a bit of patients. I looked at the print and figured I need to make some close fits so I'll just rough everything out. Then do the cylinder and finally turn the covers to fit the cylinder. I believe they called this procedure were I worked "Methods". Steps to make a part from begining to end.

Bernd
« Last Edit: December 30, 2008, 04:06:45 PM by Bernd »
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #25 on: January 22, 2009, 04:42:18 PM »
Ok, back on track with the Coke Bottle engine.

What I'm doing here is roughing out the parts. Meaning I'm going to skim cut to clean up as much as I can without going right to size. That will be done later as the parts are put together for a trial fit.

The first pic shows how I chucked up the rough casting for the part known as the "inside head" this part mounts between the frame and the cylinder assembly. I used two 1/4" HSS tool bits as parallels and the tailstock to push against the part to ensure I was as close to square as possible. After the chuck was tightened the two pieces of HSS tool stock was removed. Why? Saftey reasons. You don't want them flying out while maching and hit you in the face. That would ruin your day of fun machining.


Then I just cleaned up the diameter and shoulder. No set dimension here. Just enough to get to a nice clean surface. This will allow me to turn the part and insure it will be square for the next operation.


The part has been turned and chucked on the surface I just turned. Now I'm going to face and turn the OD of the part. Again to just clean the surface.


And there is the rough turned part. All the diameters and shoulders are now square to each other making the machining to finish size easier and more accurate.


Next I've decided to do the other cylinder cover.

Pics to come soon.

Bernd
Route of the Black Diamonds

Offline old-biker-uk

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #26 on: January 22, 2009, 06:17:24 PM »
Came across this while looking for something else & thought it might be of interest to bottle engine builders.

I also have (somewhere in the workshop) drawings I made from a full size engine that resided in the museum where I used to work, will see if I can find them - might even encourage me to start the model I made them for x years ago.
Mark
What you say and what people hear are not always the same thing.

Offline rleete

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #27 on: January 22, 2009, 06:40:02 PM »
Bernd, how did you find the casting for machinability?  I've heard about the hard surface sometimes encountered on the surface of castings, but these appear to have cleaned up nicely.  How would you compare skimming the casting to a piece of brass?
Creating scrap, one part at a time

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #28 on: January 22, 2009, 07:51:39 PM »
Brass would be more preferable to this bronze.

I've noticed if I take a heavier cut it cuts better. If I skim just the surface it's harder. Also having sharp tooling helps a lot.

Hope that answers you questions?

Bernd
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #29 on: January 22, 2009, 07:54:52 PM »
Mark,

Nice wood cut print. I like the engine. It's got a govenor, and water pump on it, really neat. :thumbup:

Prints would be nice. Looks like a bit of a job though making prints.

Bernd
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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #30 on: January 23, 2009, 01:52:35 AM »
Ho what a good looking engine  :thumbup: this is the first time I've seen what a coke bottle engine looks like, come on Bernd you,ve just got to complete yours.

Cheers

Stew
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Location:- Crewe Cheshire

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #31 on: January 23, 2009, 09:15:27 AM »
Ho what a good looking engine  :thumbup: this is the first time I've seen what a coke bottle engine looks like, come on Bernd you,ve just got to complete yours.

Cheers

Stew

Thanks Stew.

It'll take a bit to get there. Have house projects that are ahead of the fun toy stuff, but will keep pecking away on the engine and document it here. :dremel:

Thanks for the  :poke: for I need that to keep the project going.  :D

And the rest of you don't go :poke: me or I'll be to sore to finish the project.  :D

                                           :mmr:

Bernd
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Offline SPiN Racing

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #32 on: January 23, 2009, 02:27:10 PM »
Very cool...

Makes me want to get one... to add to my list of projects LOL
SPiN Racing

Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #33 on: January 26, 2009, 07:11:20 PM »
I was digging in the dark places of my second disk drive and found some images I didn't even know I had. They are of the first machining I did on the coke bottle engine way back when. I know how much you guys like pics so here are 7 more pics. I think they are self explanatory so won't add any extra words. :)















Questions?

Bernd
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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #34 on: January 27, 2009, 03:18:36 AM »
Nice one Bernd

Looks like you got more done than we've given you credit for. But I'll still give you a  :poke: from time to time

Cheers
 :wave:

Stew
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Offline Bernd

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #35 on: January 27, 2009, 01:15:32 PM »
Stew,

The cover and flywheels were done back in 2003. Six years ago. :bugeye: Just thought I'd add them to the build.

Bernd
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Offline sbwhart

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Re: Coke Bottle Steam Engine
« Reply #36 on: January 27, 2009, 01:45:51 PM »
Thats OK Bernd

There's no rush  :lol:

Cheers
 :ddb: :ddb:
 
:wave:


Stew
A little bit of clearance never got in the road
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Location:- Crewe Cheshire