Author Topic: Chuck jaws  (Read 3826 times)

Offline raynerd

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Chuck jaws
« on: August 14, 2011, 07:34:19 PM »
I have a problem with my 3 jaw chuck in that I find that it is not holding the work right to the front of the chuck jaws. This hasn`t been a problem for larger rigid stock, but I was trying to turn a small steel 1/32" pin  on the top of a 3/32" piece of bar stock and although I only had about 5mm sticking out of the chuck, an extra 4-5mm inside the front of the chuck was not being held and it was flexing. In the past I`ve turned a tube and slit the top (split collet?) to hold small work and this holds it rigid from the front of the jaws but not sure if it is holding it true enough.

I presume this isn`t normal and was wondering if anyone else has experienced similar and if there is anything I can do?

Chris

Offline Dean W

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Re: Chuck jaws
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2011, 09:13:53 PM »
No, it's not "normal", Chris, but it is not uncommon.  How old is your three jaw?  If it has seen a lot of use the
jaws can wear, sometimes at the ends, and sometimes the wear is in the slots in the jaws where they run in
and out in the chuck body.  I have a few chucks.  One is a rather low cost import and after just a couple of years
of use it shows such wear. 

Hopefully it is just some wear on the gripping surface of the jaws themselves.  In that case, you can grind them
true, but that practice does remove enough material that the jaws may not quite meet in the middle.  That too,
can be ground to make the jaws meet, but you are getting into a bit of work there.  If the sliding part of the jaws
are worn, it means the jaws are "tipping" outward when you tighten them on a piece of stock. 

Dean
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Offline dvbydt

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Re: Chuck jaws
« Reply #2 on: August 15, 2011, 04:42:07 AM »
Yes, what Dean said. But all 3 jaw chucks will show a bit of the "tri-lobal" effect on small diameters, the work flexes between each jaw. A split bush will get you out of trouble sometimes, but the answer is a proper collet, it is the only way to resolve it. On short items you may need to support the collet behind the work so that the collet does not close as a taper or you are in trouble again. How you fit a collet depens on your  lathe. Are collets available? Would MT fit the spindle or do you need an ER sytem? Since you are into clockmaking you realy need a full range of small collets.

Ian

Offline Pete.

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Re: Chuck jaws
« Reply #3 on: August 15, 2011, 05:36:05 AM »
I have ER15 collet chuck fitted to a threaded Morse taper arbor for holding small diameters true in my lathe. This would get around your problem.